In need of a replacement lamp failure sensor

[KellyGirlKY]

Through these threads, my dad has been able to find out that the reason my tail lights don't work is the yellow lamp failure sensor box (located in trunk, near hitch).

Our local Toyota dealer wants to charge $242 for a new one. We're having trouble finding one at the local salvage yard. I would like to order a used or new one online to save time, but I've done searches for Lamp Failure, Electrical Relay, Tail Lamp Relay, Tail Light Relay, everything and I can't find anything! When I do a search on an auto parts website, nothing even remotely similar comes up in the scroll down boxes when you have to choose a part.

Does anyone have any suggestions on where I can order a new or used one? And what it would be called?

Thanks so much in advance!

P.S. The only cars I've ever owned are 2nd & 3rd generation Camrys

[vic]

Hi,
These modules are repairable.
I've had a lots of problems with this lamp setup anwill post tomorrow
as I have to report in now!! Vic

[csaxon]

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from...sensor&_sacat=

[KellyGirlKY]

I would GREATLY appreciate that! Thanks!

[vic]

Here are my experiences in trying to solve this problem.
1. The module is behind the cardboard trim piece on the drivers side of the trunk. It is mounted on a flat metal projection on
the vertical sheet metal member. This projection is parallel to the ground. Use a light leather glove on your left hand, grasp
the module (which is vertical) and wiggle and pull it toward the left side of the body. This operation is not a whole lot of fun!!
2. Once removed, pull the connector from the module by grasping the plastic loom connector.
3. Remove the circuit board from the yellow case by using 2 small screw drivers to gently pry the case over the projections on one side.
4. There are couple of "stickies" on this forum relating to this problem and they are a good starting point.
They describe bad solder joints on the module(and how to fix them) and grounding problems in the light units in the body(not the deck lid). Find these stickies and use them.
5.I ultimately determined that there is more to the problem than just the module and grounding.
I would lose my lights with a good module and, because I always traveled with a couple of repaired modules, would just switch one out
when one went "bad". But this just turned out to be serendipity. The problem was not always immediately solved with the switch.
6. The real problem,in my humble opinion, is the connector -- both sides of it. Both the male and female parts are made of what seems to be ordinary copper not a beryllium/copper alloy(which is a spring alloy). So contact between them is intermittent.

7. When I have a repaired module and still can't get lights (or lose them) then I bend two pins as described below:

a. Hold the module in your left hand with the connector facing you and up.
b. Use a pair of electronic duck billed pliers, bend the 2 left lower pins up slightly..so that their tips are just above the
two plastic parts to their immediate right.
c. Now plugging the connector in will be a real thrill but keep trying.
　
I do not regard this as a permanent solution. Just a way to get home. I'm going to get a good connector from the junkyard. I'll look at German cars to start with.
Vic