1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Ok so my dad said that he will buy me a car under $4000. i've been looking at nissan, acuras, etc. then today he said maybe we could spend a thousand to fix mine up. Now here's the dilemma I want a new car but Im so used to my camry I know when she's running too hard and when i need gas etc and I know that It wont randomly just stop working on me. Now if we do decide to fix my car here's a list of what I'll be fixing if anyone can tell me what it could cost roughly that'd be great. 1. Redoing the weather stripping 2. fixing body (a welt type dent in my rear passenger side quarter panel) and painting 3. seat belts (i hate with a friggin passion the seat belts that are adjustable on the left and the side with the actually buckle is about 1 foot long) 4. seeing if my window motors are going bad 5. seeing why I occasionally get a clicking noise when I go to start after driving it on a hot day 6. charging a/c 7. complete engine clean seafoam the works. and seeing if the hairline fracture, i should say, is any worry inside the water pump housing. 8. get my wheels aligned. 9. fixing seats (i can get my mom to make seat covers Ill probably look for material cost) 10a. try to fix the lamp failure box so my taillights won't go out. 10b. and finally is this car 199k miles worth making over? I love her but I don't want to make a mule plow the field with 1 leg left. Thanks all and sorry about all the other posts last year. i was just frustrated with my car not starting come to find out it was the alternator not charging the 10 year old battery we forgot to replace. Also is there any pictures of an 89 camry that is modified tastfully i.e paint job, seats etc. ?
you can spend $4000 and have one really nice lookin camry as well... paint suspension and nice 16 inch wheels = $2800, you'll still have enough left to fix all your other stuff.
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Here's my camry ^
Current: B+G Springs, KYB GR2 Struts, Erebuni Bodykit(uninstalled), 3SGTE/E52 swap, Crane HI-6S Ignition Box, Crane Timing Retard Controller.
Plans: Here
True the hubcaps I have now are the stock ones which don't look bad they're not broke or anything. The only things I wanna go to another car is that mine doesn't want to start all the time it clicks (engaging starter) but won't turn over, I've noticed pressing gas then trying to start makes it start better; also the whole moisture inside the car, On hot rainy days Ill get inside and there will be condensation on the inside around the top parts of the windows I do believe the weather striping is what's causing rain to get inside my trunk which is getting on my lamp failure box causing it to mess up (or the fact that it moves around since the tape came off. I might look for a celica or nissan but ill check some body shops around town to see how hard would finding leaks would be. I've already done the water test but it didn't work=/
True the hubcaps I have now are the stock ones which don't look bad they're not broke or anything. The only things I wanna go to another car is that mine doesn't want to start all the time it clicks (engaging starter) but won't turn over, I've noticed pressing gas then trying to start makes it start better; also the whole moisture inside the car, On hot rainy days Ill get inside and there will be condensation on the inside around the top parts of the windows I do believe the weather striping is what's causing rain to get inside my trunk which is getting on my lamp failure box causing it to mess up (or the fact that it moves around since the tape came off. I might look for a celica or nissan but ill check some body shops around town to see how hard would finding leaks would be. I've already done the water test but it didn't work=/
so you say the starter engages and cranks the engine but it does not fire up?
so you say the starter engages and cranks the engine but it does not fire up?
and in addition there's a clicking sound?
I get inside turn the key and click, turn off, turn on and click. It only does this when It's been driven for a bit, to get to it to start i just pump gas 2-3 three times and it seems to like reset it or something. It's far better from last year where the battery didn't have enough juice to engage the solenoid and it would get stuck, where I would then go and tap it with a stick.
I get inside turn the key and click, turn off, turn on and click. It only does this when It's been driven for a bit, to get to it to start i just pump gas 2-3 three times and it seems to like reset it or something. It's far better from last year where the battery didn't have enough juice to engage the solenoid and it would get stuck, where I would then go and tap it with a stick.
if that's the case where you have to be tapping the starter with something to get it to rotate, it may mean the brushes inside the starter are sticking.
The starters were all brand new we went through 4 of them and still had the problem. One day at college I had to be jumped off the guy said if I replaced the starter that many times to check my battery and alternator. Well apparently the alternator was slowly going bad and the battery was almost 10 years old. Changed them the next day and the sucker drove like new. Now it only clicks when it's really hot (high 90s) and im driving in town. And the funny thing is it only does it like eh once or twice a month if that, even then it starts within a minute of turning the key over and over
Nice looking camry I like the rims but stock is always tasteful as well .. and cheaper :p. I was thinking that the ign wire could be replaced. Hmm I just don't know if i should or not. Ill post pictures of the car in a bit with labeled pictures of what I'll try to do.
So here are some pictures of my Camry. The things circled are what I want to fix on it.
Front bumber-cosmetic
Paint on hood has chipping- cosmetic
The driver side rear view mirror peg that changes view snapped off. I can still change the angle so for now -cosmetic
Also the windows roll up slow not sure if it's electrical or if they need to be oiled (howwould I oil them without taking off door panels (so those clips dont snap off)-electrical maybe
Taillights have moisture in them May cause them to burn out quicker- electrical
bumber faded- cosmetic
It's like a welt that I thought was the origin of the leaking trunk could cause rust -cosmetic with urgency
THOSE RETARDED SEATBELTS OMFG!!!!!!!!!
Cracks in dash-cosmetic
Gear selector rubs off on my arm-cosmetic
the gear selector line is broke and doesn't light up-cosmetic
This is a puddle of water behind drive side rear wheel
yellow lamp failure box that bangs around sometimes and doesn't work- electrical
what is the blue electric wire there it has no power so what does it do-useless?
