What should I do??

[lukaskliz]

Hi everyone,
I just bought a 1990 Camry V6 with 55k miles on it. The reason the miles are so low is because it has not been driven for the last 10 years (only 100 miles). What maintenance do I need to perform to make sure everything runs well for another 100k? Thanks.

[mk2-1jz]

Originally Posted by lukaskliz

Hi everyone,
I just bought a 1990 Camry V6 with 55k miles on it. The reason the miles are so low is because it has not been driven for the last 10 years (only 100 miles). What maintenance do I need to perform to make sure everything runs well for another 100k? Thanks.

Do not use the car before you change:

- The oil and filter
- Transmission and trasaxle fluid
- brake fluid at all 4 wheels (water contamination)
- flush the fuel line with injector cleaner
- timing belt and water pump
- while your doing that change the bottom crank shaft seal and the cam seal you do not want to have to open this up again for nothing.
- power steering fluid (use dextron II transmission fluid)


10 years of not being used consistently can take a LARGE toll on a car. ALL the fluids must be flushed and anything rubber that is accessible on the motor should be changed. Rubber seals dry out over time if they are not lubricated by the passing fluids.

[lukaskliz]

Thanks.

Originally Posted by mk2-1jz

Do not use the car before you change:

- The oil and filter
- Transmission and trasaxle fluid
- brake fluid at all 4 wheels (water contamination)
- flush the fuel line with injector cleaner
- timing belt and water pump
- while your doing that change the bottom crank shaft seal and the cam seal you do not want to have to open this up again for nothing.
- power steering fluid (use dextron II transmission fluid)


10 years of not being used consistently can take a LARGE toll on a car. ALL the fluids must be flushed and anything rubber that is accessible on the motor should be changed. Rubber seals dry out over time if they are not lubricated by the passing fluids.

[zythr]

Also, the tires, and check/adjust the valve clearance, even though it is not due to 60,000. Also check the undercarriage if you have not done so, for any rust. Before you start the car to change the oil, remove the valve cover and add some, because when you start it up, if you have not done so already, you're going to have metal contacting metal for those first few seconds, due to lack of lubrication for so long

[lukaskliz]

Thanks, looks like I have a lot of things to do.

Originally Posted by zythr

Also, the tires, and check/adjust the valve clearance, even though it is not due to 60,000. Also check the undercarriage if you have not done so, for any rust. Before you start the car to change the oil, remove the valve cover and add some, because when you start it up, if you have not done so already, you're going to have metal contacting metal for those first few seconds, due to lack of lubrication for so long

[Ten_and_Two]

My guess removing the valve covers may be a bit of a pain, at least the rear one. Could one just remove the coil wire and turn the engine over for a bit to get the engine well lubricated? Or would that also cause damage?

Congrats on the purchase, my sister bought a 89 v6 with 24,000 original miles on it about two years ago, hell of a car!

[zythr]

Originally Posted by lukaskliz

Thanks, looks like I have a lot of things to do.

You're welcome. I meant to also add, check the Cv boots to make sure they're not cracked.

[zythr]

Originally Posted by Ten_and_Two

My guess removing the valve covers may be a bit of a pain, at least the rear one. Could one just remove the coil wire and turn the engine over for a bit to get the engine well lubricated? Or would that also cause damage?

Congrats on the purchase, my sister bought a 89 v6 with 24,000 original miles on it about two years ago, hell of a car!

One could, as long as the Interior side walls of the engine have lubrication especially the top part. Remember this car has sat a long time, so any lubrication that was there has drained/fallen to the bottom.

[DAT RICE]

uh how about the coolant? Shouldn't one totally flush the coolant out the engine and rad. Also flush the heater block too, so it doesn't fail soon. Spray rubber lubrication on all bushings. Good luck!

[lukaskliz]

Thanks again! The CV boots were cracked and do need to be replaced. I had all the fluids flushed, belts changed, and since the car was already started before I bought it there was no need for removing the valve cover and lube it. On a good note it passed emissions here in California (not easy to do for older and even some newer cars) with everything well below the average emissions of cars on the road here. I think she will last a good while...

Originally Posted by zythr

You're welcome. I meant to also add, check the Cv boots to make sure they're not cracked.

[zythr]

You're welcome. Glad it's running well

[lukaskliz]

[DAT RICE]

Wow! Your car is immaculate! Even the engine bay! Wish my car wasn't subjected to these harsh conditions in the northeast.

[AnimatedMechanic]

That thing is perfect!! I just got one with 81000 miles on it. It's mint, but not as much as yours. I'll post pics if I have the chance.

[mk2-1jz]

Originally Posted by Ten_and_Two

My guess removing the valve covers may be a bit of a pain, at least the rear one. Could one just remove the coil wire and turn the engine over for a bit to get the engine well lubricated? Or would that also cause damage?

Congrats on the purchase, my sister bought a 89 v6 with 24,000 original miles on it about two years ago, hell of a car!

To all who said take off the valve cover. WHY, when you change your oil where do you think you put it?? It goes right into the valve cover and trickles all the way into the pan.

Even if its a v6 you just need to prime it. Pull the ECU fuse and let the engine turn out a few times to make the pump build some pressure. Put the fuse back in and go.