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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 06-07-2010, 01:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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No spark after swap?

What components should I check for spark? I may have left out a few connections, so I'm just wondering what exactly I should check?

The used motor had 200k miles, but was pulled out in "running" condition.

Any ground connections, specific plugs, ect. I should be checking? Thanks!

(ENGINE swap that is)

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Old 06-07-2010, 03:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oscaryu1 View Post
What components should I check for spark? I may have left out a few connections, so I'm just wondering what exactly I should check?

The used motor had 200k miles, but was pulled out in "running" condition.

Any ground connections, specific plugs, ect. I should be checking? Thanks!

(ENGINE swap that is)
No spark at plugs? Check wires going to ignitor

EDIT:
If you are in Houston, I can come by one day and look at it...
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Old 06-07-2010, 04:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That's very kind of you Unfortunately, the car is actually park in Victoria (texas), the old motor suffered from oil starvation, threw a rod, and we swapped a used 3SFE in :-\ Just enough to get it moving and get TO Houston where I can have "full time" access to it (I rarely come to Victoria, school and other matters).

All right, so I have the old uh. Distributor setup that came off the side of the old motor. There are two areas where you plug in... connectors. One is a two wire, one is a three wire. Do I test it from the two wire connector? (One's black, one is black with a red stripe)
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Oh okay, nevermind, the ignitor is that little box next to the battery. Tested the wire with the red stripe and the completely black wire. 12.08V at the battery, 11.88V at the ignitor.

Anything else I should be checking?
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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On the two wire connector on the distributor, I'm only getting 5V. I assume I'm supposed to be getting 12V or so... correct? Or at least the high 11V's...
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Old 06-07-2010, 11:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Scratch that, I'm getting the same voltage the ignitor is getting at that two prong plug now.

I've narrowed it to a bad ground. With one end of a multimeter on the + on the coil, and the - on the battery terminal (ground, -), I'm getting the correct voltage. With the positive on the ba ttery and the negative on the coil, I'm getting .21V.

So I'm assuming bad ground. Does it take the ground voltage from that little connector I'm talking about or from the engine block?
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The coil gets ground from the harness, and the battery grounds to the block. I would suggest replacing the whole ground cable to the block if you think the ground is bad (or check continuity in the ground wires) I replaced mine with 0 gauge wire and got an excellent ground.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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All right this is confusing... once more, I'm getting 5V.

The positive lead on the connector is fine. I can get 12V from the + lead on the connector and ground from the frame.

With the - lead on the connector and the + on the battery, I am getting only 5.5V.

What type of ignition coils are these? Do they run off of 6V or 12V ?

Can I safely "wire in" a second ground wire directly to the connector?
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How about the voltage between the chassis at the battery + and - terminals?

The engine/trans should have at least 3 grounds connected. One between the head and the right strut tower (with a little connector in the middle). One between the top of the trans at the battery (and then to the chassis) and one between the front of the trans and the left front frame rail.

Also, verify that the ground connection for the harness is connected and tight on the back of the intake manifold. This links the ECU, ignitor and many other things together with the main ground of the engine and chassis.

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Old 06-08-2010, 04:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The one you're talking about has two black wires and two white wires, and a 10mm nut that bolts onto the intake runner of the second to the left cylinder, right?

I actually cut that off, then put it back together when the new motor was in. I couldn't reach far enough to take it off :-\

It wouldn't matter what order I put them in, since they're all going back to ground, right? (As in if I got a black/white wire mixed up)

I actually only have one of the grounds hooked up... the one above the transmission (thickest). I'll go attempt to put the others on... THANKS for the tip...

But I'm getting both + voltage at both ends of the coil. Is that normal?!
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Well... ground was perfect at the intake manifold... even with just one of the ground cables on :-\
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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^That's from the harness, does that have to be plugged in? I didn't exactly put the harness back where it was, just sorta laid it on top of the motor to test and see if it would at least FIRE :-\



^That's the two pin "power" connector that was on top of the distributor. Could somebody do me a huge favor and see how much power comes out of it? THANKS!
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Old 06-09-2010, 12:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ohay guys, so a bit of research, and this is exactly what I KNOW (turns out I was confused about a few things):

Power IS going to the ignitor, which worked fine before the swap.

Distributor has NO oil in it, o ring is in good condition, timing belt was replaced before the "new" engine was swapped in (new engine was said to be in running condition)

With one test lead on the +, and the other test lead at ground, I am getting power at the ignition coil.

YESTERDAY, I had no CEL when key was in "ON" (but I DID have the battery light). Today, while in "ON", after I had jiggled a few things, the CEL turned on o.O (Weird)

Gonna go remeasure the resistance of the pickups and such again.

Ignition switch is supposedly directly connected to the neutral safety switch, which works with the starter. Starter is cranking everytime and working fine, so I'm ruling that out.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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(unless the bulb is burned out) The check engine light should be on while the motor is stopped and while cranking, if this is not the case, the ECU is not powered or is not working.

The fuel pump will still pressurize the system while cranking if the circuit opening relay (on/near the ECU) is getting power.

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Old 06-09-2010, 03:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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OMGASM IT SPUTTERED

So I attempted to start it with one plug out (I was using that to check spark...) Cranked, sounded the same.

2-3 seconds of squirting carburetor cleaner ("starting fluid :P"), and it coughed and attempted to start! YES!

Weirdly enough, I think this problem was a loose wire. Because I POSITIVELY remember attempting to see if the CEL bulb was burned out or just loose by rapping on the dashboard multiple times SHARPLY.

Go to it today, and it works?! (Weirdly the same thing with the P/R/D/2/L lights... only TWO of them worked. Then two more just came outta nowhere after randomly shifting through the gears).

Now a fuel delivery issue

(^I meant to post that awhile ago, forgot to though)
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