91 camry sedan CV & suspension questions

[shanone9]

Hello all, I am new here and have some Q's regarding refreshing my 91 DX Camry sedan commuter assault vehicle.

Runs great, buts needs a suspension overhaul. I have access to a lift and air tools. Just trying to get my parts altogether to bang this out. Can't afford alot of down time tracking/ID parts. I want to have everything ready to go. Not hot rodding her, just refreshing for more years of great service.

My Qs:

1) How do I identify which CVs I have to order parts? splined or bolted? can't tell by crawling underneath. I have replaced CVs before on my other cars and am familiar with the process and have a Camry repair manual. (but not enough info/pics to figure out CV removal.

2) Will be replacing all for corners with the KYB struts. I understand the rear seat needs to come out for the rears. Any other info I need to know? Will re-use the springs.

thank you in advance for your replies

Shanon
-91 Camry DX sedan. Bone stock

[Doctor J]

I wish I would have access to shop lift and air tools
the bolted axle flange looks like this:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2551/...bc1e38e3_b.jpg

[shanone9]

thx for the reply and pic.

hhmm.. is there a different set-up possibly or a good diagram somewhere on-line?

I have been under the car (not on a lift currently) and I can't see the six bolts? Can't see anything from the top...argh!

Are the Gen 2 Camry 2000cc 4cyls front wheel drive, USA built cars all the same?

Diffintely see tyhe difference in the Japan-USA built cars, mine is a USA these appears different? USA doesn't use the 6 bolts. So how do you remove the CV assembly?

Here what I am looking at:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...+%26+Shafts%29

thx in advance!
-shanon

[Doctor J]

These are 6 12mm nuts not bolts

[techi]

The flange type with 6 nuts on it is easier to replace than the one without because you dont have to swing out each front axle by removing the tie rods and assembly but you have to remove the front wheel and get the the main axle nut that holds the rotor in. While your at it check the front bearings. If you have noise that is time to take care of it. If no noise, make sure you repack the bearings with a good quality grease. After removing the 6 nuts and main axle, you should be able to swing out the axle down and out of the wheel axle.

[Doctor J]

I never heard about re-packing the front wheel bearings for 2nd gen Camry
It is intended to be lubricated for life.
can you share details how you repacked them
thanks

[techi]

I am on my way out of town. No disrepect intended in my response below.

What do you mean lubricated for life?.....2nd gen camrys are about 20yrs old and even the best synthetic grease in the world is subject to contamination. Seals do not keep out the contamin. Not even Hermetic seals.

See SA (suspension and axle) in the camry manual for procedure. Except I use rubbing alcohol and mineral spirits to clean the bearings. Note that "repacking" should be interpreted loosely as packing the bearing with grease is loading it up with grease while displacing any residual contaminants. I do this by hand...

Background:
BS aeronautical engineering
Operational flight test and evaluation engineer
Sr Staff reliability Engineer, space systems
UL Safety Engineer - Designated office Engineer
Licensed Airframe and Power Plant mechanic
Licensed Smog and Diagnostic Repair
Subject Matter Expert, Reliability, Maintainability, Testability Engineer

Not trying to impress anyone here, just want you to understand where I am coming from.

[Doctor J]

If I would have background similar to yours, I would be driving a solar-powered Corvette not the 23 year old clunker
My FSM book for 88 Camry in the section FA, pages 7 to 12 covers front bearing removal and replacement but not repacking; this procedure is NOT listed in maintenance section as well.
Are you referring to the PDF file at www.camrystuff.com?
It shows the same procedure like I my book does
From what I see, the assess to the bearing calls for removal of the seal (not bad) and driving out the axle hub (is not easy to do without removal the steering knuckle assembly) otherwise there is a good chance that the old grease and cleaning solvent will stay in the bearing.

[techi]

Well, who says I am not working on the next back to the future car/testla =P? I dont drive these cars....I drive a 2006 XRS..68 porsche and rockets to the moon and mars.

Moms car, and it is a special challenge eh to make things last? Total cost of ownership or LLC is call lower life cycle cost. BER analysis...Beyond economic repair is my specialty so I come up with different ways to fix a car better than orig. design.

I develop maintenance and procedures and upgrades to existing systems....outside normal conditions...

Okay, so I see u got the FSM, good job!....in my rush out the door, I only could find a 89corolla FSM.

So I am going by memory since Im not home....I didnt have to drive out the thing...probably used a 10 lb sliding puller..get cheap at Harbor Freight....I replace seals because the rubber seal self life per mil standard is about 15 yrs..........need a cheap slide hammer? improvise and use old bell bar weights, connected to washers nuts..etc....for the stop on a threaded shaft etc...get the picture?...frankly, just spend some money on getting one at harbor frieght....

Anyway, whether seal is there or not....here is the secret....use WD 40, alcohol in a spray bottle, compress air, mineral spirits/paint brush..tooth brush.....just clean the thing.....to get the old grease out and use a shop vac or vaccuum pump and compressed air to get out the liquid and crude....then like a doctor doing a colon examine, pack ur grease and fingers in there....(load the baby up with the best synthetic grease u can find). So lets see how ur technique is......=). You might qualify to be a colon examiner and specialist after this procedure if you do it right......

I owe STANNO a reply about the distributor oil leak question....but it means rebuilding it or buying a new one....caz u got to drive out the bearing on the shaft and replace the seal that you can not buy unless u reverse engineered it like I did with an upgraded seal high quality double lip seal..... not sure wat his skill level is.....oh well, got to get some dinner.....

Good luck....

[techi]

just finish dinner...

btw....cleaning can be water based or oil based...do not use silicone base.....

ever been to the dentist lately....? use water pik and vac....

buy water pik from Walgreens, use mouth wash(alcohol and water mix) and eventually rubbing alcohol/water mix.....blast out any old grease......dry out with suction..wet vac, pump, hair dryer..., shop air....get it...? once clean and dry, then proceed with packing grease...

if you go oil based, begin blasting with wd40, and then final wash with paint thinner/min. spirits....blow dry with shop air.....

[Doctor J]

Thanks for taking time to answer

[techi]

Np and thanks too.
I have seen all the advise you have given to others and it has helped me to cut down on my diagnostics at time.

if you are ever interested on how to fix a tranny solenoid rather than replace.....look for poor soldier joint in the back of the solenoid. applicable to no.1 solenoid on 88 camry...
not sure about other..beats paying 100-200 bux.
Have fun and good luck.

[metrodriver]

Does anyone know if there is a way to replace a cv-joint boot without replacing the whole axle or taking the hub appart (in which case you're halfway to replacing the axle anyway)?

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by metrodriver

Does anyone know if there is a way to replace a cv-joint boot without replacing the whole axle or taking the hub appart (in which case you're halfway to replacing the axle anyway)?

You can buy a split boot kit, but why? If any dirt has gotten in the joint, it will wear out quickly and need to be replaced.

Remanufactured axles with a lifetime warranty are cheap ($60-75 around here) and it doesn't take long to replace them...

-Charlie

[66conv6]

I too have never heard of repacking my 87 and 88 Camry front wheel bearings as I recall they are sealed for life. I just put new ones in. On the other hand my 66 Mustang, I've repacked many times.

I've found it easier to replace the whole CV than replace an axle boot. Took me about 30minutes to replace CV in my driveway and cost about $45.