Oil that has been there for a while I don't burn oil so i don't think it's a leak nor do I loose oil
Could the ground wire for the battery cause low electrical power to windows (they have a low rur r r like they want to go out)
See the beat marks on the solenoid
This does not work I think it's because the tiny ball fell out
So here are some pictures of my Camry. The things circled are what I want to fix on it.
My suggestions:
Bumper covers - leave 'em or replace 'em, your choice.
Mirror - junkyard or ebay for a replacement if you want.
Tail lights - They just need to be re-sealed. There is a product called Moretite at Home Depot for this purpose. Its normally used for home windows. You will need to remove the outer tail lights, remove the old/dirty/leaking sealant and replace it. The inner lights will need something similar, though they use a foam gasket - maybe you can use a bit of silicone there. Leave a small hole at the bottom of each opening so that any small amount of water that gets in has a chance of going right back out.
Rusty dent - sand back to bare, clean metal and primer it up to keep the damage from spreading.
Seat belts - Those lap belts are NOT factory. Get the right ones if you hate them. They are a normal pull out from the base of the b-pillar and click in at the center console area type.
Cracked interior parts - junkyard parts or live with it.
Water in trunk side pockets - there is a small rubber plug that you can remove to keep it drained. Sealing the tail lights should keep most/all of the water from coming back. Check the spare tire well and other side too...
Trunk wiring - I'd have to look this up in the diagrams...
Engine oil leak - looks like a leaking valve cover gasket. Your engine probably need a lot of TLC to make it happy.
Battery ground wire - get a cheap replacement at the auto parts store. Make sure one wire goes to the top of the transmission and one goes to the fender like stock.
Starter - Wire in they extra relay as shown in the link in my first post and you won't have to hit it anymore.
Dome light - junkyard replacement.
Hope that helps.
-Charlie
__________________
2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
hey charlie, those seats look wicked. are those celica seats?
Yeah, 7th gen Celica GTS leather seats. Since that picture I cleaned up the brakets and painted the brackets and gray plastic black. They look really nice now, though the leather is aging (gotta be better about keeping them conditioned...).
-Charlie
__________________
2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
Bumper covers - leave 'em or replace 'em, your choice.
Mirror - junkyard or ebay for a replacement if you want.
Tail lights - They just need to be re-sealed. There is a product called Moretite at Home Depot for this purpose. Its normally used for home windows. You will need to remove the outer tail lights, remove the old/dirty/leaking sealant and replace it. The inner lights will need something similar, though they use a foam gasket - maybe you can use a bit of silicone there. Leave a small hole at the bottom of each opening so that any small amount of water that gets in has a chance of going right back out.
Rusty dent - sand back to bare, clean metal and primer it up to keep the damage from spreading.
Seat belts - Those lap belts are NOT factory. Get the right ones if you hate them. They are a normal pull out from the base of the b-pillar and click in at the center console area type.
Cracked interior parts - junkyard parts or live with it.
Water in trunk side pockets - there is a small rubber plug that you can remove to keep it drained. Sealing the tail lights should keep most/all of the water from coming back. Check the spare tire well and other side too...
Trunk wiring - I'd have to look this up in the diagrams...
Engine oil leak - looks like a leaking valve cover gasket. Your engine probably need a lot of TLC to make it happy.
Battery ground wire - get a cheap replacement at the auto parts store. Make sure one wire goes to the top of the transmission and one goes to the fender like stock.
Starter - Wire in they extra relay as shown in the link in my first post and you won't have to hit it anymore.
Dome light - junkyard replacement.
Hope that helps.
-Charlie
All this +1.
For the valve cover gasket you will need the gasket, a tube of rtv and to clean the engine before you even start taking stuff apart. There is a product called Simple Green that I use that is friendly to your lawn and you can get it at most grocery stores in either the hardware/auto aisle or the cleaning aisle. Light mist with the hose to wash it off after hitting it with a green plastic scrubber (also from grocery store) will get the engine looking better and let you see where stuff is leaking. It will also keep you from getting as dirty when working on your engine.
When you take your cover off you can spray it as well with high temperature paint if you degrease it completely first. This will get it looking good and make you feel good about your progress.
Bring her back from the brink bud, you will learn a lot about your vehicle and the sense of satisfaction will be worth it. You don't have to do it all at once, but doing a little bit every time you have a minute will add up and it will be done before you know it. Get that rust handled first, even if you have to run around with a primer patched car it is worth it if you don't have to buy body panels later.
For the dash you might be able to get a dash cover carpet piece if they make an aftermarket cover that fits. Otherwise you could get a piece of short pile carpet from a carpet store remnant then get an edge put on it from a rug shop.
Also you can get most of the exterior items you mentioned from www.rockauto.com and it is where I get my parts.
Bumper cover - $30
Dashboard cover - $21- $35
Valve Cover Gasket - $21 (I suggest the Fel Pro brand)
Tail Light Assembly - $76 each (I would try to reseal first)
Other things to think about are new tie rod ends if they are blown and new struts all the way around if they are still factory originals. New Tires and flush all the old fluids (oil, radiator, tranny, power steering) and redo with new. New wires and plugs and a new battery unless that one is fairly decent (have it checked at any auto parts store, alternator too!).
Take it to the local car wash and give it a good cleaning as well as vacuuming the interior out to get it looking nice. Those seats will be fine with some seat covers and a steering wheel cover wouldn't hurt either.
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