1990 Camry - Broke power steering vaccum line - poor idle - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-06-2011, 01:08 AM   #1 (permalink)
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1990 Camry - Broke power steering vaccum line - poor idle

Changing my passenger side CV shaft I accidentally broke one of the power steering vacuum line fittings off. I thought of trying to back out the left over threads still stuck in the pump and replacing the fitting, but what a pain as there is very little space and everything is nasty from the oil leak. Now the car idles rough. Anyway around this, as in plugging the vacuum line and hole? Thanks.
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Old 03-06-2011, 02:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You could plug both vacuum lines that go to the air control valve (which is what it sounds like you broke one of the lines on) or you could swap out the valve. It is very difficult to get into that area, and even harder to remove the pump itself. But IIRC there is enough room to get to the air control valve and replace it.

The purpose of the valve is to increase air flow to the engine when there is a higher load on the PS pump. Otherwise the engine speed will drop down too low when you turn the wheel fairly sharply.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If I plug the lines going to the IAC to I need to plug them at the steering pump to avoid anything going into the pump, like dirt/water? You are saying to disconnect both vacuum lines from the IAC and plug the ports to the valve and just ignore the power steering pump? What did you want me to replace? Will I need to adjust the idle to compensate for doing this?
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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No need to plug the vacuum lines on the pump itself. If the PS idle-up switch is already damaged, it isnt' getting any worse.

You will need to plug the vacuum port on the intake manifold (passenger side, up from the pump) and at the bottom of the throttle body (make sure you get the right one - follow the metal line on the back of the manifold over there from the PS pump).

Bypassing the PS idle up switch will only affect idle when you are at full steering lock at idle. You shouldn't hold the steering wheel at full lock anyway (alwasy back off just a bit from full lock) so there really isn't much of an effect.

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Old 03-07-2011, 05:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ok Thanks. When I was looking at the power steering vacuum lines I noticed there was a ripped boot that connects the linkage from the power steering rack to the tie rod. It looks like it has been ripped a while and certainly looks like a pain to change. Will the linkage inside get damaged if I leave this alone?
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamB View Post
Ok Thanks. When I was looking at the power steering vacuum lines I noticed there was a ripped boot that connects the linkage from the power steering rack to the tie rod. It looks like it has been ripped a while and certainly looks like a pain to change. Will the linkage inside get damaged if I leave this alone?
The damage has already been done, probably. For your sake though, I hope it hasn't.

The boot (the 'steering gear bellows') keeps dust/dirt off the outer steering rack seals. If the seal is still ok (not leaking), then put another boot on there. You have to remove the outer tie rod to replace the bellows, and get an alignment done afterwards (though it can be a simple 'toe and go' alignment). You should probably do both sides to save money on alignments.

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