1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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Hi,
I have a 1987 Toyota Camry
The transmission had a delayed shifting so I put the coder with the O/D switch and I got a code that solenoid 2 and 3 were malfunctioning.
I replaced #2 and now the automatic transmission doesn't shift to forward unless engine is revved at high RPM. The solenoid installed came out of wrecked car, I tested it and it seemed to work fine.
Now I need to find #3 and would like to know if anyone can tell me where it is located.
The wires for solenoids #1 and #2 were checked with a multi-meter and they have continuity because the multi-meter showed 12V. I don't know where solenoid #3 is, I think is on the top of the transmission and reachable from the hood. This forum is great, by reading about similar cases I was able to pinpoint the problem with solenoid #2. But, can someone tell me how to find #3, also called lock up solenoid?
Thanks in advance
Next to the dipstic tube close to the pan , metal cylinder 1 inch diameter 2 inches long with single wire going out of it. My recommendation to use 9 volt battery to test the solenoid (it must click) as I described in one of the posts. You don't need to remove pan to replave lock up solenoid
Thank you so much for your help. I've checked as you said lock up solenoid with a 7.5 V battery and there was no click. So, the solenoid is bad, I also got a code that told me so, I removed the 2 bolts that hold it down but I get a lot of resistance to pull it out. Am I doing this right?
as far as I remebering, there are two screws with 10 mm heads that holding this solenoid to the tranny.
In addition, there is a rubber o-ring which causes considerable efforts to pull that solenoid out.
Use 1/8 inch size flat scredriver to wedge it between the flange of this solenoid and the tranny, then twist this screwdriver (do NOT pry on it!) to loosen the solenoid.
Remove the connector from ECT computer. (behind the glovebox).
Look at the connector with the pins facing you. Clip or locking mechanism facing up ward. S1 farthest to the right on the row closest to the clip. S2 is one in from that. and SL is one in from that.
Ground is 6th in from the right on the side opposite the clip
Run resistance checks from each pin to ground.
Spec is 11 -15 Ohms resistance.
Remember Key off engine off.
Even if solenoids electrically work, the seals may be busted in which case it will not make a difference.
This will ensure that there is continuity between the computer and the solenoids. There are some voltage checks while everything is hooked up but that would be hard to describe on here. If need be I could scan some pictures.
Good luck.
Last edited by scarney1988; 09-01-2010 at 05:58 PM.
Dr. J.
The oil filter and level were fine since I had just replace them, but thanks anyways.
Scarney1988, your test will indicated if the wires are continuous and good, if your test fails, then the wire or wires will have to be replaced, am I correct?
FYI, I checked the 3 solenoid's hot wires with a multimeter and ground and they check OK (the voltage reading is the same as the battery). But if you think that I should do your test despite mine, I'll go ahead...please let me know.
The test would confirm the wiring harness to the solenoids and then back to groung are good.
If all that checks out and you still suspect the ECT computer there are some tests you can do with the car running and in drive by back probing the harness at the computer and checking voltages. I'll have to scan that though cause its a lot of info.
With ignition on and car stopped the #1 solenoid should be energized and REGARDLESS of selector position.Bad solenoid will not cause car not to move from standstill until the engine revved up but low pressure to forward clutch will. Not working solenoid #3 will disable lock-up; bad solenoid #1 will cause the car to have 3rd and o/d gears only; bad solenoid #2 will cause car to be at first gear until 45 mph is reached then the car will shift to o/d. Normally the car should shift to second gear at 15 mph at 2500 rpms, then to the third at 25-30 mph and 2500 rpm and to the o/d at 40-45 mph and 2500 rpm (figures for my car with tired engine).
Last edited by Doctor J; 09-01-2010 at 08:19 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Doctor J For This Useful Post:
Doctor J, and all the great souls in this forum...
I'm inclined to think that low pressure as other people have suggested to be the cause of the delayed engagement. Since, I have no tools/equipment to test the lines, I'm thinking that the best thing to do here is to take car to the shop and have them do it. I do think that the solenoids are working OK.
Before number 1 was replaced the car had sluggish acceleration between 15 mph to 50 mph. Now, after replacing #1, the transmission barely engages and when it does it is at high rpm.
If the lines have low pressure, then I would think that all gears would have
a hard time to engage, am I correct? So, I think I should take it to the shop. What do you think?
Thanks
The object of this test is to check the overall performance of the transaxle and engine by measuring the stall speeds in the D and R ranges.
Caution:
-Perform the test at Normal operating fluid temp (122 - 176 *F)
-Do not continuously run this test longer than 5 seconds
-To ensure safety, conduct this test in a wide, clear, level area which provides good traction
1)Measure Stall Speed
a)Chock front and rear wheels
b)Connect a Tach to the engine (or just look at the one on your dash)
c)Fully apply the parking brake
d)Step down strongly on the brake pedal with your left foot
e)Start the engine
f)Shift into the D range. Step all the way down on the accelerator pedal with your right foor. Quickly read the stall speed at this time.
Stall Speed 2,200 RPM +/- 150 RPM
g) Perform the same test in R range
There are a multitude of possibilities. I am assuming your drive will be higher than normal which Toyota says can be caused by :
-Low line pressure
-Forward clutch slipping
-No. 2 one-way clutch no operating properly
-o/d one way clutch not operating properly.
I think honestly that your forward clutch is probably slipping being that the car sounds like it will eventually move a little at higher rpm.
Also Try L. If it works in L then that would eliminate your forward clutch slipping.
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