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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-08-2010, 08:56 PM   #1 (permalink)
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It's finally running after a year!

Hello everybody. I haven't been on here for a while and some of you just might remember me as the one with the fuel filter issue. The car was dead for a year. I got tired of it sitting in my driveway and tried to fix a few issues. Finally out of desperation I called up one of my local auto shops and they towed it for free. It was diagnosed that it had very low fuel pressure as a result from a failing fuel pump and relay and a clogged up fuel filter. $600 later I have a new fuel pump and relay and fresh fluids everywhere but they couldn't resolve the fuel filter issue. They said it was to tight on there. I attempted this summer to remove it myself but it was impossible.

Anyway now that the car runs and I drove it I had a quite interesting experience on the way home. Some things I noticed that were really bugging the hell out of me were the uber tall shifter, worn out front right control arm that made a lot of noise, and a gutless engine with like no torque or throttle response whatsoever (probably a fuel filter issue again).

First things first how the hell am I supposed to change the fuel filter on this thing? It's STUCK on there and wont come off. Can I just cut it off and make my own unit with hoses and what not? It also has rather new spark plugs but is it worth it to buy new wires and maybe even a distributor? How big of a challenge is it to install a new distributor? Is the control arm something I can do on my own on a Sunday, or is it absolutely necessary to get it done with special tools at the shop? What can I do with the shifter. It works fine just the long throws really bother me.

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Old 01-09-2010, 11:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If by control arm you are talking about the lower portion of the suspension assembly of which the anti-sway bar is fixed, yes you can do it on your own with limited tools.

By memory you are going to need a 22mm key to get the large bolt that holds the arm to the underbody, 17 mm socket to remove the ball joint. A small floor jack to lift the strut assembly to pry off the ball-joint from the assembly (although not necessary it helps a lot) Then I believe its a 19 mm socket to remove the sway bar bolt.

To be able to get the control arm off you need to push the sway bar forwards to slide the table out from where it is attached to the uni-body. This is not that simple but not impossible.

Now pay attention DO NOT try and remove the sway bar bushing bolts. The way that bracket is attached is with bolts that are inaccessible welded inside of the little "table" Instead remove the four 17mm bolts that hold that little table to the uni-body of the car. If you attempt to remove them and the bolt breaks off in the table you've given yourself an almost impossible fix to do. (if you cant find another one you need to cut the table open, re-weld the bolts and weld it shit again. If you do it the way I mentioned you do not risk damaging those bolts.

for a reference see this picture. You can see that when I did my transmission I dropped the whole thing not even unbolting it because it was all in the way. So you see what I'm talking about. Take the whole table down and then hammer the sway bar out of the table. Use lots of penetrating lube and let it sit and if it doesn't want to come out because the bushing sleeve is rusted heat it.



As for the fuel filter, obviously you cannot heat it so the best route is to spray a good penetrating lube on it for a couple of days time (PB blast is the best) and then attempt to remove it. The hardest challenge your going to have is removing the bottom bolt.

BUT if for some reason you still cannot remove it you can consider cutting the fuel line coming to the filter at about 3 inches down to conserve a length of tube to work with later. What I would do is use a plumbing tube cutter to cut the fuel line nicely and remove the filter this way. Dunk it in water and try and get all the fuel out, you obviously do not want it to explode on you when you attempt to heat the bottom bolt to remove it (because your going to need to reuse it) Another option is to just put it outside in some kind of metal container and light it on fire to get rid of the excess gas lol depends how daring you are. But to get back to the point, once you've removed all the gas you stick it in a bench vise, heat it, use penetrating lube and then try and remove it with a large key, tap the key with a hammer to "shock" it to come loose so you avoid stripping it.

Then once you have it out you need to go to a hardware store and buy a brass plumbing compression fitting to re-assemble your line.

Voila done.





post a pic of your shifter with no boot.
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Last edited by mk2-1jz; 01-09-2010 at 11:16 AM.
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