This thread is a result of 5 hours of searching about a problem and the FOUND THE ANSWERS. I thought I should help by putting them all on ONE POST
Read on!
TROUBLESHOOT TRANSMISSION SHIFTING PROBLEMS
With ignition on and car stopped the #1 solenoid should be energized and REGARDLESS of selector position
.Bad solenoid will not cause car not to move from standstill until the engine revved up but low pressure to forward clutch will.
Not working solenoid #3 will disable lock-up;
bad solenoid #1 will cause the car to have 3rd and o/d gears only;
bad solenoid #2 will cause car to be at first gear until 45 mph is reached then the car will shift to o/d.
Normally the car should shift to second gear at 15 mph at 2500 rpms, then to the third at 25-30 mph and 2500 rpm and to the o/d at 40-45 mph and 2500 rpm (figures for my car with tired engine).
SYMPTOM 1
I have an 87 Camry with just over 200,000 miles on it. Over the past few months I've noticed that it is having a very time accelerating from a stop. It's fine while its in first gear, but as soon as it shifts into 2nd it bogs down and barely accelerates. If I really stomp on the gas it will go, but it almost acts like it's skipping 2nd and shifting right into 3rd.
Also, the overdrive light has been flashing on and off all the time now. The diagnostics code for the transmission indicated that something was wrong with solenoid 2.
My question is if the solenoid 2 would cause this problem, and how do I get to it to replace it? I couldn't find any instructions on where the solenoid is located or how to replace it online, so I thought maybe someone here could help.
I appreciate any advice you might be able to give,
ANSWER
The solenoid #2 can be replaced by removing the oil pan. It is the one to which the black wire is connected to. check this black wire first to make sure it is not pinched under filter screen.
SYMPTOM 2
I'm having trouble with the tranny in a 90 Camry wagon. If put in D it will take off in high gear, it never downshifts. I can shift it down manually and then upshift manually with no problem. But then when I come to a stop, it just stays in high gear. This car sat in a guys driveway for a year with a blown head gasket and he didn't me
ntion any previous problems with the transmission. It was rebuilt 15K miles before it was parked. I removed the speed sensor from the transmission and checked continuity and it shows infinite. I also don't get any noticeable pulses when I pass a strong magnet near it. Any one experienced this same problem and found the answer?
ANSWER
I'm not a transmission guy, but my '90 Camry DX had a similar problem--seemed to take off from a stop in high, could be shifted manually through the gears. The solution in my case was the shift solenoids. I had mine done at the local TSI. Total cost parts, labor and tax: $289. Good luck, and if you decide to do it yourself, I believe you can get the solenoid kit for less than $150.
I found the problem. Oversight on my part. I just replaced the motor and the replacement came with the complete wiring harness attached all the way through the firewall to the connectors under the dash. I used the harness that was on the replacemnt motor because the original harness had been hacked up in places. When I pulled the new harness through the firewall the connector for the transmission computer remained hidden on top of the HVAC and the hole for it to plug into on the computer isn't easily visible. I just overlooked it when reconnecting everything. I plugged it in and the transmission is working fine now.
SYMPTOM
Installed a salvaged transmission about a year ago. It was running great until about 2 week ago my son said it wasn't shifting right. I drove it and sure enough, between 5 & 15 it was "slipping". Next day no reverse. I dropped the pan, changed the filter, drained the trans axle...refilled all and seems to shift smooth in all gears, but still no reverse. There is NO noise at all from the transmission..everything sounds right, but when reversed..nada.
ANSWER
the most common cause of no reverse is the failure of overdrive direct clutch.[C0]
to fix it you need to remove the side cover; there is procedure to verify this problem, by installing O/D sprag backwards and then checking if reverse come back.
If so the clutch plates need to be changed.
Another problem is failure of transmission direct clutch, especially if it goes to the third gear at 4000 rpm.This problem calls for complete removal and overhaul.
To make sense of what I wrote, go to
www.camrystuff.com, select generation 2 and download the a/t repair manual . Best of luck
FOUND OUT
Figured out this weekend that the transaxle is shot. I disconnected the linkage and used a pair of vice-grips to take it through the gears. 1st time through this is what I got:
Reverse nothing Neutral - rotation (like it was in 1st)
Drive - Seemed fine 2nd - Seemed Fine Low - Seemed Fine
When I backed through them all and got back to park I did it again:
Reverse - Terrible grinding noise, then nothing, Everything else the same.
Looking for a used transaxle now.
SYMPTOM
I have a 88 camry, when I put the car into Drive, it only has 3rd and 4th gear. I have been driving it like this for a vert long time believe it or not (HILLS suck), any ways. However, i can use first and second gear manually with the shifter....
ANSWER
140E has shift solenoids which can get stuck or go bad. Easy to get to by pulling the pan.
Check white wire to solenoid #1
There should be power to it with ignition "on" regardless of the gear position, even with engine is not running .To check if power is present, separate connector at tranny and use test light at the terminal that leads to the white wire[harness side}, if power is present, then and check for continuity between the wire and bellhousing. Infinite resistance indicate burnout solenoid. If ohmeter is not available use 9 volt battery; connect plus to the white wire terminal and touch negative battery post to the bellhousing.
If solenoid is working you will hear the click.
If solenoid clicks, the passage to it can be plugged.
Note the defective solenoid /wire will set the trouble code in ECT comp..
SYMPTOM
at work, i park < 1/4 mile from the interstate. so, when i leave work, i almost immediately am on the interstate. the problem i am posing about shows up only when i'm going from "cold" to interstate speeds quickly. i accelerate up to speed, but my transmission gets "stuck" in the next to last gear and i can't go any faster than 50mph or so (and i'm in michigan with 70mp interstates :o ) so it stays this way for about a half mile or so, then drops into the highest gear (it's super consistent, always happens at about the same point)
ANSWER
its supposed to stay in 3rd until it gets warmed up
It does this to warm up the cat quicker.
Is this function controlled by the ECU?
If you have Power/Normal push button next to
parking brake handle, the answer is yes, if not, then it is controlled by
thermo switch similar to the fan switch located on the top of the upper radiator hose outlet in front of the distributor.
the warm up delay feutre was added to Toyota in late 79;
I had this same problem on my 91 Camry 3SFE, 5 speed auto. When the temps started to drop lower than 50 degrees, my car would do the same thing yours did. I later determined that my t-stat was stuck open, and the car would take forever to heat up. My heater also wasn't working very good. If I let the car sit and idle a bit, it would warm up, but once I took off driving, you could watch the temp gauge go way down.
Replacing the t-stat fixed the problem. The car warmed up allot faster, shifted better, and my heater worked!
I let my car sit a few minutes every morning because the temp here lately has been around 30 degrees.
MOST IMPORTANT.. DO THE TRANNY MAINTENANCE It seems well worth it now .. RIGHT?
Thanks Doctor J You Rock!
Signed The Camry Man
Linear Mode
