bypass door control module for keyless entry

[trickytiger]

I've installed keyless entry in my 1991 camry by tapping into the wires from the door control module under the glove box, however it's not working as planned and wasn't before i installed the keyless entry module either.

For some reason after the drivers door has been shut for a while, the unlocking part of the central locking doesn't work until i manually unlock the drivers door and turn the ignition.

So my question here is, rather than running new wires to all 4 doors would it be possible for me to bypass the central locking part of the door control module and have the keyless module operate it?


These are what the 16 pins say on the circuit board of the door control module:
1. IG - Ignition?
2. DSW
3. MO2
4. MO1
5. PLSW
6. LSW
7. KSW
8. +B - 12V constant
9. PKB
10. MLK
11. MUL
12. KLK
13. PW
14. PWM
15. SP
16. GND - Ground

I have labelled the one's I know.

[white90dx]

I'm away from the diagrams at the moment... but I can say that you shouldn't need to do anything special (like bypassing the module) to get both the normal door lock switches and the alarm switches to work.

Can you tell us what wires (where and what colors) you tapped into for your alarm? It will help me figure things out when I (or somebody else) can look at the diagrams.

-Charlie

[trickytiger]

I tapped into the 12V constant wire from the door control module for power and earthed it on a bolt i found down there also. the wires i tapped into for unlock and lock is green/black and green.

It works fine until i shut the drivers door, then there is no power to unlock with the central locking from the remote or key. It was like this before i installed the keyless entry.

The only way i can think of getting this to work right now is by running new unlock and lock wires to all 4 doors as the keyless entry module still has power. the locking wire keeps it's power still. I have also tested other places where lock and unlock wires are and it's the same everywhere.

[nopain00]

I was looking at the diagrams and I can't find any wire that's green/black. Do you mean green/blue? Can you correlate the wires you tapped to the 16 ones you described in your initial post? This will help me figure out exactly where you're tapping into the system.

Basically, connecting terminal 10 (light green) to ground will lock all of the doors by supplying +12 to terminal 4 (blue/red). Connecting 11 (green) to ground will unlock all of the doors by supplying +12 to terminal 3 (blue/black).

To troubleshoot, I'd make a jumper and make sure that connecting 10 or 11 to ground do in fact lock and unlock your doors, respectively. Do all of this without the key in the ignition, because otherwise the "key reminder" system will activate.

[trickytiger]

oops it was green and light green that i tapped into for lock and unlock.

Now at the moment I have the keyless entry module working unlocking and locking until the drivers door is closed, then only locking works.

So pretty much if i connect blue/red to +12V, connect light green to the lock wire on the keyless entry module and connect blue/black to +12V, connect green to the unlock wire on the keyless entry module I can bypass the central locking part of the door control module?

just one question: If I take these 4 wires off the door control module completely, will I still have power windows?

[nopain00]

I'm still a little confused about a few things. Maybe you can help me by answering a few questions.

(1) Why exactly are you trying to bypass the door lock control relay (which is what I think you're calling the "central locking part of the door control module")?

(2) When you say that you tapped into the light green and green wires, what exactly do you mean? Do you mean that you're supplying them +12V, connecting them to ground, connecting them to a relay, etc.?

(3) What do the "lock" and "unlock" wires on your keyless entry module do? This is similar to my question 2 above. Do they provide +12V or connect to ground?

To answer some of your questions: power windows have nothing to do with this. This control relay only controls door locks so you won't affect the windows.

Also, if you simply connect the blue/red and blue/black to +12, you will likely short out the system. It may help you to understand how the door locks work.

Each door has a door-lock solenoid connected to two wires, blue/red (terminal 4) and blue/black (terminal 3). Depending on the direction of the current, the electromagnet has opposite polarity and flips the switch in one or the other direction and locks or unlocks the door. As I said in my previous post, connecting blue/red to +12 and grounding blue/black will lock the door. Doing the opposite will unlock the door.

The job of the control relay is to take inputs from the door lock switch, key switch, ignition key switch, etc. and provide +12 V to either terminal 3 or 4 while grounding the other.

