1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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I haven't driven my 91 v6 more than 2 consecutive hours since last summer. i drove from where i live to toledo, OH (about 1hr 25mins) this weekend and the car almost overheated. (needle got close to the red but did not go into the red). this is at highway speeds like 65-75mph. it wouldn't start until about 30mins after that drive (until it cooled down) My coolant was pretty dirty (nasty brown color) so i changed it at my relatives place in toledo (flushed with distilled water 4x and refilled with peak pre-diluted) on the drive back it did the same thing, needle would move around between the middle and the white line right before the red area. so its not the coolant (there is enough in the system) and there are no visible leaks. any ideas? ive been looking around online and ive read these are symptoms of a blown head gasket but there's no coolant in my oil/water from the tailpipe/oil level is correct etc.
EDIT: wanted to add that the A/C went warm when the needle started to move toward the red and that the radiator was replaced in January of 09, so its not bad fins
Seeing as you said the water was a nasty brown, i'd take a stab at your radiator - it's all clogged and corroded inside.
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Camry history:
1990 Camry CS 5spd - Now scrap metal
1994 Camry Executive A/T - Burnt to a crisp.
1995 Camry Vienta Csi A/T - Still running
1999 Camry Touring 5 spd - Current
It could be your thermostat. If it goes bad it won't let the coolant circulate at the correct temperatures.
is that the one after the top rad hose or the one on the water pump. or both.
i looked at prices and this shouldnt be an expensive fix if it turns out to be water pump or something. what is a decent brand for sensor/thermostat/water pump besides denso (couldnt find any denso)
I second the thermostat. can't beat OEM. its going to be the one by the water pump. If not it may also be that your radiator is just on its last leg and needs to be replaced altogether. If your still rolling on the original radiator then it might just be an old and therefore obsolete radiator.
Nice wagon by the way
Last edited by blu_91_cam; 07-05-2010 at 06:03 PM.
the radiator+rad cap were replaced in January of 2009...and it only has like 4 bent fins so im sure its not that. im going to schedule a visit to my mechanic who said he will diagnose the problem for free. if it turns out to be the thermostat thanks for that link. ill post back soon.
i flushed it out with distilled water until it came out clear. is it possible it could still be clogged? and is there an easy way i can see if it is?
Depends, do you call taking the radiator out easy? To test, you take it out and reverse flush it with a hose. If you can feel excessive back pressure or if the water coming out doesn't match the water going in then it's clogged.
However, since you said it was replaced in 09 then i highly doubt it'd be stuffed.
As others have said, could be the thermostat is stuck closed.
__________________
Camry history:
1990 Camry CS 5spd - Now scrap metal
1994 Camry Executive A/T - Burnt to a crisp.
1995 Camry Vienta Csi A/T - Still running
1999 Camry Touring 5 spd - Current
i know this is random, but I want to yoink Ninja's fog lights. Then again, you gotta be like at least 50 percent samurai and 50 percent chuck norris to attempt a yoink job on a ninja, damn.....
I have a couple ideas of what it might be. The thermostat may be fine since they usually behave like a light switch when they break, all the way shut or all the way open. Also a blown head gasket, if present, usually heats the engine up really hot really fast. Its possible you may have a small leak in the head gasket and i'd have that checked,
A wild guess is that maybe your timing belt or tensioner is old and loose, and not turning the water pump fast enough. Or maybe an impeller blade on the water pump has broken off and is not cooling the engine adequately.
If everything else checks out, then maybe the corrosion inside is bad enough that cooling flow is too restricted. Your cooling system is corroded, but not so badly it doesn't function, so maybe a backflush may help get the scale out of the engine cooling passages.
before anyone says it, yes i searched, all the threads about these sensors are for the 4cyl not the 6. my guys at midas said its either the thermostat or a sensor. can anyone tell me what each of these sensors does? when i search for coolant sensor all i get is the green one with a square connector, however the haynes manual says it is the one in picture 2 right after the water outlet. i cant find any sensors at all with a round connector. i want to replace these one by one to see if it is a sensor causing the issue before i spend any $ on labor.
I have a couple ideas of what it might be. The thermostat may be fine since they usually behave like a light switch when they break, all the way shut or all the way open. Also a blown head gasket, if present, usually heats the engine up really hot really fast. Its possible you may have a small leak in the head gasket and i'd have that checked,
A wild guess is that maybe your timing belt or tensioner is old and loose, and not turning the water pump fast enough. Or maybe an impeller blade on the water pump has broken off and is not cooling the engine adequately.
If everything else checks out, then maybe the corrosion inside is bad enough that cooling flow is too restricted. Your cooling system is corroded, but not so badly it doesn't function, so maybe a backflush may help get the scale out of the engine cooling passages.
that is one other thing midas mentioned was a clog somewhere in the system. what exactly is a backflush? easy to do myself?
i know this is random, but I want to yoink Ninja's fog lights. Then again, you gotta be like at least 50 percent samurai and 50 percent chuck norris to attempt a yoink job on a ninja, damn.....
haha thanks. theyre cheap-o ebay ones that i put yellow film on. they work decent but i want to replace them with the hella ff75's. the reason i didnt get those in the 1st place was because of the price but after i saw the thread on here of the light pattern i think its worth the extra $. the display name is from my old old old AIM screen name haha
that is one other thing midas mentioned was a clog somewhere in the system. what exactly is a backflush? easy to do myself?
Backflushing is simply pumping water through the engine (from a garden hose) in the reverse direction that the water pump pushes it. The idea is this will lift more deposits.
You can find a backflush kit at most auto parts stores, its usually pretty simple, you have to splice in a garden hose adaptor into the heater hose.
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