1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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How do I separate the brake line from the strut?
I'm trying to replace the front strut cartridge so I'm trying to remove the FRONT strut.
How'd I separate the brake line from it?
Because the brake line is clipped on a bracket and fed through the strut
Do I have to bleed the brakes after?
Do I remove a nut from the caliper or something?
I called a shop and they said you can replace the strut without opening the brake line.
Please help.
Detailed description is needed.
You're supposed to be able to peel off that metal clip instead of having to open the line to remove it whereas on the rear struts you have to either open the line or cut it off.
take of the clip move the line to the side then use a hack saw and cut a slit into the bracket(don't cut the brake line) bend it so you can move the line out of there
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If it's anything like the Gen2 Camry, you remove the brake line from the caliper. You first loosen the line, then spin the caliper itself to remove the line completely. Then you can feed it through the mount in the strut. Thread the line back into the caliper to prevent fluid loss.
Or I think you can do the opposite, remove the line from the mount on the body and thread that through and out of the mount on the strut.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
I'm sure it's generally the same as then gen2
Toyota rarely changes the design of things
They usually are just improvements,
I know the struts from the gen1 to gen2 are different In size
Would I have to bleed the brakes after if I open the line from the caliper or from the body mount?
I'm sure it's generally the same as then gen2
Toyota rarely changes the design of things
They usually are just improvements,
I know the struts from the gen1 to gen2 are different In size
Would I have to bleed the brakes after if I open the line from the caliper or from the body mount?
It will take fewer tools to cut the brake line mount than to bleed the brakes. Just buy a hack saw or a dremel with a cutoff wheel and do it that way... shoot, you can even just buy the hack saw blade and cut through it.
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
Just buy a hack saw... shoot, you can even just buy the hack saw blade and cut through it.
what particular size hacksaw should i buy?
something small enough to fit in the wheel well, right?
how should i cut the slit?
a horizontal cut or angled cut?
cause the metal clip should hold the line from falling out of the mount once there's a cut, right?
EDIT:
I figured out what atobe was saying, i think.
cut a slit in the mount so it can be bent.
just bend the mount, slip the line out, then bend it back after.
i just dont want the front strut brake line mount to get weak because its a refillable cartridge (from bending back and fourth if the cartridge ever have to be changed again)
i just dont want the front strut brake line mount to get weak because its a refillable cartridge (from bending back and fourth if the cartridge ever have to be changed again)
The cartridge should hold you over for another 100k or 200k miles... I wouldn't worry too much about it. I would worry about rust if you live in a place like that (just hit it with some paint).
If the tab does break, zip ties are your friend.
The other option is to cut a wide enough slot to slide the brake line out (rubber section) without bending the bracket. This is how most modern struts (including full replacement struts) are built.
-Charlie
__________________
2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
Would I have to bleed the brakes after if I open the line from the caliper or from the body mount?
Definitely. But it would be a good time to refresh the brake fluid.
You could cut the bracket, but that is not the the correct way to do it. Your call.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
(just hit it with some paint)...
cut a wide enough slot to slide the brake line out without bending the bracket...
i already thought to hit it with some black rustoleum rattle can over the bare metal after using the hacksaw.
and i probably will make the cut big enough to just slide the brake line out, just like newer struts in cars.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Corolla
You could cut the bracket, but that is not the the correct way to do it. Your call.
i would bleed the brakes but i'm doing this job all by myself,
i don't have anyone to help my bleed them because it's a two person job.
(the time that i have free to work on my car, no one else is available... friends, family, etc.)
i don't own a vacuum to bleed the brakes by myself.
thus the reason for cutting the bracket.
You don't need two people to bleed the brakes. All you need is a spare vacuum line and a glass jar. Just pump the brakes slowly, usually 20 reps then top off the fluid, repeat 2-3 times per side. I've done it this way many times.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
It's extremely simple. Crack open the bleeder valve, the close it back up but not real tight. Put the vacuum hose on the bleeder valve, and put the other end into a glass jar with a couple of inches of clean brake fluid in it. Open the valve and spin it 2-3 turns, making sure the hose stays immersed in the fluid.
Pump the brake pedal about 20 times, slowly. Slowly means about 10-15 seconds per repetition. Top off the reservoir, and do another 20. I usually do this 3 times, 60 reps total per wheel. The more air you have, the longer it will take to get it out. When done, tighten the bleeder back up, and make sure it has a rubber cap to keep the dirt out.
Seeing you need to remove the caliper, you will end up getting air into it, so there is a way to make sure all the air is removed. Do about 10 pumps, then close the bleeder. Press on the brake pedal carefully so it pushes the piston out about 1/2". Again, do this gently otherwise you will spit the piston out of the caliper. Then open the bleeder, and using a clamp, slowly push the piston all the way in. This will push any air out.
For an extra level of safety, you can put a piece of wood or both brake pads between the piston and the outer part of the caliper so the piston will not be pushed out too far. When starting out, do say 10 pumps then check the fluid level so you can get an idea how quickly it is going down and fill accordingly.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
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