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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 07-31-2010, 01:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Brake Drums

i have an 86 Camry, and the back brakes started to squeak, well, more of a grinding sound. not to bad, but noticeable. I started to change the brakes, and i could not, for the life of me, take one of the drums off. is there any secret to get these things off when they are stuck??

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thomas
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Old 07-31-2010, 04:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you use the threaded holes to try to lever it off with 2 corresponding screws? If you did and it moves a bit but won't come completely off, there may be a lip worn around the inside edge of that drum. The drums can be soft enough so that the shoes wear a pattern in to the drum except for that inside edge, where the shoes don't contact it. That inside edge is like a lip that the shoes catch on as your try to remove the drum. If that's the case, you have to hold the locking tang away from the self-adjuster with a small screwdriver while you reverse the self adjuster with another slotted screwdriver. This will pull the shoes back in so that eventually the shoes will clear that lip that has formed.

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Old 07-31-2010, 05:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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hmm... where can you get corresponding screws for the threaded holes?
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Old 08-01-2010, 02:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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At just about any hardware store, auto parts store, or home store. The screws should be 8MM X 1.25 thread pitch. About 1-1/2 inches in length should be fine, I actually prefer to use socket cap screws myself as they are made of a harder alloy and won't strip, but then you have to use an allen wrench to turn them in. Any hex head screw with that thread diameter, pitch and length would work fine.

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Old 08-01-2010, 05:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
Did you use the threaded holes to try to lever it off with 2 corresponding screws? If you did and it moves a bit but won't come completely off, there may be a lip worn around the inside edge of that drum. The drums can be soft enough so that the shoes wear a pattern in to the drum except for that inside edge, where the shoes don't contact it. That inside edge is like a lip that the shoes catch on as your try to remove the drum. If that's the case, you have to hold the locking tang away from the self-adjuster with a small screwdriver while you reverse the self adjuster with another slotted screwdriver. This will pull the shoes back in so that eventually the shoes will clear that lip that has formed.

Mike

okay, i tried this, but its still stuck. is it possible to drain the brake fluid and try to force the shoes to come in and not put pressure on the drum??
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86camota View Post
okay, i tried this, but its still stuck. is it possible to drain the brake fluid and try to force the shoes to come in and not put pressure on the drum??
Try this from my original post:

"If you did and it moves a bit but won't come completely off, there may be a lip worn around the inside edge of that drum. The drums can be soft enough so that the shoes wear a pattern in to the drum except for that inside edge, where the shoes don't contact it. That inside edge is like a lip that the shoes catch on as your try to remove the drum. If that's the case, you have to hold the locking tang away from the self-adjuster with a small screwdriver while you reverse the self adjuster with another slotted screwdriver. This will pull the shoes back in so that eventually the shoes will clear that lip that has formed."

Mike
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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the way mike is telling you to do it is really the best way. once that drum gets a lip on it it can put up a good fight. you said you tried using the bolt way, but you can also use a cheap harmonic balancer puller. even just using the two bolts way works even though at first you dont think it will cause it gets tighter and tighter and doesn't budge. i say keep going at it with the bolts, worst case scenario you break the shoes (you are going to replace them anyway) or you break the drum (never had it happen, but there is nothing wrong with new drums if they are that screwed up to begin with.) Next up is what mike said again, to hold back the adjuster screw locking tab. while you have that tab held back it aint a bad idea to hammer around the whole whole drum trying to get the cylinder to compress. you said you are thinking about draining the brake fluid but IMO that is kind of like a last resort thing unless you where planning on bleeding all your brakes anyway

BTW, if the lip is really all that bad you might have to consider getting those drums machined or getting new drums if the shop says they are too low to machine.

Last edited by 270+Camry; 08-02-2010 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i was planning bleeding the brakes. better safe then sorry so...
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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just get a big screwdriver in under the drum and pry it apart....sometimes brute force is the only way to go!
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Is there an access hole for the self adjuster? Usually there is a rubber plug that gives you access, with a bit of maneuvering, you can dial back the adjuster which will move the shoes away from the drum.
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