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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-18-2010, 03:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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88 starting problems

I recently bought an 88 Camry for 600 bucks. The guy told me to press the gas couple of time before putting it into gear so it doesn't die, I'm guessing its the IAC valve. There is no problem cold starting the car I just need to tap the gas the a couple of time before driving and it would run smoothly after that. When I stopped for gas the other day and tried to start the car after, it wouldn't start until I waited for 4 mins and turned the car on 3 times without trying to start the car. I been doing this for past two days and a day later I tried starting the car and it wouldn't even turn over. I can hear the fan, some weird grinding, and clicking when I tried to start the car. The car has 108,000 miles left so, it still has a lot more lives to go. Anyone know what I should do?
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The not starting is probably not related to the previous problem.

Is your engine in-line 4 or V-6?

Quote:
I can hear the fan, some weird grinding, and clicking when I tried to start the car.
can you elaborate on "weird grinding"? High pitched? fast? slow? There was a design flaw on some starters where the starter pinion won't engage the flywheel and it makes an awful metal on metal-on-metal racket (high-pitched, fast noise).

do you hear more than one click, or a single-click as soon as you turn the key?

Is the fan running with the key in the "on" position, even when the engine is cold? That shouldn't happen.

Last edited by mattjm; 02-18-2010 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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"do you hear more than one click, or a single-click as soon as you turn the key?"

mattjm has brought up a key question here. 1 click and the starter not cranking usually indicates the common starter solenoid contacts problem. If so, do a search for "starter contacts" and read up on it's cause and cures. Multiple rapid clicks usually indicates a weak battery, or corroded connections at either the battery or the starter. A weak battery could be caused by a bad battery itself, an alternator that isn't recharging the battery properly, or even a loose alternator belt.

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Old 02-18-2010, 10:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I think the grinding noise is the fan, but I'm sure its a one click. Its a V-6.
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkhmer View Post
I think the grinding noise is the fan, but I'm sure its a one click. Its a V-6.
The 1 click usually indicates worn out starter solenoid contacts. An easy way to varify this is the next time it doesn't start go under the hood and give the solenoid a good tap with a hammer or a wrench. If the starter now turns, you have identified the worn starter solenoid contacts problem. If that's the case, do a search on this forum for "starter contacts" and read up on the cause and it's cures.

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Old 02-19-2010, 12:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkhmer View Post
I recently bought an 88 Camry for 600 bucks. The guy told me to press the gas couple of time before putting it into gear so it doesn't die, I'm guessing its the IAC valve. There is no problem cold starting the car I just need to tap the gas the a couple of time before driving and it would run smoothly after that. When I stopped for gas the other day and tried to start the car after, it wouldn't start until I waited for 4 mins and turned the car on 3 times without trying to start the car. I been doing this for past two days and a day later I tried starting the car and it wouldn't even turn over. I can hear the fan, some weird grinding, and clicking when I tried to start the car. The car has 108,000 miles left so, it still has a lot more lives to go. Anyone know what I should do?
Did the guy laugh after you handed him the money, or did he do it as you drove away?
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The guy was all friendly asking me to checkout the under the hood etc. When I got there he was in the parking lot with the car already started with his wife and child. Well I got it running again by smacking around the starter, but then I have this problem where I have to gas the car a couple of time before putting into reverse or else it stall.
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Old 02-20-2010, 08:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I see. So he was hiding something. It sounds like an electrical or fuel system problem.
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Old 02-20-2010, 10:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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"Well I got it running again by smacking around the starter"

It seems you have varified the worn starter contacts problem. Here's a link that shows how to replace the contacts, once the starter has been removed from the car. Try your dealer first to see if they carry the contacts.

http://www.nipponautoparts.com/startercontacts.htm

Your other problem sounds like a dirty throttle body/idle air control valve. Here's another link that shows how to clean the throttle body. It's for the 5SFE engine but your 3SFE engine should be virtually identical. Just make sure to spray the cleaner liberally down in the square or diamond shaped hole in the base of the throttle body. That hole is a port that leads to the idle air control valve where your problem may exist. Spray liberally down there and let it soak while you go on to clean the rest of the throttle body.

How to: Cleaning Throttle Body -4 Cylinder Engines- With Pictures

Mike

Last edited by Mike Gerber; 02-20-2010 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 02-20-2010, 06:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Okay, I just got done cleaning the throttle body spraying some carb cleaner in it. A lot of black stuff some came out and when I started the car some smoke came out just like the post said when cleaning the throttle body. It still stall and sometime it doesn't doesn't. I also notice that when I put in drive and start to ease out of the brake the car shoot a little thats something that didn't happen before. Also I was reading the post on how to clean the IAC valve the guy staid that his car stall about four times before it was normal again. Is this the same concept with the throttle body cleaning? I also want to clean the IAC valve, but my iac valve is not located like the one in this post How to guide, clean IAC Valve 56k, be patient! BIG PICT. is it the iscv the one with the power wire connected in the this picture? http://i46.tinypic.com/158817n.jpg just took this pic after cleaning the throttle body.

Last edited by tkhmer; 02-20-2010 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 02-21-2010, 01:30 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Didn't you car have a square or diamond shaped hole in the base of the throttle body, like the one in the last picture of this thread?

How to: Cleaning Throttle Body -4 Cylinder Engines- With Pictures

If so, that's where you spray the cleaner. That hole is a port leading to the idle air control valve. Spray the cleaner liberally down there and let it soak for 15 minutes. Then put everything back together and start the car. Take it for a 10 minute drive to get all the cleaner out of there.

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Old 02-22-2010, 06:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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hey thanks for all the help. I fix my idle problem. I went to the mechanic and the guy found the problem put he didn't want to say anything about the crack idle vacuum hose so I went to to an auto part store bought the hose for two bucks and no more stalling at stop lights are putting it into gear. Just got to flush the coolant and add new coolant and this baby is good to go.
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