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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-27-2011, 02:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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can I fix this power window????

My 90 Camry driver's side power window performed like a champ until last week when it suddenly stopped working. I can hear a slight sound when I push the button but no action. For the last 6 months, it had been making a thunk sound when it first starts going down. I see the motor and regulator are pretty cheap from Rockauto.com. I can change plugs, radios, oil but not a lot more skillful than that. What are my chances of replacing the motor and/or regulator on my own? My indie mechanic was asking $225.
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It's not a terribly hard job if you take your time. It's pretty simple take apart and put back together stuff. It's a good way to expand your horizon a bit mechanically too. I'd go for it.
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yea.

$225 sounds like a ...err decent price for the part and like maybe an hour and half....a lot of that price believe it or not is from labor time, unless he's gonna buy a new motor from the stealership and install it . If not, then it would be easier to just do it your own.

Just go to the junk yards and see if there is any camry of your year. Most times, as long as the generation is the same and has the same power options, it should fit. (e.g if your a X.5 gen, try stick with a x.5 gen, though any gen 2 should work unless they did some huge modification in the newer line - I don't know if a pwr motor will from an '87 to the '90, but I'm quite sure it would). Just make sure you compare the connectors. I'd also check the inside of the door for any rust too (along windows rails, lower part of door drain, near around door handles, etc)

You will need a basic tool kit...and I suggest a soft 'regular' (a.k.a flat tip tool' to prying off any bezel or what not. regular screw drivers are fine as long as you tape the end so it doesn't scrap surface.

I have not personally done a door regulator on a Gen2, but I believe you do have to take out the glass, so suggest you put that glass someplace safe
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I replaced my driver window motor several years ago for $45 for the new part in Long Beach, CA. Did the labor myself. While I was at it I Gorilla glued a piece of stiff board to the driver's armrest (underneath) to give support. Many elbows over the years had made a depression and hole in the armrest.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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more advice please

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zembonez View Post
It's not a terribly hard job if you take your time. It's pretty simple take apart and put back together stuff. It's a good way to expand your horizon a bit mechanically too. I'd go for it.
So I could get off the door cover easily enough but I'm not that sure about the next step. I see a steel cover under the liner, loaded with various bolts and screws to which the window innards I guess are attached. Too bad that I still can't see the regulator since I feel certain the regulator is the problem. Not intuitive to me what comes off next. I assume 4-6 bolts hold it to the door itself? I didn't see anything in the shop manual about how to proceed at this point or did I miss it somehow? Any advice on how to proceed without getting to a point where I can't put it back together again. Is the regulator and motor attached to this liner? Is it safe to assume that I can reassemble successfully anything that I take apart?

Mechanic revised estimate to $350 if the motor and regulator have to be changed. He was quoting a motor price of $120. Is it likely this is with the shop's markup? I thought I could get these a lot cheaper at Rockauto and I assume the shop wouldn't allow me to supply them parts that they can buy.
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Old 02-14-2011, 02:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The motor connector should be floating around there somewhere. If possible, disconnect it and jump 12V to it to see if you can activate the motor manually (without the switch). This would also help you in diagnosing any regulator mechanism probs. Likewise, check voltages at the connector. This will ensure that you have no switch or fuse problems.
The motor should be removable as an assembly without disturbing the regulator. You might want to pull away some of the protective plastic (the black adhesive goo is pretty tenacious even after 23 yrs, so be careful getting that stuff on your clothes).
Everything is done through various holes in the door metal. Barring the breakage of any parts (especially the little plastic retainer clips and such) or the deformation of any of the metal parts, everything you take apart should go back together.
There's no substitute for a trip to the junk yard to see one already in some state of disassembly.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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not the same car, but all the basics are covered. line the bolts with the holes up, tape the window up once its free, start unbolting the rest and wiggling out the regulator from the inside of the door if u are replacing that too. but yeah, do some diagnostics prior to just letting parts thrown at a problem be the way u diagnose exactly whats wrong. you can pull most of it out without really having to replace clips on most cars if u dont go hulk smash on whatever you are working on. plus really, its all bolts and wire connections really, and once you jump into it, just fake it till you make it till next time when you got that bit of experience under your belt.
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