crank wont turn full 360 degrees

[sayers74]

This is kind of a double post but a different problem on the same job if that makes any sense. Anyways my original thread here

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...=1#post3383078



cliffs notes = wp started leaking , doin tb / wp r/r

Heres my new problem..

I installed the water pump and the timing belt. Marks seemed dead on ( took a few tries to get the belt where you want it)

quadruple checked as per fsm & timing marks, still good.

tried to rotate the engine 720 degrees w/ a ratchet on crank bolt , started turning, all was good. turned to about 15 degrees atdc its like i hit a stop. Not gradual like compression building up (3 of the 4 plugs are unscrewed sitting in the holes, 1 is seized,another time).

So i reverse spinning the crank ccw. this direction stops at about the same spot opposite the 0 mark 15 degrees btdc.

I removed the timing belt & water pump but my crank will still not turn the full 360. I have also tried w/ the cam at mark on head, +90 degrees, +180 degrees, and 270 degrees. cam seems to turn ok. ( a lil resistance, then springing ahead x 4)

I got on the bolt pretty hard trying to turn it to 0 btdc, but it isnt happening. i dont want to hit it w/ the starter for fear of damaging the engine.

car was running ok besides the water pump leaking & making a racket. (the bearing was toast, lots of play)

1991 camry 2.0 auto

any ideas ?

[yotaforce]

It sound like you may have got them off.... look at the belt for two marks... there WILL be two that run across the belt (the shortest distance not round the three ft circle) one will go on the crank and one, or two for a dual overhead cam, at the cam pulley. and make sureyou have the correct marks in the correct spots. and for gods sake DO NOT USE YOUR STARTER TILL YOU CAN ROTATE 720 DEGREES!!! it is an interference engine and happiness will not prevail if your not dead on.

[sayers74]

My fsm says it is NOT an interference engine. So does gates website.

I cant turn the crank to 0 degrees regardless of the cam position. (just 1)

[white90dx]

I don't think this would matter... but have you tried putting the transmission in neutral?

Otherwise, with nothing attached to the bottom end (only turning the crank, rods and pistons) there should be nothing in the way. I can confirm the 3s-fe (and 2vz-fe for that matter) are non-interferance engines.

The last thing would be to get that last spark plug out and check for damage/obstructions in the cylinders.

-Charlie

[sayers74]

Its an auto so I wouldnt think the tranny in park would make a diff. , but ill try it.. Its so weird because it was lined up perfect, turned it as fsm, then it stopped well before hitting tdc again.....dam car!

[sayers74]

the engine is on the jack still, maybe that leaked down & slanted the engine too much? Its been about a month since this journey started. I read a post that a guy had his plugs out for 2 weeks & had the same problem as me. He ended up cranking w/ the starter & it supposedly broke thru the surface rust..I dont trust it.

there was some oil in the plug tubes, when i pulled the plugs it drained into the cylinder. I didnt think it would hurt since its oil itll just burn off. there wasnt much, but i dont know how much it would take to hydro lock it.

also being that I can turn the crank all ways except 15 before to 15 after tdc , it would seem as though if the oil caused the problem, #1 and # 4 are both close to tdc.
Oil doesnt compress?

to debate my self, w/ the plugs removed, there shouldnt ever be a hydrolock in any case.

thoughts?

[PaulPR]

No expert here, but I'm thinking something dropped down inside one of the cylinders. If it were me, I'd pull the valve cover and take a look to see if all the valves are going up/down as they should.

I'm thinking at #1 TDC, both #1 and #4 are at the top of their stroke.

You mentioned some serious metal noise in your previous post. I'm thinking perhaps that was more than just the water pump.

[sayers74]

Ive pulled the valve cover as seems normal. put trans in neutral. no change. Everthing looks correct. Im tempted to just crank the starter & see what happens.....bing,clunk, crack,pop, nothin...lol Thats what ll probably happen.

just the crank pulley turning by itself moves the connecting rods, which are attached to the pistons.. its a non interference engine so the valves should have any thing to do w/ the crank turning. I looked thru the cylinders w/ a borescope. it gets me right to where the plug goes in (5/8) it looked fine. No shiny spots, pieces of anything. just a lil carbon. I could even see the depressions i the pistons for the valves.



I tried turning it w/ the rachet fast & it still stops but there isnta sound of metal or anything, but it stops.

[PaulPR]

Sure would be nice to get that #1 plug out and run the boroscope down there.

[sayers74]

#1 plug is out * I have looked. All looked good #3 is the stuck plug.My boroscope diameter is 15.9 mm & the plug hole is 13.7.

[PaulPR]

my bad, I thought the stuck one was #1. Since 2 and 3 would be at the bottom of their stroke when 1 and 4 are up you'd think 2 and 3 are fine. Sounds like you're saying all you can see with the scope is the area directly below the plug.

The only thing I can think of is there's something inside cylinders 1 or 4. If you have a stethescope you could try having someone turn the engine over w/ a ratchet while you listen at 1 and 4 plug holes. and see if you can hear anything.

Hopefully somone w/ more experience with chime in.

Good luck - I'll be interested to hear the outcome.

[PaulPR]

I had another idea for you. Take a soda straw/or small dia tubing and a shop vac and see if you can find anything in #1 or #4. You'd probably be able to access more of the piston top w/ the piston part/all the way down.

W/ the piston all the way down , can you see the whole top of the piston w/ the boroscope?

[sayers74]

I could see most of the piston . Ill have to get a better look when I have more time & light.