1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hello, again. I have a few questions regarding oil changing. I've got a 1989 Toyota Camry DLX with 200,700 miles on it, and as much as I hate to admit it, the last time the oil was changed was at about 188,000 miles. I know that I really have to change the oil pretty soon, so I am getting ready to do it but just need to know a few things first that I'm not sure about.
Now, I have the following questions:
1) Should I use regular or synthetic oil? I've heard some people say that synthetic is bad for older/higher mileage cars, but other sources say it's fine. I'm not sure what to believe.
2) Is it okay to use a non-OEM (Toyota) oil filter? I've heard that the OEM filters might work better, but I'm inclined to think that a regular filter would probably be okay, too.
3) In regards to replacing the washer and gasket, can I replace them with just about any washer or gasket designed for oil tanks, or should it be a Toyota-specific one?
I would appreciate any advice, and thank you in advance.
Hello, again. I have a few questions regarding oil changing. I've got a 1989 Toyota Camry DLX with 200,700 miles on it, and as much as I hate to admit it, the last time the oil was changed was at about 188,000 miles. I know that I really have to change the oil pretty soon, so I am getting ready to do it but just need to know a few things first that I'm not sure about.
Now, I have the following questions:
1) Should I use regular or synthetic oil? I've heard some people say that synthetic is bad for older/higher mileage cars, but other sources say it's fine. I'm not sure what to believe.
Synthetic has better "scrubbing" properties, if you will, and will remove sludge that has built up that prevents seals from leaking and rings from having a bit of blow-by. Synthetic oil on its most basic level lubricates more efficiently because it is "pure" as compared to conventional.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jemascola
2) Is it okay to use a non-OEM (Toyota) oil filter? I've heard that the OEM filters might work better, but I'm inclined to think that a regular filter would probably be okay, too.
I use Wix. They're better than OEM filters, in my opinion. Someone else might chime in. For my 4x4 rig (Suzuki 1.6l engine, reasonable performance for size) I like to use the Fram Xtra Guard filters... Tough Guard ones if I can't find the others. Most of the fleet gets Wix.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jemascola
3) In regards to replacing the washer and gasket, can I replace them with just about any washer or gasket designed for oil tanks, or should it be a Toyota-specific one?
I would appreciate any advice, and thank you in advance.
To be honest, I've never replaced these and never had one leak. I think what causes the leak is when the bolt is overtightened and the seal is "squished" more than is proper. I go contact and 1/4 to 1/2 turn further for the oil pan bolt. Any oil pan bolt seal will work. They're all the same.
The Following User Says Thank You to '88 All-Trac For This Useful Post:
Regarding #3, I did use to replace the washer/gasket each time, though not with a Toyota part. Recently, I swapped the oil plug for a Fumoto valve (www.quickoildrainvalve.com), which makes for very quick and easy work of changing the oil. I've since not changed the gasket since I never remove it.
The Following User Says Thank You to nopain00 For This Useful Post:
1. I would use conventional oil at your mileage. I would also recommend a lot more frequent oil changes. Something like 3000 - 4000 miles.
2. You can use any filter that is designed for your car's make and model. You do nothave to use Toyota OEM filters.
3. I would stick with the Toyota OEM crush washer. They are cheap enough not to have to worry about what you are using. One additional bit of information here; the OEM crush washer has 2 different sides. The smooth side goes toward the oil pan. It helps prevent the washer from sticking to the oil pan when the drain bolt is removed, although sometimes they still stick.
Mike
The Following User Says Thank You to Mike Gerber For This Useful Post:
1. just save yourself the money and go with regular motor oil. at this point, switching to syn. will only cause leaks. no real advantage in switching.
2. again, nothing special here. my only advise is to stay away from FRAM oil filters. there's no need for fancy, expensive filters. STP and Purolators are what i use and are just as good as WIX, K&N, etc.
3. it doesn't matter what you use here. just inspect whatever you use after so many changes.
Oops! Mike beat me to it.
Last edited by seng; 02-19-2011 at 04:39 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to seng For This Useful Post:
1) You can use either. Make sure it is the right weight. At this point, I would recommend using a blend. I would also recommend setting your intervals somewhere around 3,000 miles to help clear out any sludge.
2) I would say any brand filter would probably give you what your looking for. However, OEM filters tend to be cheap and are of higher quality than FRAM etc... Again, I would focus on frequent changing with what ever you get.
3) For the ease of removal, I would use the Toyota crush gaskets. They are thick and easy to remove each time. I would recommend replacing them each time. Use of a medium sized flat head screwdriver and a smack of the hand pops them off easy.
If you cannot fill the new oil filter before you screw it on, then perform the oil change. Remove the EFI fuse and try to start the car until the oil light goes out. Put the fuse back in, and fire it up. No dry start.
The Following User Says Thank You to scarney1988 For This Useful Post:
I've been using full synthetic since the 1970's with great success. I change the oil once a year (about 10,000miles).
I would use Mobile 1 15,000mile oil or their high mileage oil. Walmart sells a 5qt jug for $27.50 and their Supertech oil filters have been well rated.
Also Costco sells a 6qt case of oil and until the 27Feb their is a $9 off coupon making the oil only about $5.50qt.
The main reason I use Mobil 1 is its easy to find in stores and its a pure synthetic unlike most of the other brands.
In the old days of the 70's I used Eon 30wt purchased at a racing shop. Mobil 1 did not exist.
My 1988 Camry LE has 208,000 in it and I've been using Mobil 1 since I bought the car at 135,000miles.
My mothers 88 DX has been using Mobile 1 since 22,000mi and now has about 180,000 miles and still drives and accelerates like a new car.
I've had a number of engines saves from full synthetic over the years from engine overheating or total loss of oil.
The Following User Says Thank You to 66conv6 For This Useful Post:
1. As a previous poster stated synthetics typically have very good add package in them meaning they'll clean away any deposits in your engine. Which probably is a bad thing for your high mileage vehicle cause you most likely have some deposits stuck inside your engine preventing oil from leaking out. I'd recommend sticking with regular oil perhaps a High mileage one like Castrol GTX, Quaker, Valvoline.....
2. From what I've read on filters Wix is a very good filter along with purolator, purolator pureone, OEM, Napa. I would stay away from any Fram filter along with STP, Quaker State, microguard.
3. Gaskets as far as I'm conscerened I dont replace just reused the same one for over 200k mi now. lol
The Following User Says Thank You to blu_91_cam For This Useful Post:
@Jemascola & nopain00: Hi guy's, you know that even though the Fumoto Valve you mentioned is not a "Toyota part", it has been granted genuine part status by Toyota and 5 other major motor vehicle manufacturers in Japan, including Nissan, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Subaru and Isuzu.
Regarding #1 & #2: you can use regular oil and filters, at least that's what I do.
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A Few Oil Change Questions
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