! stuck spark plug not plug wire & timing belt /waterpump question

[sayers74]

Driving home last, the old cam (298000 miles) started runnin a lil more hot than normal (about half way vs. quarter way).It also seems as though Ive lost some power too. So i figure Im probably low on coolant Ill top it off when i get home (30 miles) & I crank the heater on. The heat is hot so i know I have some water in there. About 5 miles later it goes up to 3/4 on the temp. gauge.

So I go to pull into a gas station.Now Its in the red. I kill the engine, & pop the rad. press. release valve. Nothing. Wow it must be really low. I get some water, start the car & start adding water(with engine running ). theres a racket coming from the engine now.I figure its cuz its still hot. I sit for 30 mins. & try to add water again(with engine running ) Its coming out of the water pump seep hole. So the water pump is shot.

It gets towed home.

In the morning I start it again, noise is still there (sounds bad, like metal sounds) I turn it off.

I hadnt let it run more than the time to put water in it or listen for the noise since the over heat.

So I start the water pump r/r today. Seems like its gonna be a pain in the ____!


Im progressing semi smoothly up until the crank pully( i need the correct puller) 4 out of 5 bolts lesss than 3/8 broke off. Nothing important yet that I cant drill out .

After removing the upper timing cover. My timing belt has about 2 inches deflection in it. Isnt this supposed to be fairly tight? maybe 1/2 in. deflection?

So what Im thinking is the water pump went out, leaked on the tm for who knows how long and last night the wp finally said goodbye along w/ the tensioner which caused my tm to jump a tooth, loose power, and the tesioner being loose s the noise im hearing. Thoughts anyone?




As far as the spark plug, I have never changed them out. Upon removing them #3 got really hard to turn after about 1/2 a turn. II tried to tighten it back but its just as hard to turn back. I m afraid Im going to snap it if I apply much more force.I dont HAVE to take it out now but I would like to change it at some point.Theres also about 1 inch of oil in plug hole so i dont see how penetrating oil could reach the threads if the (spilt?) oil being heated & cooled 100 s of times wouldnt coat the threads.
Any ideas on what to do to not end up having to pull head from broken plug?



1991 toyota camry dx
2.0
298000 mi.

Over all its been a great car.
Paid $900 for it 3 years ago w/ 183000 mi. on it.
replaced 1 axle, 1 radiator, hoses & belts, 3 alternators, 1 control arm, and lots of tires.


Thanks in advance.

[MR2Jedi]

Check your tensioner. Timing Belt should be very tight, with almost no play. The failed water pump may have caused stretching.
As far as the spark plug, I would still try penetrating oil. It may end up breaking or stripping the threads.
Upon reinstall of new plugs, use antiseize on plug threads.

[Darwin686]

Originally Posted by sayers74

Driving home last, the old cam (298000 miles) started runnin a lil more hot than normal (about half way vs. quarter way).It also seems as though Ive lost some power too. So i figure Im probably low on coolant Ill top it off when i get home (30 miles) & I crank the heater on. The heat is hot so i know I have some water in there. About 5 miles later it goes up to 3/4 on the temp. gauge.

So I go to pull into a gas station.Now Its in the red. I kill the engine, & pop the rad. press. release valve. Nothing. Wow it must be really low. I get some water, start the car & start adding water(with engine running ). theres a racket coming from the engine now.I figure its cuz its still hot. I sit for 30 mins. & try to add water again(with engine running ) Its coming out of the water pump seep hole. So the water pump is shot.

It gets towed home.

In the morning I start it again, noise is still there (sounds bad, like metal sounds) I turn it off.

I hadnt let it run more than the time to put water in it or listen for the noise since the over heat.

So I start the water pump r/r today. Seems like its gonna be a pain in the ____!


Im progressing semi smoothly up until the crank pully( i need the correct puller) 4 out of 5 bolts lesss than 3/8 broke off. Nothing important yet that I cant drill out .

After removing the upper timing cover. My timing belt has about 2 inches deflection in it. Isnt this supposed to be fairly tight? maybe 1/2 in. deflection?

