Change TB, appears as if No Compression; how do I find TDC ? <>32-SFE

[Sturdavj]

1990 Camry, LE 4-Cly, front WD

When I had the engine out for an AT R&R, I replaced my TB. I have the engine back in & now that I am able to spin the motor it won’t start. It has spark and seems to be getting fuel.. But this engine spins freely as if there is no load.

I suspect the cam gears are off, how would I go about checking before I crack open the front cover(s) again.

[white90dx]

Check the timing belt... You can pop off the little rubber cover easily to peek in there.

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

Thanks Charlie.

I did not think about the inspection plug. What would I hope to see?

I pulled the spark plug boot and placed an old plug in it to test for spark; it appeared to fire in sequence, not necessarily the correct firing order/timing however.

It is a new belt; I suspect I screwed up when I replaced it on the engine stand

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by Sturdavj

Thanks Charlie.

I did not think about the inspection plug. What would I hope to see?

I pulled the spark plug boot and placed an old plug in it to test for spark; it appeared to fire in sequence, not necessarily the correct firing order/timing however.

It is a new belt; I suspect I screwed up when I replaced it on the engine stand

Since you are getting spark, the timing belt is in place... now you just need to make sure it is set correctly!

You can easily remove the top cover and verify mechanical timing. Set the crank to 0* by hand and check the position of the cam pulley (you may have to spin the motor another 360* to get the pulley in the right position).

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

Thanks Charlie,

I was concerned because when installing the TB I rotated the motor counter clockwise, for a short distance. Not sure if this caused any problems

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by Sturdavj

Thanks Charlie,

I was concerned because when installing the TB I rotated the motor counter clockwise, for a short distance. Not sure if this caused any problems

When you did the timing belt, did you tighten the second bolt on the tensioner? (put belt on, release tensioner, rotate motor twice by hand, tighten lock bolt on tensioner, button up)

-Charlie

[Doctor J]

it will be easier to align the hole on the cam with the mark on the bearing then checking a crank mark relative to the timing scale. if cam is retarded one tooth with respect to the correct timing the mark on the crank pulley will be 15 degrees after the 0 mark

[Sturdavj]

Thanks Doc' I'll be opening it up tonight with my FSM close by

[Sturdavj]

I opened it up tonight and…..

Charlie you were nuts’ on. The tensenor bolt was loose.

I like any mechanic worth his salt, I cleaned & picked up my tools, put them away, turned out the shop light, went inside = popped the top on a fresh one, and jumped on the forum to wine….

The question I have (while I can see the prompt to type, the tears not the suds.. never the suds)

Is : Can I set the cam mark & line up the crank pulley at TDC without pulling the bottom end TB cover?

[71Corolla]

Originally Posted by Sturdavj

Can I set the cam mark & line up the crank pulley at TDC without pulling the bottom end TB cover?

Yep. But when you get your marks dead on, rotate the crank a few times. This is to make sure the belt is on correctly, and to verify timing.

[Sturdavj]

YES Sir' you can bet I will

Thanks

[white90dx]

The bottom timing cover MUST be in place to get the belt placed correctly. Good luck!

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

OK, I have it together and it’s running.

I am getting a lot of condensation out the tail pipe, not sure what that’s about?

I did pressure wash the motor when I had it on the stand, also during the work I broke the lead off the sensor (co2?) located on the header heat shield. Needs to be R&Rd (bad reading ?)

Charlie hopefully you’re still with me on this. I read your post for timing this motor. I have an old school light with the spring that needs to pick up between the spark plug & boot. :

I will be trying it out shortly to see if I can make it up, any tips as to how best do this. I understand jumping the test points TE<>TE

[white90dx]

Condensation out the tail pipe is normal, especially with a cold motor. Hydrocarbon + Oxygen burns to be Carbon Dioxide and Water. When the exhaust it hot, the water stays as steam and you don't see it. When the exhaust is cold, it condenses and just dribbles out the exhaust.

The sensor you broke is the O2 sensor (not C02). If you were able to solder the connection back together, it should be fine. You need to have that sensor in place and working for the motor to run well.

The correct pins to jumper will be listed on the under hood emissions sticker. Hopefully you can get the timing light to work. With the old school style, sometimes it is hard to see the light flashing. A battery powered one would work better. It should be around the longest spark plug wire (cylinder 1). If you have stock ignition wires, they will be labeled 1-4 - use #1. Make sure the motor is near operating temp and its idling below 1000 rpm.

-Charlie

[Sturdavj]

I think I have the TL figured out. I found an old plug wire & boot lying around. I used the TL spring to connect/jumper to the wire coming out of the distributor. I am waiting until I get the steam/smoke issue straighten out before I attempt to get the timing right.

There is enough steam coming out of the tail pipe to fill up the shop, neighbor came over thought there may be a fire... When I first start up the engine things are clear but as it warms up the steam continues increases. Maybe five minuets at the most

The wire snapped off below the crimp as it goes into the sensor body, I may try and open it up.