Cosmetic fixes on wiper arms and center console - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
» Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > 1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)

1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

ToyotaNation.com is the premier Toyota Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-23-2010, 07:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
New TN User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 40
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 5 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View 89Camry89's Photo Gallery
Cosmetic fixes on wiper arms and center console

The past few weeks I spent some time fixing up some non-mechanical parts of the car. 1989 Camry LE Sedan (3SFE)

Here is a summary of my repairs to a broken center console piece and rusty windshield wiper arms.


I had been noticing that the center console armrest was not firm. It would flex slightly and that bugged me.

I took it all apart to find several cracks and breaks. I think it broke as someone climbed between the front seats. Knowing that could

potentially happen again, I wanted to give it a hefty repair.





First I superglued things in place just to act as a short term bond while I worked on something more serious.





I fashioned this piece of metal from a medium gauge piece of furnace duct. The large holes are the allow for the plastic spacer circles

you see. Those help hold the gap between this top piece and the inner plastic piece which you can see later. The numerous small holes are

just to allow resin to pass through a make a firmer repair.





By this point I've applied a bottom coat of fiberglass pieces and resin, the metal plate, and a top coat of fiberglass and resin. It was

all done at the same time, no hardening in between.





By now the resin has hardened and it is ready for the next step. I was deliberate to keep all of these materials shallow enough so as not

to interfere with the inner plastic piece that appears in the next step.




The lid of the console is now assembled. In this photo you can see that my striker plate (latch) is broken. A replacement is on my list

of things to do but those little things are kind of expensive.





Everything is reassembled and put back into place in the car. It's quite firm and rigid now!




Inside the console I didn't like how noisy things were as they slid and rolled around. I carefully cut a piece of foam core to fit exactly

in place and then glued a layer of speaker box carpet to the foam core. Much less noise from there now and it looks nice. It can be

removed if necessary.




Next, my windshield wiper arms have become rusty. This has been going on for months and this kind of thing really bothers me. I priced

replacement wiper arms from the dealer and they were around $170 each. Yeow!

I didn't find any aftermarket sources I guess owing to the age of the car.

Everybody and their brother suggests looking at junkyards. As far as I am concerned, it is no use. In my experience everything I've

brought home from a junkyard is JUNK! The cars I find there are never in as good of condition as my own vehicles and I have to put a lot

of energy into fixing the crap I bought before it's usable.

A few months ago I learned about rust removal by electrolysis and even tested it on some steel parts. I figure I could employ that

technique here.




Both wiper arms were in similar condition with this one being slightly worse.



After removing the wiper assembly, I brought it inside and began dismantling it.



I used a tiny grinder to grind off the ends of the pin that secure the outer arm to the inner arm mount piece.



Here is the process of electrolysis. The explanation of how to do this is beyond the scope of this post, but it is well documented on the

internet. It is ridiculously easy to do and it's amazing how it cleans old steel.



After 24-48 hours I have done each end of the arm. I sanded off any of the thin layer of black oxide (whatever that stuff is) that forms.

I wasn't concerned about removing all of the paint. Had the piece been more rusty I would have left it in to get it 100% bare steel. Of

course exposed steel begins to rust immediately so it is wise to paint it right away. I dried the water with a heat gun and hit it with

primer straight away. Within 3 minutes out of the solution the primer was on its way to drying.



I am no expert about paint, but from what I understand primer is permeable to air and moisture, so it only makes sense to complete the

project with a finish coat. I suppose a person could use a top coat to begin with, but I am a big fan of primers.



Here is a side by side comparison of the driver side arm and the passenger side arm.



Having cut away and destroyed the original pin, I had to fashion a new way to attach the arm. I picked up this nylon bushing and some

stainless steel screws from the hardware store. I couldn't get this bushing in a metric diameter, so it is going to take some tweaking to

make it fit. Thinking ahead, I bought this extra long screw. I held the screw at an angle so it would spin but still shave off material.

This ended up being quite slow going so it makes a lot more sense to use a grinding wheel, and that is what I did. Guess & check.



The diameter is now correct. Next I cut it to length slowly and carefully with an X-Acto razor.



A preview of the fit. As you can see in this image, the two sections have different sized holes. The outer arm part has very small holes.

The inner part has a larger hole, thus the need for the nylon bushing. It was kind of by chance that the inner diameter of that bushing

was nearly an exact fit to the metric screw that fit the outer arm holes. As you may imagine, the two holes mean that you can't push out

the original pin. You have to bend the outer arm part until you can make the pin clear, then try to gently bend it back to the perfect

spot. (Unless you are a machinist and you can drill out each end of the pin without damaging the outer arm section)



Here is my new "pin." Everything is stainless steel. I chose double nuts instead of a lock nut. It spends a lot of time outdoors, I

think the nylon of a stop nut might deteriorate. On many projects I will cut off the bolt to the exact length of the nut, but I left this

one alone. I may opt to make it prettier sometime later.



Another view of the same. I could have used washers too if I wanted to be more cautious not to marr the paint as I tightened the screw.



The arm is rejuvenated and reinstalled. I purchased new wiper blades in the midst of all this. I previously did not know, but learned

that the driver side blade is not supposed to be the same length as the passenger side. 19" versus 18"

As for the rust spot on the hood, I hope to remedy that some day.



The passenger side completed. The white powder on the window is snow.



Again, a before-and-after comparison.
89Camry89 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 89Camry89 For This Useful Post:
workerant (12-23-2010)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 12-23-2010, 11:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
dem2757's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 461
Gameroom cash: $274500
Thanks: 6
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View dem2757's Photo Gallery
That is very impressive. my wiper arms are rusting in the same spots, i think this is now on my to do radar. what paint did you use?
dem2757 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2010, 11:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
New TN User
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 40
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 5 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View 89Camry89's Photo Gallery
Thanks. The paint was nothing special. I think the primer was Krylon. I had a hard time finding primer in black. White, gray, and reddish color primers are prominent. The color name was "dark gray" but I would call it black.

The top coat was just a random non-cheapie black in matte finish. I got it at my friendly neighborhood hardware store that has everything. Every time I have gone with $0.99 spray paint, the nozzle pattern is crap and I get barely any coverage with it - probably thinned out a bunch.

I didn't document it here, but I also baked the paint at about 200 degrees for an hour. I don't know if that will actually help.

In 2 or 3 years I'll know if this job didn't swiftly rust through like rust fixes seem so prone to do.
89Camry89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2010, 07:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
dem2757's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Maryland
Posts: 461
Gameroom cash: $274500
Thanks: 6
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View dem2757's Photo Gallery
thanks man! the baking might make it less prone to the sun. thats pretty much how all the paint on this car gets brittle, it sits out in the sun and just soaks it up. but that matte black look is really nice, i can remove a ton of rust from small parts on my car now!

i hate how this thin sheet metal is eaten away so fast. i just wish this would fix my drivers side wheel well...
dem2757 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > 1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:23 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.