So what Im thinking is the water pump went out, leaked on the tm for who knows how long and last night the wp finally said goodbye along w/ the tensioner which caused my tm to jump a tooth, loose power, and the tesioner being loose s the noise im hearing. Thoughts anyone?




As far as the spark plug, I have never changed them out. Upon removing them #3 got really hard to turn after about 1/2 a turn. II tried to tighten it back but its just as hard to turn back. I m afraid Im going to snap it if I apply much more force.I dont HAVE to take it out now but I would like to change it at some point.Theres also about 1 inch of oil in plug hole so i dont see how penetrating oil could reach the threads if the (spilt?) oil being heated & cooled 100 s of times wouldnt coat the threads.
Any ideas on what to do to not end up having to pull head from broken plug?



1991 toyota camry dx
2.0
298000 mi.

Over all its been a great car.
Paid $900 for it 3 years ago w/ 183000 mi. on it.
replaced 1 axle, 1 radiator, hoses & belts, 3 alternators, 1 control arm, and lots of tires.


Thanks in advance.

Well you've got some work ahead of you. The water pump is shot you need to replace your timing belt and now the real pain in the ass. The oil in the spark plug tube is gonna be a pain in the ass. The only way to fix this issue is with what toyota calls a SST aka special service tool. You can improvise but your need to download a manual for this one. Remove the valve cover hey while your in there change out the valve cover gasket and if yoru distributor is leaking oil around, a very common spot for oil leaks with this car go ahead and pull your distributor and change the o-ring. Well anyhow the pipes that your spark plus are in are not at proper torge anymore so you need to tighten them down I belive it is 29pounds per sq ft. So first remove them and get the oil out. Put them back in at proper torque and your good to go. Put the valve cover back on and tighten in sequence to 17 pounds per sq ft. This will take care of this problem. It happens after they rack up plenty of miles Also while the tube is off you can easily get your spark plug out. I wish you the best of luck bud.

[sayers74]

I thought the belt should be tighter than it is.(bad tensioner!! i only have the top cover off so far. Just really scared off what that noise is..hopefully just the tensioner

[sayers74]

I really dont even care about the oil being there. I figure it will go into the combustion chambers when & if that plug comes out. Only reason i said there was oil in there to state it as far as spraying it w/ penetrating oil. Im sure i can crank it more it just seems as though its really hard not like the other 3. you get that feeling like when your removing wheel lugs by hand & you get one that comess off really hard, harder, hardest, then easy cuz you broke it.

Does the valve cover come off with the plugs er plug in?


I guess im looking for someone to say "do this & itll all be ok" but i really know its gonna break & open a whole new can of worms besides the waterpump

[Darwin686]

Originally Posted by sayers74

I really dont even care about the oil being there. I figure it will go into the combustion chambers when & if that plug comes out. Only reason i said there was oil in there to state it as far as spraying it w/ penetrating oil. Im sure i can crank it more it just seems as though its really hard not like the other 3. you get that feeling like when your removing wheel lugs by hand & you get one that comess off really hard, harder, hardest, then easy cuz you broke it.

Does the valve cover come off with the plugs er plug in?


I guess im looking for someone to say "do this & itll all be ok" but i really know its gonna break & open a whole new can of worms besides the waterpump

The clace cover is held into place with 4 32mm bolts that goes around the spark plugs, you might want to address the oil only because of two things. the oil is non conductive enough oil in your spark plug boot is going to make it ride ruff when you can't get the spark plug to fire anymore. So you have found an under laying problem as well. The oil is being pushed out of the combustion chamber into the tubes. If you already have oil in the tube penatrating oil is not going to help you much it might but don't hold your breath on it. Your plug could be somewhat stuck from particualte from the dirty oil being pushed around it. Also there is a possibility that someone put the plug in and cross threaded it before you got the car. It is REALLY easy to do with this one.

As for your water pump more than likely is the tensioner unless your water pump has fallen apart. Take it out and see what you have going on and then you will have a better idea as to what the sound is.

[sayers74]

The clace cover is held into place with 4 32mm bolts that goes around the spark plugs, you might want to address the oil only because of two things. the oil is non conductive enough oil in your spark plug boot is going to make it ride ruff when you can't get the spark plug to fire anymore. So you have found an under laying problem as well. The oil is being pushed out of the combustion chamber into the tubes.

