2nd generation (1990) Rack and pinion repleacement (SV21) - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 11-05-2010, 03:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2nd Generation 2nd generation (1990) Rack and pinion repleacement (SV21)

Hi all,

This is my first post.
Recently when driving in the highway my steering suddenly got really stiff, barely turning. Before it was having this problem where the steering wheel would vibrate strong when breaking at high speeds.
A mechanic I trust told me the rack and pinion went bad, but just in case I was wondering how can I myself check if its really it the problem?
Since I'm broke, I'm going to attempt to replace the rack and pinion myself, so I got the SFM. I think I understand the steps very well except the one about matchmarking the uni joint. What is exactly that I have to do?
Any other advice on the job would be greatly appreciated.
Aloha from hawaii.
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Check the fluid level and check the pump; either one of those can cause heavy steering.

You mark the uni joint so it's in the same position in relation two the two shafts it comes off. I've been told it's supposed to look like it's in the exact same position from lock to lock, or as close to it.

Get some white out and draw a line on the steering column spline to the uni joint, don't bother doing the rack as you're swapping it. Just make sure you keep the steering wheel straight and put the rack on with the tie rods 'straight'. Don't don't really need to take it off, just undo the pinch bolt and slide it further up the steering column shaft.

Here's a thread that will help out a little:
How to:Power steering conversion/Rack removal 2nd Gen (may apply to other Gens)
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi Jimnist,
Thanks for the help. The fluid is the first thing I checked and it was OK. The pump was replaced by mechanic 6 months ago, should be OK. Looking underneath rack/pinion look kinda of weird from pics I've seen...
Today I undid the tie rod - rack joint, tomorrow I go under.
I'll probably have more questions later on when I actually get to the uni-rack part.
Aloha
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Mine leaks like crazy all over my garage floor! Not really as bad as I would think because I only go through about 1 bottle of power steering fluid every couple months. But there's a huge puddle in my garage (I laid down cardboard until I buy one of those big aluminum drip pans).

I do NOT look forward to changing my steering rack! Not that it's hard, there's really not that many bolts. Just that it's a pain in the butt and takes awhile and will be a messy job because of my leak.

So I've decided to replace my steering rack the same time I change my axles. That way I'll only have to have my front end torn out 1 time instead of twice. I'll get everything under there replaced at the same time since all the steering stuff has to be unbolted anyway. My little project isn't going to happen until I get a 2nd car next month. I can't afford to be without a car for more than a day or two, and I don't have anyone who is willing to help me from start to finish.

Good luck with yours!

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Old 11-07-2010, 12:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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remove splash covers (lowe crossmember)

Hi,

got my ass kicked today, couldn't undo the bolts of the splash covers under the car (manual calls it lower crossmember). the torque on those bolts are 2,110 kg-cm (153ft-lb, 207N.m). I guess I require a longer hatched/extension bar? The one I have is 7 1/2 in long (3in extension).

My other question is about removing the fluid pressure and return tubes: When loosen then I imagine fluid will leak out, should I let it drain it all out or pinch it closed? Then what is the procedure to put fluid back in the sys w/o air?

Any advice much appreciated. Aloha
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