To get your keyless entry module to work you should be providing the same inputs to the control relay as the door lock switches do. That is, your inputs should be to terminals 10 (light green) or terminal 11 (green). You should NOT (as you suggest) provide voltage directly to 3 or 4. Remember that all of the terminals on the door lock solenoids are interconnected, both to all of the doors as well as to the relay. This means that if you provide voltage to terminal 3, you are energizing all of the solenoids, as well as providing voltage to the relay itself. You could create a condition where your keyless module is providing +12 V to terminal 4 (to lock the doors) while the door control relay is doing the opposite (grounding terminal 4), for example as part of the "key reminder system". This would create a short and at the very least blow a fuse, or worse, fry the module, which is expensive to replace.

I strongly urge you to use only terminals 10 and 11 to interface with the system. Most alarm/keyless module systems simply provide +12 to each of the lead wires to trigger a function. If that is the case in your device, to work with this system, you would connect the lock wire from your module to a +12 normally open relay (which you've purchased separately), whose switch portion was connected to terminal 10 and ground. Thus when your system wanted to lock the car, your keyless module would send voltage to its lock wire, which would close the relay you installed, which would connect terminal 10 to ground, which would send a signal to the control relay, which finally would provide +12 to terminal 4 and lock the doors.

I know this probably sounds more complicated than you initially imagined. I can send you the pertinent EWD if that would help. This, however, is the correct way of doing it to avoid any other electrical problems. I've seen many poorly installed alarms and keyless sytems that cause all sorts of electrical problems because of shorts.

[trickytiger]

answers to your questions:

(1) Why exactly are you trying to bypass the door lock control relay (which is what I think you're calling the "central locking part of the door control module")?

(A)I'm trying to do this as a way to fix the unlocking issue my car currently has. If i've locked my car and shut the drivers door, the unlocking wire is turned off (have looked over this and disconnected doors one by one and the problem is still there.)

(2) When you say that you tapped into the light green and green wires, what exactly do you mean? Do you mean that you're supplying them +12V, connecting them to ground, connecting them to a relay, etc.?

(A) ok, the keyless entry module is currently connected like this: red power wire going to +B on the door control module, black ground wire going to a bolt near it. then i have brown and white wires which lock and unlock the doors going to the green and light green wires on the door control module (soldered the wires onto each one.)

(3) What do the "lock" and "unlock" wires on your keyless entry module do? This is similar to my question 2 above. Do they provide +12V or connect to ground?

(A) i'm presuming they connect to ground because if i unplug the door control module the keyless entry still has power but will not unlock or lock the doors.



Also the reason i asked about the door control module and power windows is because if the door control module is disconnected the power windows won't work.

[dem2757]

did you check the wires inside the rubber boots?

[trickytiger]

yes, the wires inside the rubber boots have been checked

EDIT: If I disconnect the little switch the door pushes closed when it's shut on the drivers door I can keep the central locking working, so the fault must be around there somewhere? I also noticed the rear right door doesn't seem to be connected to it's switch as that door doesn't light up as open on the dash when all other doors are closed.

[dem2757]

your courtesy switches are probably bad. the springs go out on them. not sure why you have a locking issue. id check grounds and look for shorts

[trickytiger]

Originally Posted by dem2757

your courtesy switches are probably bad. the springs go out on them. not sure why you have a locking issue. id check grounds and look for shorts

forgot what they were called lol. All grounds seem to check out fine, i'm just going to disconnect the drivers side courtesy switch for now, might see if i can swap the drivers side one with the passengers side tomorrow when it's light just incase that's the problem.

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by trickytiger

answers to your questions:

(3) What do the "lock" and "unlock" wires on your keyless entry module do? This is similar to my question 2 above. Do they provide +12V or connect to ground?

(A) i'm presuming they connect to ground because if i unplug the door control module the keyless entry still has power but will not unlock or lock the doors.

You will need to get a better answer to this question. It is VERY important to know what signal the keyless module is sending. It should be sending a momentary ground to the lock or unlock wires.

As others have said, the pin switch for the right rear door is probably just dirty - you can try cleaning or replacing that.

The driver's door acts slightly differently than the other three (if the key is in the ignition and the drivers' door is open, the doors should immediately unlock if you try to lock them, for example).

Does the keyless module tap into any other wires besides power, ground and the lock and unlock wires?

[nopain00]

Okay, this is getting complicated.

Originally Posted by trickytiger

answers to your questions:

(1) Why exactly are you trying to bypass the door lock control relay (which is what I think you're calling the "central locking part of the door control module")?

