So here is a good few questions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Zorks · 11-05-2010, 02:04 PM

Hey Guys and Gals.

so my 88 camry all-trac has a few issues that I am smacking my head against the wall about. Now I have read other forum posts here and answers but none of which have been the same answer to solve my problems.

First off. My reverse lights do not light, bulbs are new, no broken wires at hinge, and no power at the wiring at trunk for reverse. tail's all work and break. so am I looking at the tranny for the switch or is there a fuse that actually controlls that. I can not find that info on All Data or mitchell so far.

Second. I have a random misfire with no check engine light. when set as mfg says it should be. it misses at Idle and also have very irradic Idle. it changes per start. one time a solid 1k rpm idle, another time 750 to 850 with misfire, or it will throttle it's self twice and then go to 850 and have a misfire. I have advanced the timing and that makes the misfire happen hard while in motion at 2k and above. mpg's do not seem to be a problem. but this is also a rebuilt engine b4 my ownership.

I have unplugged the tps and no change, no light. the afm sensor, no change other than on cold start. plug wire one removed, no change in preformance of engine at all. cleaned and replace all fuel injectors and no change. replaced cap rotor and wires. no change. new dist and coil. no change. But if a dollar bill is behind the exhaust pipe. it is a out push for five then it sucks iit in twice then blows out.

Thinking valve . Compression is 168 per cyclinder. any Idea's?

atobe · 11-05-2010, 03:12 PM

#1. i'm not sure if this applies to the all-trac trans but for the FWD camry the reverse switch is built-in to the neutral safety switch.. but since it's a different trans i can only suggest you this to try.
Removing and cleaning the Neutral Start Switch may be charlie will chime in later since he has an all-trac.

white90dx · 11-05-2010, 05:34 PM

Does the check engine light ever come on? (engine stopped, key in 'on' position, etc.)

I didn't see plugs in your replacement list. Get the basic NGK copper plugs - they work very well and are REALLY cheap (I use them on my 300+hp cars too...).

Unplugging the AFM should stop the motor and cause check-engine lights. Unplugging the TPS may or may not...

Compression sounds good.

Backup light switch is inside the neutral start switch on the auto trans (front bottom) or the backup light switch on the manual trans (top, two wire plug). Either way, power is fed from the 'gauge' fuse to the switch then to the tail lights. Also check the grounds for the lights to make sure that is working.

-Charlie

Zorks · 11-06-2010, 11:38 AM

So the chk engine light comes on in on position. and plugs a brand new NGK. and no the engine does not stall out with the amf unplugged and no chk engine light. and at the tail of the intake plenum it has 15 to 16 psi vacuum.

Also regarding the reverse lights. the " Lights " light is on for 2 minutes at first start when in reverse, so I would think there is power to the switch if my logic is right.

And another ? Charlie, my diff lock switch, when pushed in ( have no chk'd the bulb yet) the indicator for the lock in does not light and I do not notice a differance in traction or power?

white90dx · 11-08-2010, 01:43 PM

Wow, pretty much nothing you are saying matches any of my experience with my Alltrac or other two Camrys...

If the rear light warning light comes on, it should stay on until the car is turned off. This indicates a problem in the rear running lights (not the side markers though) or the brake lights (all 5 bulbs). It will not indicate a fault in the reverse lights or turn signals.

Based on your comment on the diff lock button, I'm assuming you have a manual trans (and I think the '88 Alltrac was only available in an manual...). The reverse light switch is located on the top of the transmission and should have a Red wire with blue tracer that has +12V when the car is on, and Red wire with black tracer that gets +12V (through the switch) only when the car is in reverse. You can also check this by unplugging the switch, putting the car in reverse (with the car off!) and seeing if there is continuity across the switch.

I'm not sure where to start on the diff lock button. I have an auto and the system has always worked for me just fine (it auto-locks when slip is detected). Great for snow!

I can't think of the next place to go with your engine diagnosis... though, unplugging cyl 1 not making a difference seems like a good hint. Does the engine change with removing any other plug wire?

-Charlie

Zorks · 11-08-2010, 08:35 PM

ok, so any other cyl causes huge misfire. O, so the reverse light was a case of replaceing the actual plug for the the tranny to harness. Yes it is the manual.

So here is another factor in the engine. It after reaching full temp it rev's 850 to 1200 a few times and then goes stead again ( with misfire).

white90dx · 11-09-2010, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorks

ok, so any other cyl causes huge misfire. O, so the reverse light was a case of replaceing the actual plug for the the tranny to harness. Yes it is the manual.

So here is another factor in the engine. It after reaching full temp it rev's 850 to 1200 a few times and then goes stead again ( with misfire).

Well, that really points to cyl 1 being the problem, whether it is the plug (swap between cylinders), injector (swap between cylinders) or ignition wire (check with multimeter and/or replace again).

For the rev'ing problem, I think you should try to fix the misfire first, though cleaning out the throttle body and idle air controller (on the bottom of the throttle body) are a good idea anyway.

-Charlie