1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
i know australia has some stuff for our cars that i may have forgotten about, but anyone know about anytype of polyurethane engine mount upgrades that will probably work on our cars?
__________________ http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y11...3385Medium.jpg
Here's my camry ^
Current: B+G Springs, KYB GR2 Struts, Erebuni Bodykit(uninstalled), 3SGTE/E52 swap, Crane HI-6S Ignition Box, Crane Timing Retard Controller.
Plans: Here
try asking http://www.speed-source.net/products/polymount.htm it's probbly the same mounts.. what i did was the lazy way... what i did was got a tube of polyurathne then filled up the spaces in the stock mounts with it... it's not the same but whatever works fine enough
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Quantum mechanics - the dreams that stuff is made of.
I see, thanks. I think I'll keep mine stock, from my reading it appears to help with better acceleration but may create a little more vibration. My camry is just going to be an "around town" 3rd car. I thought maybe these mounts were prone to breaking early so guy were doing this to increase the longevity, or does it do that also?
i bought brand new mounts and filled them with poly urethane but still managed to kill them in 2 years with only a few hard launches. i'll see what i can do with speed source.
__________________ http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y11...3385Medium.jpg
Here's my camry ^
Current: B+G Springs, KYB GR2 Struts, Erebuni Bodykit(uninstalled), 3SGTE/E52 swap, Crane HI-6S Ignition Box, Crane Timing Retard Controller.
Plans: Here
Stock MT mounts are all you need. They work fine for what their designed to do. I pulled my engine & auto trans and was impressed by the number (5) of mounts used to keep this drive train in place.
For those have who have found a way to place performance into a Camry,,, one more story
Back in the day of “large” small blocks, GM stock mounts could not hold the torque of the delivered Horsepower. The DIY solution was to install strain cables from the engine block to the frame rails. These cables were installed slack (slight) and when the hammer was put down they would kick in (tighten) before the mounts broke loose and the torque was delivered to the drive tires. The MT mounts would remain intact… and provide anti-dampening therefore reducing vibration
Well... white90dx did a damn fine job building a 280hp prowler...
I actually used that strap setup in my Geo, it's good to be able to spin the tires before you pop your whopping two engine mounts and two trans/t-case mounts.
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