Timing Question

[burninator409]

I recently changed finished changing my timing belt, and long story shot ended up skipping teeth when I went to Break the Crankshaft Pulley bolt.
I did my best to get the engine to TDC to re-time it, but since there has been weird power issues. First remotely successful attempt, the car was idling at 1200 and bogged down under full acceleration.

Second attempt, I belive is near, or even right on, but I still think it's not quite there. still idles at 1200 warm, and is easier to drive, although I cannot burnout, as i believe I used to be able to, but it has been too long for me to remember, does anyone have any input?

1988 Toyota Camry, 3S-fe 4 cyl. 250,000 mis, Made in Nov of 1987.

[white90dx]

Have you verified the mechanical timing? Make sure that when the crank pully is lined up with the 0* mark on the lower timing cover that the cam gear (accessable through a rubber plug) is matched up with the mark on the head. There is a small tick mark on the head (straight 'up' to the motor, but leaned back 10-15* with the motor installed in the car) and a small hole in the cam gear itself.

As for the spark timing once the timing belt is on there correctly... You must be at a warm idle (<1k RPM, for sure) with the "Te" and "E1" connectors jumpered in the diagnostics box in the engine bay. If you do not have the jumper set in the diagnostics box, you cannot get the time right. If you messed with it incorrectly, set it back to the middle of the range, warm up the car and then adjust.

-Charlie

[burninator409]

Alright, well I have finally got around to some light diagnostic work now that schools out

I have not entirely verified the mechanical timing, but I have set it at least 5 times to what I believe to be tdc.

I Jumped "Te"(which was not Te1 as indicated by the bgb) and "E1"
It read a code 51, which indicates as follows


At first I thought the TPS could have been bad, but I was driving home in a really bad storm,
and the ECON(on the A/C) light started to blink, The bgb says it could either be the belt slipping, "revolution detecting sensor faulty" or the A/C amp
is faulty

Does any one have any experience with this or any advice.

Thanks for all the help, I would still be messing with timing if it wasn't for you guys


-Grayson

[Doctor J]

A/c switch in on position can cause code 51. Blinking a/c light can indicate mechanical problem inside the compressor as well.

[stanno]

Darn it! I was driving to work with my wife (she was driving) and she drove through a huge amount of water and the econ light (the a/c was on and running) started flashing.

Although, since then (it hasn't rained) i haven't seen anything of such. It's now on steady as before.

I hope she didn't damage anything

[burninator409]

updates!

first yayyyy
i advanced the timing a tooth amd it seems to have cured the lack of power.
I also changed the tps, becasue i had taken it off and some of the plastic was cracked.

The a/c blinking was a result of a loose belt and a lot of rain

although now there are more problems, but i am not as concerned with them

1. whenever I am crusining and step on the clutch or out the car into neutral, the tach bounces between
700 and 1k rpm, and the speedo is also a but bouncy

2. the car leaks, and after taking off the headliner it seems as though I have to drop the roof pan and re seal most of it.

I think everything else I have under control

thanks for all of the help