1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I recently had 4 new KYB struts put on a 90' Camry with bellows and bump stops. The shop said the mounts were fine, BUT if it isn't very difficult I would still like to change them myself for peace of mind.
Can this be done with the struts/springs still in place? would I need to compress the springs (don't have a spring compressor) in order to replace the mounts? or any other special tool/step?
Basically I'm hoping I could just remove the top nuts, pull the mount out and replace it. I'm sure that isn't the way it works though.
The Following User Says Thank You to Grego 92 For This Useful Post:
Sadly, you have to completely remove the strut assembly from the car, and compress the springs to remove the strut tops. It would also require an alignment after re-assembly on the car.
-Charlie
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Your going to have to use spring compressors because in order to change the mount, the springs will have to be compressed. the mount has a nut that holds together the entire assembly
Well, I'll just wait until i'm done with everything else (odd and ends for the interior, tires, and then paint) and then when I'm bored buy the spring compressors and parts and do the work. I'll enjoy the labor I paid for as long as possible. I have the lifetime alignments from Firestone for this car so that cost is already paid for.
Not attempting a thread-jack here, buuut... I was just finishing up my list of parts for my $500 1990 Camry that I purchased yesterday and had a question. Struts are on the list as I believe they are the originals... at least they feel like struts that have 179k + miles... anyway, my question is two-fold.
-1 Is it a safe assumption that the strut mounts are in the same condition as the struts and therefore should be replaced?
-2 Looking @ the mount options on rockAuto.com, the various mounts range from $20 to over $60. I was considering the $22 Monroes. Would these suffice if I want an OEM ride at a minimum?
Not attempting a thread-jack here, buuut... I was just finishing up my list of parts for my $500 1990 Camry that I purchased yesterday and had a question. Struts are on the list as I believe they are the originals... at least they feel like struts that have 179k + miles... anyway, my question is two-fold.
-1 Is it a safe assumption that the strut mounts are in the same condition as the struts and therefore should be replaced?
-2 Looking @ the mount options on rockAuto.com, the various mounts range from $20 to over $60. I was considering the $22 Monroes. Would these suffice if I want an OEM ride at a minimum?
Plan to purchase the Monroe struts all the way around the car.
Doing further research on this topic I found several threads similar to the one @ the link below where members agree that replacing the strut mounts with the new struts is wise.
I am the third owner of my 90’ Camry. Because it is known that I am into to retro Toyota’s my manager gave this car when his wife upgraded to a 10’ (boo). I have the advantage of knowing the history of this car, the first owners were his Grandparents.
This car has 294K on the odometer, when I replaced the CV axles I also replaced the struts & mounts. I know for a fact this was the first time. In terms of ride quality and upon further inspection I could not determine the strut plates needed R&R (removal/replaced).
Would I replace the struts at 120K ? Hell YES. Would they need it ? probably not. But at any point that I would replace struts I would replace the mounts. The reason being because of the complexity of the task and the labor required I would never go in and R&R just the mounts and leave the original struts in place. Therefore the mounts would be hammered before I would pull them off, So when the struts come off so do the mounts.
I am the third owner of my 90’ Camry. Because it is known that I am into to retro Toyota’s my manager gave this car when his wife upgraded to a 10’ (boo). I have the advantage of knowing the history of this car, the first owners were his Grandparents.
This car has 294K on the odometer, when I replaced the CV axles I also replaced the struts & mounts. I know for a fact this was the first time. In terms of ride quality and upon further inspection I could not determine the strut plates needed R&R (removal/replaced).
Would I replace the struts at 120K ? Hell YES. Would they need it ? probably not. But at any point that I would replace struts I would replace the mounts. The reason being because of the complexity of the task and the labor required I would never go in and R&R just the mounts and leave the original struts in place. Therefore the mounts would be hammered before I would pull them off, So when the struts come off so do the mounts.
Hey Sturdavj, anything else you consider a common sense replacement when doing the struts? When I replace mine, I want to get it all in one shot. Suspension has never been my forte so this is one of the few things I will pay someone to do for me. The idea of compressing those springs scares me, to be honest.
If you have access to quality a jack, jack stands and hand tools "You can get it done"
Your wise to be cautious around the springs. If you use a quality set of compressors and take your time you will be OK. Good auto part stores usually loan/rent a quality set when you purchase parts.
Two things to check when loaning/renting/getting spring compressors:
(1) Inspect the nut and bolt threads for wear and make sure the threads are not stretched, which may lead to sudden failure.
(2) The method for how the compressor to spring coli interface is held in place. There are various methods for accomplishing this, I can’t say that one is better than another. I can say that in past times when I had spring slippage it was a matter of one or both of these items being substandard.
You may want to inspect closely the/your strut boots, I would wait to purchase replacements until you have a had a chance to remove & check yours.
Also when removing the lower strut mounting bolts you will want to use a ½” breaker bar, or a quality ½” ratchet with a cheater pipe. When installed they are tighten with well over a 100lbs of torque and if I remember correctly Lock-Tight is also used, I know I used it when I R&R mine.
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