1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
when i floor the accelerator, whether from standstill or while driving, the engine makes this deep lazy sound and just doesn't feel like its making the power it should at WOT.
on the other hand, if i go 3/4 on the throttle, it accelerates way better and engine sounds proper like it should.
is this tunning related (rich mixture causing the engine to kinda bog) or could it be my tranny causing this?
also noticed it consumes gas alot less at night, even when i am doing my "spirited driving", the fuel needle barely moves as opposed to driving like that in the hot sunny daytime. donno if this is the norm for all engines.
Sounds like your timing is off. My current 4 Cylinder is also like this because we advanced the timing too much.
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2009 Toyota Venza V6 FWD
1991 Toyota Camry V6 LE
1987 Toyota Camry LE
1989 Toyota Camry Base (Retired)
1993 Ford F-350 XLT 4WD Lifted
This could be your timing and it could also be your tranny. If your fluid is low and not at proper pressure you can experience this. When was the last time you changed your transmission fluid and what fluid type are you using?
@ animated mechanic: now that you mentioned timing, i've been putting off gettin it checked for the longest time. i get a ecl light when i continuously accelerate, when i back off the throttle, the light goes out. i don't have any friends with a timing light, so i have to go to a garage with one.
@darwin 686: i changed my tranny fluid earlier this year when i dismounted it to change my engine rear crank seal. the car felt alot better after i did this, although i didn't change the filter in the tranny. but still, at wot it just doesn't give than kick. gonna check the timing and see if it makes a difference. just that work doesn't allow me much time during the days
@ animated mechanic: now that you mentioned timing, i've been putting off gettin it checked for the longest time. i get a ecl light when i continuously accelerate, when i back off the throttle, the light goes out. i don't have any friends with a timing light, so i have to go to a garage with one.
@darwin 686: i changed my tranny fluid earlier this year when i dismounted it to change my engine rear crank seal. the car felt alot better after i did this, although i didn't change the filter in the tranny. but still, at wot it just doesn't give than kick. gonna check the timing and see if it makes a difference. just that work doesn't allow me much time during the days
yup get your timing checked sounds like your off by at least two.
With no luck finding a shop with a timing light (work hours kept me from a good searching), I resorted to doing it by ear, plus the mpg is terrible and I can't have that. Today after work , i warmed the engine, Took it for a spin to get it at operating temp. Loosened the 12" bolt on the dizzy and turned it counter clockwise just a tad. Immediately, the engine idle became more calm. Took it for a spin and noticed when it was floored, as opposed to before, I could feel the engine pull now (still tempted to retard it just a bit more, I still hear that deep growl, but at least now it pulls and doesn't feel like it's losing power). Haven't checked if the ECL will still come on yet cuz I haven't got any stretch of road nearby long and straight enough but i'll get to that later. Also, I was REAAAALY hoping that maybe the timing which was over-advanced was the culprit in hindering my tranny from allowing the engine to rev to redline before shifting when i floored it (maybe like a failsafe), but it still just shifts at 2,300rpm (3000rpm in PWR mode). I welcome any suggestion on what to check on that problem.
Another update. Turns out that recent adjustment was not as good as i thought, when i drove home, the car felt a bit worse when i floored it and still showed me the ECL. In addition if i moved off from a standstill, the car felt like it was missing before the power came on! When i reached at my folks house, i started playing with the timing a bit and i realised when i advanced it more, the same bogged down sound and feel goes away, and the car accelerates like it was on steroids. BUT, it makes makes this deep poping sound in the engine at idle when in Nuetral or Park (Not so audible when in D). iT can also be heard in the tailpipe (puffing in the tailpipe). When i retard the timing, the popping sound subsides. Hope someone can guide me here.
Well last night, i got it at an adjustment that feels good. Car feels good and i don't feel the missing/sputtering before the power comes on when i move off from a standstill, neither do i get that bag of noise and no action when i floor it. CEL still comes on tho. Brings me back to somethign i read in "Modern Automotive Technology" by James Duffy, and also the gen2 Service Manual. If the plastic inside the distributor (after you remove the dist cap) that protects the coil is broken, it can leak current. Mine is cracked, hell, there's a chunk missing. I'm wondering if that's my prob. Maybe i should get the dizzy serviced?
Does the CEL come on and stay on? If so, check the codes and report back.
Also, you probably need to replace everything in your ignition system - plugs, wires/cap, rotor and coil...
-Charlie
I was thinking the same thing. The car's probably in need of an ignition system servicing. The CEL comes on only when the engine goes under load ie. after heavy acceleration (doesn't come on immediately, but maybe seconds after) or climbing a hill. It doesn't stay on. If i back off the throttle a little, it goes out. If i stay on the throttle it stays on longer and goes out eventually
Changed my fuel filter last night and i can't believe how better the engine feels when pulling... that stuff was blocked up... Just a thought tho... is it possible a jumped timing belt could cause the ecl and also be affecting the wot as well...? cuz the belt on the engine is the one i bought the car with... i have a new belt at home with a cam and crank seal ... just haven't got the time to change it right now
I found another problem... i think this is what's been causing a little missing when moving off from a standstill... and my terrible fuel consumption...
i found engine oil on the threading for the spark plug in #1 cylinder... the electrodes don't look fouled... but the rim under the threading does... i have a pic...
i tried to tighten the nut holding on the valve cover...but i noticed it can be tightened more... can doing this correct the oil issue?
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