87 Camry question about if I need to Bleed the brakes when changing the strut to - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

hardyrxp · 04-02-2010, 01:01 AM

Hello to all,
1st off I want to thank everyone on these forums for answering my numerous ?'s and helping me you guys/girls are the best. I have another dilemma now here is it...
Solution to my 87 Camry Sagging low in the rear as follows. I went and took off 2 whole assembly (coil, shock, & strut all together) at the junk yard today off a 91 Camry with 93k ORGINAL WOW got lucky there.
Okay so my ? here is when I disconnect the rear brake line to (drum brakes wheel cylinder) can I leave it hanging upright so it does not leak out or is it better to leave it dripping out in a pan? The other ? is do I need to bleed the brakes when I reconnect the brake line back and if so how? I don't have a helper just me so please don't type for me to have someone pump the brake pedal while I bleed the brakes as I am looking for another way to do this job on my own here. I was told 3 ways 1 do NOTHING just disconnect then reconnect the brake line (since it is rear brakes) it should be okay and not have air in system. 2nd after disconnecting the brake line squeeze the brake line with vice grips to stop the brake fluid from coming out then reconnect and that is it. 3rd to let the brake line drip into a pan and after reconnecting it back loosen the bleeder screw and let a little air out then repeat steps until air is gone. Note on the 3rd option they said not to pump the brake pedal as they knew I don't have anyone to help me do that. I am guessing that they are saying by loosening the bleeder screw a couple of times a little that will let air out. Please advise me which option is best or the CORRECT way to do this job. Also another ? is should I loosen the bleeder screw a little bit before I disconnect the brake line? Please advise me here as I have never done this the correct way and I would like to learn this time around thanks.
Dave

Jimnist · 04-02-2010, 08:38 AM

Don't disconnect the brake line. Get a hacksaw and cut the clip/metal mount thing. Cut it about 90% of the way and then snap it with pliers, you don't want to accidentally hack at the brake line. Problem solved.

Why are you getting 2nd hand springs and struts? Steel will creep over time (and from the cycles it goes through) so you should get new springs. Same goes for the struts if your ones are shot.

On a side note, if you wanted to bleed your brakes by yourself, i'm pretty sure you can get 'one man(or woman) bleed kits' which may or may not be one way valves on top of the bleed nipples.

hardyrxp · 04-02-2010, 11:08 AM

Hello there,
I believe you have to disconnect the brake line in order to remove it from the hole that is in the strut tower there is no other way. I will double check this but that is why the brake line must be disconnected. I got used struts for 2 reasons. 1 it comes as a whole unit (shock, coil spring, & strut tower already together and assembled) and 2 because I am out of work now. Thanks for your help.
dave

white90dx · 04-02-2010, 06:29 PM

Cut the bracket, bend it out of the way, remove the line. Don't disconnect the brake line if you don't have to.

Read the first reply again, he does a good job explaining what you need to do.

-Charlie

PS. The strut tower is the section of the body of the car that the strut attaches to. The strut body is where you need to remove the line.

hardyrxp · 04-04-2010, 12:54 AM

Wow you guys are either crazy on here or don't understand what the metal and casing looks like. You can't cut it what is wrong with you guys its case hardened steel trying to cut threw that thick steel will be making EXTRA WORK.....
The metal on the strut body is way too thick, hard, and solid to cut or bend it. That would be like me trying to hacksaw my roof off.

Mike Gerber · 04-04-2010, 10:37 AM

Yes, if you opened up a hydraulic line, you will have to bleed that line.

Mike

hardyrxp · 04-04-2010, 10:50 AM

Thanks mike for the info,
So I can learn here what would happen if you did not bleed the rear brakes (wheel cylinder/drum brakes)?

Mike Gerber · 04-04-2010, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hardyrxp

Thanks mike for the info,
So I can learn here what would happen if you did not bleed the rear brakes (wheel cylinder/drum brakes)?

Depending on how much air got in to that line, you may get little or no braking power from that brake. Bleed it. If you don't know how to do that, get someone to help you that does know.

Mike

hardyrxp · 04-04-2010, 10:32 PM

Thanks Mike,
1 more ? for you about the brakes. How would I know if my rear (drum/shoe brakes) are not working or whether they are working properly?

jamblaell · 04-05-2010, 04:08 AM

Your e-brake should hold.

When you press your brake pedal, it shouldn't travel to the floor with no resistance.

With the car off, pump the brakes. The resistance should build up over a few pumps.

hardyrxp · 04-05-2010, 09:42 AM

Thanks very much for the info.
Dave

Mike Gerber · 04-05-2010, 04:07 PM

To add to what jamblaell said, the e-brake is not a valid test of the hydraulic system function. The e-brake is activated by a cable. It has nothing to do with the hydraulic system.

To really test the hydraulic system you would have to jack up the rear of the car and have someone spin that wheel while you or someone else hit's the brake pedal. Another simple test I can think of is to find an empty parking lot on a rainy day and brake hard. If the car stops in a straight line you should be getting even braking on all 4 wheels. If the car pulls to one side or fishtails, then I would question whether or not you have even braking pressure.

Mike

white90dx · 04-05-2010, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hardyrxp

Wow you guys are either crazy on here or don't understand what the metal and casing looks like. You can't cut it what is wrong with you guys its case hardened steel trying to cut threw that thick steel will be making EXTRA WORK.....
The metal on the strut body is way too thick, hard, and solid to cut or bend it. That would be like me trying to hacksaw my roof off.

You should be cutting through about 3-4mm of a small bracket welded to the strut body. Then bend it open and remove the line...

I have replaced struts on a Camry 4 times or so... and a few times on other cars. I do know what I'm talking about.

-Charlie

hardyrxp · 04-05-2010, 11:20 PM

Okay riddle me this batman then if you know what you are talking about.....

I have worked with many metals and cut them on jobs I have done in the past..... This metal is extremely hard, thick, and solid and would take excessive cutting tools to get thew it (not a HACKSAW). .....

hardyrxp · 04-05-2010, 11:22 PM

Why the hell would anyone in their RIGHT MINDS go and make all the extra work of cutting threw some piece of steel 3-4mm thick as you say when all you have to do is what everyone else does (THE CORRECT WAY) Disconnect the brake line BIG DEAL JOB DONE