My experience lies only with front wheel drive.
While doing the axles, I would have a look at:
Tie rod ends
Tie rod inners (I think that means the whole rack if one is bad)
Ball joints
Wheel bearing seals
Wheel bearings (they have to be pressed in, so you might consider a new steering knuckle already with bearing by the time you pay for a bearing and labor at a machine shop)
I would look at the control arm bushings - where the sway bar goes through the control arm. I have a recent post about that.
I would look at the bushings at the pivot point of the control arm under the car body. You may do well financially to buy a whole new control arm fully loaded if more than one component is bad among the ball joint or either of those bushings.
If you have any leaking components of your power steering, this could be a good time to fix that.
If your front brake rotor looks like mine did (metal against metal) then it's time for a brake job.
Not sure about the All Trac, but on my car, the passenger side axle is held in place by a bracket.
The driver side is held in by a compression ring or compression snap ring. This makes it a pain in the rear to remove or install. Rent or buy a slide hammer with a large enough puller to get around the outer part of the CV joint. Pull the rest of the axle off so you leave only the bell thing stabbed in the transaxle. Grab it with your pullers and give it a few taps, it should pop out.
To get the new one in, I use grease to help keep the stupid compression ring centered as it goes through the transaxle splines. I put the old axle nut on the end to protect the threads (the nut protrudes from the end of the shaft) and give it some gentle but firm taps with a sledge. Hammering the end of a shaft is rarely really a good idea, even with relatively light hits it causes some distortion a few inches into the shaft. (Just like when you press on a marshmallow the sides have to get fatter.) If it doesn't go in after about 2 hits, then remove and check the ring again.
The axle nut is 30mm and I had trouble finding a socket that was 30mm and also had a small enough outer diameter to fit inside the center of the brake rotor. I think I ground one down a bit with a grinding wheel. It's a special socket just for that job.
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Yea’ your right the whole pass side and firewall / rear motor compartment are wet, the rack & pinion is saturated with oil as well. I am going to do a thorough cleaning and inspect for a bad PS line/hose, 
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