HELP Pulling engine; Top -vs- Bottom… which method is easier ?

[Sturdavj]

HELP Pulling engine; Top -vs- Bottom… which method is easier ?

1990 Camry LE, front wheel drive. Transmission is shot.

My plan: acquire a donor vehicle (located) pull its engine & transmission unit. Pull unit from driver.

Swap appropriate parts and install unit into car listed above.

I have read on some posts to drop unit on the floor and lift car body & pull the unit out from under it; What is the best way/method to lift car body (don’t have a fork lift at home) use the engine hoist….? If it does come out the bottom do the strut assemblies and associate hardware go to ground also?

I have read to remove the hood, radiator/support hardware and pull the unit out the top.

In both cases disconnect the wire loom from interior connection point.

[Sturdavj]

Sorry.... car Is an automatic transmission

[white90dx]

For the FWD Camry, it goes out the top pretty easily. Disconnect everything except for the two top hanger mounts first. Make sure the radiator is out, you don't need to mess with the core support or anything. Leave the A/C connected to the high-pressure lines, hang it from the core support. Leave the PS pump connected and leave it in the back of the engine bay. As you are lifting it, the motor need to rotate a bit (engine forward, transmission back, if I remember right) and it comes out. Watch carefully for any hangups.

The engine only needs to come out the bottom on the Alltrac... (though you can remove the tail shaft and actually pull it out the top if you have no other way)

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

Thanks Charlie, I have read your Engine R&R posts, good information.

Also, I have checking youtube info as well.

This will be my first import. I'll let you know how it goes

[white90dx]

And just to prove it does come out the top:





-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

It must have been tuff laying on that flag stone……

A couple questions;
1. Are than any hoses that need to be plugged
2. Are than any connections that need to be pre-identified, or are they connector matched
3. I notice the grill is removed in the pic, is this to access condenser or radiator hardware

Is that a turbo on your engine? Source?

['88 All-Trac]

Looks like his famous 3s-gte swap.

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by Sturdavj

It must have been tuff laying on that flag stone……

A couple questions;
1. Are than any hoses that need to be plugged
2. Are than any connections that need to be pre-identified, or are they connector matched
3. I notice the grill is removed in the pic, is this to access condenser or radiator hardware

Is that a turbo on your engine? Source?

There isn't a whole lot of laying on the ground, luckily. It was tougher to move the engine hoist around on them, and then up the driveway by myself...

You don't have to plug any hoses, but you will have to deal with dripping fluids, etc. If you are going to store the engine for a while, make sure you plug them to keep bugs/animals/dust out of the motor.

The electrical connectors are all matched, but feel free to label anything (or just take pictures) if you are worried about anything as you go along.

The front grill and bumper were removed for other reasons and can be left in place for a normal motor R&R. The motor that I'm pulling in the picture is a 3s-gte (MR2 turbo / Celica GT4) motor with E153 manual transmission.

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

Thanks a bunch Charlie, you have answered my questions w/great information.

If things go right I’ll be asking Q’s later about stepping up this motor…..

[scarney1988]

Things to consider to help you out

1. using paint marker to notate where ground straps connect to body etc
2. Use duct tape / gorilla tape to cover openings into engine
3. Duct tape fender covers into place
4. Remove rad fans, remove rad and get a thick piece of cardboard and cut it and set it in place to protect condensor or radiator if you plan not to move it.
5. Take your time
6. Take pictures
7. Think about anything you want to do to the engine or engine bay so that you can have parts ready
   1. Timing belt
   2. Oil seals
   3. Rear main oil seal
   4. etc..
8. Good luck
9. have fun

If you PM your email I'll email you the toyota walkthrough for engine removal

[white90dx]

Covering the inside of the A/C condenser is a really good idea. I've done this for all my motor R&R's...

Don't use duct tape on your car - use blue painter's tape so you don't leave marks or lift paint.

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

Thanks for the help

I was planning on the timing belt, but I would have overlooked the oil seals/ rear main

I do have a Toyota FSM, however nothing surpasses experience for tips

[Sturdavj]

Pulled the engine yesterday & its setting on the stand , definitely better out the top.

Had to look harder that I thought to find the plugs for the console/dash connectors. Found the plugs behind the glove box, I wasn’t expecting to have to remove carpet to find the remaining connectors. Once located, they were easy to remove.

Exhaust nuts were a bitch, I used Kroil oil & let it soak (2)days, I was able to remove one out of three. The remaining two nuts I split with a Dermal Tool & a half dozen thin cut wheels. Then used a ball peen hammer and a quality screw driver to open up the nuts, I was then able to back them off the stud, the threads on the studs look to be in good shape, will replace them later if I have to.

I pulled the PS pump with the motor, I am wondering will I now need to bleed the system

I plan to replace the rubber parts while I have it on the stand. I am also wondering about the water pump

[white90dx]

It is generally better to leave the power steering pump in the engine bay (take it off the motor), but it is easy to bleed anyway. Just fill the resevior, turn the wheel back and forth a few times (with engine on) and fill it again. Drive for a while (turn lock to lock when you can), and fill again, rinse, repeat.

If you don't know the history of the water pump, you should probably replace it. They generally last for two timing belts.

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

Thanks Charlie,

I admit I was impatient, the PS pump hardware appeared tobe difficult to reach. I choose the hose clamp/ fitting route..

I think I’ll pick up a WP to be safe, the car has 290K