(A)I'm trying to do this as a way to fix the unlocking issue my car currently has. If i've locked my car and shut the drivers door, the unlocking wire is turned off (have looked over this and disconnected doors one by one and the problem is still there.)

I'd say that if you want all of the systems to work correctly; i.e. you want the door locks in the car to work as they should and you want your keyless module to work, you need to address the problem your car had in the beginning. As far as I can tell, there shouldn't be a reason that your driver's courtesy switch should keep the door from unlocking. If anything, if it is stuck, it will prevent you from locking the door due to the "key reminder system". Troubleshoot this problem first. You can try replacing the switch to begin.

Originally Posted by trickytiger

(2) When you say that you tapped into the light green and green wires, what exactly do you mean? Do you mean that you're supplying them +12V, connecting them to ground, connecting them to a relay, etc.?

(A) ok, the keyless entry module is currently connected like this: red power wire going to +B on the door control module, black ground wire going to a bolt near it. then i have brown and white wires which lock and unlock the doors going to the green and light green wires on the door control module (soldered the wires onto each one.)

You soldered the wires?! That can cause problems since you can't easily remove them to do any testing. Plus, a lot of these modules are heat sensitive, so unless you use a heat sink, you can fry them. I would suggest in the future, tapping into the wires using quick-disconnect type connectors so that it's easy to remove any changes you made.

Originally Posted by trickytiger

(3) What do the "lock" and "unlock" wires on your keyless entry module do? This is similar to my question 2 above. Do they provide +12V or connect to ground?

(A) i'm presuming they connect to ground because if i unplug the door control module the keyless entry still has power but will not unlock or lock the doors.

Yeah, you really need to know exactly what they do. The fact that unplugging the door control module keeps power to your keyless module doesn't prove anything. Your keyless module--as you said--draws power from the +B line you tapped and grounds to the bolt you mentioned. What's the make and model of your keyless module? As I said before, a lot these simply provide a +12V momentary pulse to the wire. This is NOT what you want, or at least, not in the scenario you've described where you've connected them to the green and light green wires.

Originally Posted by trickytiger

Also the reason i asked about the door control module and power windows is because if the door control module is disconnected the power windows won't work.

The door locks do draw from the same circuit breakers as the power windows, but those sets of wires are separate. They're routed to the master switch on the driver's door, and then run to all of the doors. I've looked at the EWD, and can't find anything from the door control relay to the power windows. If you disconnect the entire harness from the kick-board panel, though, then yes, you would lose your power windows.

Again, my suggestion is as follows:

(step 1) Disconnect your keyless module from everything (and I mean, actually disconnect it, not just remove power to it) and get your door locks working as they should. You should be able to lock or unlock your doors with the driver's door open or closed without the key in the ignition both from inside and outside the car with a key.

(step 2) Figure out exactly what your keyless module is outputting to the lock and unlock wires. Look at the manual, or otherwise, use a multimeter. Connect the module to power and check the output from the lock wire to ground on the voltage setting. After you send the lock command, read the display. If it jumps to +12 briefly and then to 0, it's sending a +12 pulse. If you don't see anything, change to continuity mode and do the same. If you see a momentary continuity, then it is connecting to ground. Make sure to do these two multimeter tests in this order. If you do the continuity test first and it is giving +12, you'll short your multimeter and your module.

(step 3) Based on the results of step 2, connect the lock and unlock wires to the green and light green wires or connect them to a relay which then ground those wires, as I had described in my previous post.

[trickytiger]

ok it's the supercheap auto remote control central locking system. It also came with 4 actuators and I had it running perfect in my last car which was a 1992 mitsubishi galant, pretty much wired up the same way i had it in the old car although an auto electrician installed it for me then.

Wires and where they would go to if the actuators that came with it were installed:

Red(Fused 15A) - 12V Battery
Black - 12V Ground
Black - Driver side actuator
White - Driver side actuator
Brown - Driver side actuator
Blue - All 4 actuators
Green - All 4 actuators
Brown - Manual trigger switch
White - Manual trigger switch

[nopain00]

If the lock and unlock wires would go to the actuators, they most likely provide +12V. This is not what you need based on the way you've connected it. You're going to the control relay, so you need them to connect to ground. Post back when you've tested with a multimeter to confirm.