HELP! Auto transaxle is this thing “TOAST/Shot”

[Sturdavj]

1990 Camry LE 4-cly

I just pulled drivers side half shaft and the side bearing has disintegrated.
I replaced both axles and drove the car about 2 miles; I heard a serious clunk on the LH side. I turned around came back home and pulled the drivers side axle/ bearing retainer.

The race was cracked in at least three places and the needle bearings were no where to be found.

The question is the same old one “Do I repair or replace”?

[Sturdavj]

I need to determine which transaxle this car has, does anyone know where the Transaxle ID tag is located?

I will picking up a replacement bearing & seal.

Does anyone happen to have an exploded drawing/view for the left side differential case, LH input axle area. Maybe they could post without violations forum guidelines ?

My Toyota FSM does not break it down to this level of detail.

Thanks
John

[white90dx]

You have an A140E, though the sub-version I don't know. The bearings and seals from any A140 should work though.

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

Thanks Charlie, I was hoping for yourself or Doc J to pick-up.

RE; This is the LH axle/differential

I have gotten bearings, O-rings, & seals in the past from a vender we do business with at work. I have the outer bearing race with the number Nachi 44KB721 on it so hopefully it will cross over to a Timken or SKF.

A question(s) I have is the bearing retainer consists of an outer seal, an inner shim and the outer bearing race (~pressed/pushed) into place. The roller bearing is seated in the race. The retainer is then installed into side of the differential case.

1. Is there anything else between the axle spline and ring gear. When I was installing the bearing retainer a tin ring fell from somewhere (?) It looked liked the seal dust cover from the old axle so I assumed it was. Now I wondering if it was an internal part for the differential?

2. What’s the trick for keeping the bearing in place/aligned during pre-axle insertion, a wooden dowel ?

3. I was able to use a magnet to retrieve most of the large chunks through the drain plug hole, I plan to flush the gearbox. Any suggestions as to how best do this?



John

[Doctor J]

Just saw this post by the accident.
Use ISO-10 industrial oil to flush the differential
most experts are suggesting to replace bearings on both sides. After repalcement the differential needs "bearing preload" adjustment; part of that procedure is described on K. Sullivan's Autoshop 101, automatic transaxle articles (pictures toward the end of articles) I cannot recall exact specks; this is done by changing amount of shims under the bearing on the passenger side of differential.
as far as I know there are no additional components on the driver side bearing retainer
Can you please post some pictures of the damage?

[71Corolla]

Originally Posted by Sturdavj

The question is the same old one “Do I repair or replace”?

If you do decide to repair, you need to figure out what destroyed the bearing in the first place. I'd say the bearing going bad is highly unusual, what triggered it?

Around here it is extremely easy to find replacements units at the salvage yard (many with low mileage, saw one the other day with 60,000 miles) so if you can get a replacement I would do that.

[Sturdavj]

I believe the reason for bearing failure was do to owner error:

My axles plug in the case, the manual I was using said remove the six bolts holding the axle in place; I did not study the photos to determine exactly what they were referring to.

1. I began the job of axle(s) replacement with a Haynes shop manual, not a Toyota FSM. I now have both.
2. I pulled the bearing retainer with the LH axle instead. When I re-installed the bearing retainer I believe I damaged the bearing & inner race. There was resistance that I mistook for a tight fit.
3. When I installed the new axle there was minor to no resistance. I wrongly assumed it was in place.


Doc J ?
After repalcement the differential needs "bearing preload" adjustment; can this be done on car

[Doctor J]

the measurement of the force required to rotate the differential can be done on the car. Adding the shims requires access to the opposite (passenger side differential bearing) with differential removed so it is done better when the tranny is out of the car. However I have read that the RAV-4 owner replaced differential with engine and tranny in the vehicle, so he did not care much about preload and his RAV-4 made 20 k miles after this repair. So if the car runs without noise after 10 miles of driving you may drive it until you get the opportunity to check and adjust pre;load.

[Sturdavj]

[QUOTE=Doctor J;3478290]Just saw this post by the accident.
part of that procedure is described on K. Sullivan's Autoshop 101, automatic transaxle articles (pictures toward the end of articles)

Thanks for the site info, I booked mark it.

I have been involved with bearing pre-loads on larger gearboxes. Then had the shims machined. This work was carried out on an engine stand. This was on transit trains, twins to the ones that run through Sacramento. I understand what your say about loading the differential from the RH side, makes since.

This tranny has some slip in it (cold fluid). What I think I’ll do is replace the bearing and shim, put it back together run it and see what develops….