87 camry wagon - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

woodbutcher5691 · 01-22-2011, 10:22 PM

Sorry I can't get edit for some reason, Anyway it has a lever beside the E-brake that has " pull for emerengcy exit" WTF it's not a school bus

And there is some kind of memory under the steering column. I don't have a clue what this is

There is no book with with this car so I'll prolly be asking more about it. TIA Mike

Eugee · 01-23-2011, 02:43 AM

It's the emergency release for the automatic seat belts. No accidents, no worries.

woodbutcher5691 · 01-23-2011, 07:14 AM

O.K. Thanks, that's one mystery solved.

I won't get it home 'til next wk end (40 miles away).

It has 277,000 miles on the clock,It looks pretty good for it's age, just needs a good bath and vacuuming.

The plug wires look like the org. ones so that will be the first thing to replace. The clutch felt strong, it runs pretty good but not great. The battery had to be jumped off to drive it, After the drive, I shut it off and it wouldn't start up again. Would that possibly be the reason it's not running well? I know my old 280zx's don't do well at all with a low/dead battery(voltage sensitive)

are these the same way? Anything else I should check/replace besides the usuals? Thanks again, Mike

Sturdavj · 01-23-2011, 10:34 AM

No battery combined with a low voltage output from the Alternator may cause ruff.

But I am betting it is either poor spark, bad fuel (old gas), or combination of both

white90dx · 01-23-2011, 11:23 PM

If the motor doesn't crank when the key is turned, it is common problem. The starter solenoid needs pretty high voltage/current to get it going and the old wiring might be the problem (or just the starter contacts).

There's lots if info here:
*** READ FIRST *** - Official Gen 1 & 2 DIY and General Info Sticky!
(specifically in the 'starter relay' thread linked, but look at the other good info in there)

The ignition system would also be suspect at this age. It may need new everything to get it up to spec.... plugs, wires/cap, rotor and coil. Make sure you use the factory recommended NGK or Denso plugs. (Not Bosch or other brands!)

If you have the adjustable column, there are two levers. The one closest to you temporarily moves the column up, and plushing it back down locks it in the original place. The one farther from you is the standard 'move' lever.

-Charlie

woodbutcher5691 · 02-24-2011, 01:44 PM

O.K. I sprayed the IAC good with cleaner. Problem is when I try to rev it up, it smothers until it gets to around 3k rpm, then it revs like a raped ape. Also when I try to go up a hill, it smothers down until I let off the gas to just over an idle then it picks up power again. Any and all suggestions are much welcome.

white90dx · 02-25-2011, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodbutcher5691

O.K. I sprayed the IAC good with cleaner. Problem is when I try to rev it up, it smothers until it gets to around 3k rpm, then it revs like a raped ape. Also when I try to go up a hill, it smothers down until I let off the gas to just over an idle then it picks up power again. Any and all suggestions are much welcome.

Its the ignition system. Replace the plugs, wires+cap, rotor and ignition coil. Use OEM components wherever possible, they are much better than any aftermarket parts in this case.

The ignition coil is known to crack and short internally, which causes the problems you are describing.

-Charlie