(90 camry) Brake/Pads/Caliper/Rotor Recommendations? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-20-2010, 05:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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(90 camry) Brake/Pads/Caliper/Rotor Recommendations?

I plan on replacing the rotors and brake pads at the minimum for the front, I just want improved braking and this will be my first time replacing these components. Does anyone have a recommendation of what kind of rotors/pads that I should get and if I should replace the calipers? My budget is about $100 per wheel (not sure if I need to do anything for the back wheels?) Are BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0832221 these from rock auto any good?
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i suggest you get brembo blanks from tirerack.com last time i ordered then it was 36$/each side.. so not so bad and as for pads i got ebc green stuff.. which stops really good... but you can try regular stuff.. hawks is good also..

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...8&autoModClar=

won't cost you more than 100$/wheel... wouldn't have to rebuild your caliper if they're not stuck open IE brake drag.
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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spend the money to get the better quality oem replacement rotors if you dont go brembo but I do second brembos. If you go cheap cheap your going to change your discs twice as often.

rebuild your calipers with a new seal kit. Takes about 15 minutes each caliper if you have the technique and a little air compression with a custom fitting to force the piston out. You can get that kit on rockauto for under 10$ But your going to need to get a metric brake fitting and make your piston re-tractor tool. If you go this route let me know I can tell you how to make it.

Heat the bleeder nipple before you try removing it. This is your first time so listen up to save a LOT of heartache and money.

HEAT the brake bleeder nipple EVERY time you want to remove it because its made of brass and breaks really easily if not broken loose. Heat it until its red and spray PB blast or some kind of penetrating lubricant to try and shock it to come loose. COLD water works well too. Do this a few times. If you are unsure its going to come off dont force it because if it breaks your going to need to replace the caliper.

I have found that in dire cases where it just wont move without breaking an impact gun works perfectly. Reduce it down to an 8mm socket and remove it that way.

tip** spray PB plast on all parts you want to remove and let it sit for 30 minutes before starting. Lightly GREASE the slider pins for the calipers with a high temp grease before reassembling. Put a dab of grease on all bolt threads to prevent corrosion. If your car has ABS open the bleeder nipple before trying to retract the caliper.
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks I think I will get the brembos, do I need to do anything with the rear ones?
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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the rear are drums. Take off the drum and it may be rusted on there so if it doesnt come off get a torch and heat the shit out of 1 small spot close to the hub to break it loose. A big hammer helps too. OR the shoes are holding the drum in place. Remove rubber cap from drum face, use a flat head screw driver to loosen the automatic tensioner.


Once its off check for 2 things.

1) Check to see if there is any brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinder. Look for humid spots behind the brake linings. If there is leaking fluid replace the wheel cylinder. If all is well continue on to step 2.

2) Check the shoe lining thickness, if they are wearing thin replace them. You will have to turn down the adjuster to fit the drum back in place. Dont install the wheels yet. Start the car LEAVE it in park, pump the brakes until the pedal gets stiff. Now this should automatically adjust the rear shoe tension. When you go back to the drum try and spin it, if it has a little bit of resistance it is good if it spins free go to step 3.

step 3

Remove rubber cap on drum face, spin the drum hole to about 1 oclock if my memory serves, stick a flat head screw driver into the hole and turn the brake adjuster gear until there is light resistance on the drum (it does not spin freely) Again if memory serves you spin the gear down on the passenger side and up on the drivers side. You will hear "click, click" and a springy sound when you do this which indicates you are adding tension.
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks will do!
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