From where?


If you already have oil in the tube penatrating oil is not going to help you much it might but don't hold your breath on it.


my thoughts exactly


Your plug could be somewhat stuck from particualte from the dirty oil being pushed around it. Also there is a possibility that someone put the plug in and cross threaded it before you got the car.

Thats what I think & im afraid to be right.Iver never broken or x threaded a plug in all my cars.Have you ever had to deal with a strpped plug hole or broken plug? Seems to ne that requires head removal to ream & repair w/o getting bad stuff in the cc.


It is REALLY easy to do with this one.

What? Fix? or cross thread?


As for your water pump more than likely is the tensioner unless your water pump has fallen apart. Take it out and see what you have going on and then you will have a better idea as to what the sound is.


Im on it when i get the crank puller tool.

[Darwin686]

Originally Posted by sayers74

The clace cover is held into place with 4 32mm bolts that goes around the spark plugs, you might want to address the oil only because of two things. the oil is non conductive enough oil in your spark plug boot is going to make it ride ruff when you can't get the spark plug to fire anymore. So you have found an under laying problem as well. The oil is being pushed out of the combustion chamber into the tubes.

From where?
Oil is coming up fromthe block though the threads of the sparkplug tube.

If you already have oil in the tube penatrating oil is not going to help you much it might but don't hold your breath on it.


my thoughts exactly


Your plug could be somewhat stuck from particualte from the dirty oil being pushed around it. Also there is a possibility that someone put the plug in and cross threaded it before you got the car.

Thats what I think & im afraid to be right.Iver never broken or x threaded a plug in all my cars.Have you ever had to deal with a strpped plug hole or broken plug? Seems to ne that requires head removal to ream & repair w/o getting bad stuff in the cc.


It is REALLY easy to do with this one.

What? Fix? or cross thread?
Very easy to cross thread

As for your water pump more than likely is the tensioner unless your water pump has fallen apart. Take it out and see what you have going on and then you will have a better idea as to what the sound is.


Im on it when i get the crank puller tool.

[sayers74]

I just found & read the sticky on it. Thx

[sayers74]

UPDATE!!

I got the harmonic balancer puller, got that off & the old wp. The wp bearing was toast & the idler wasnt far behind. TB had lots of dry rot looking cracks. Still progressing, got the cam seal changed & the water pump put back in(not tightened yet)

This is 1 hell of a pita.

When it comes to water pumps , gimme a rear wheel drive !!

lol

[Doctor J]

For leak-free operation the water pump must be removed as complete unit (pump with cover); then the pump part itself should be changed, and pump assembly is installed with new o-rings. Removal only the pump and leaving its cover on the car will result in leak between the pump cover and engine block

[sayers74]

I did remove the whole assembly as per the fsm, but i couldnt get the bolts to start w/ it assembled, so i mounted the inner piece loosely , then installed tighten ed the wp outer assembly. i hope it dont leak. I dont have a small torque wrench so im guessing on the tightness. The fsm says 79 in lbs. it feels as though the bolts just keep turning w/o getting too tight( they are snug). I dont wanna break or strip em so ill be getting a 1/4 in torque wrench next.

[sayers74]

update! Finally got back to the camry today. Got a 1/4 in torgue wrench . Put everything back together , started spinning my cranks 2 times to be sure marks stayed aligned an it wont let me go between 15 deg btdc or 15 deg atdc . I can spin the crank the rest of the way around no problem either way. Any suggestions on why the crank refuses to turn the the spot i need ? There is 1 plug installed still. I took the tb back off & its the crank thats holding up progress.

Any suggestions?



ps 91 camry 3sfe

[atobe]

remove that plug it's probbly that piston on it's compression stroke to keep you from going to 0tdc

[sayers74]

Originally Posted by atobe

remove that plug it's probbly that piston on it's compression stroke to keep you from going to 0tdc

That plug is seized in the head. Its not like it gets harder to turn, it just stops. Will turn about 330 degress either direction but not 15 btdc to 15 atdc.