Need help with oil leak location... - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Heedehcheenuh · 05-27-2011, 06:11 PM

I currently have a leak running down the front, backside,just above or around the lower timing belt cover. 2.0 3S-FE engine. I need to stop the bleeding as fast as possible. 1-2 qts a week cost me more than the fuel. I am a mechanic but am limited to working on this with R.A. bad in my hands. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced last year due to oil destroying the belt. I also replaced the valve cover gasket and tube seals. The car has 280,000 miles on it and not sure if the engine has ever been replaced but she runs fine with just a little smoke at start up. I use the car as a daily driver with the price of petro(fuel) going sky high.

Hey what can I say $900 usd from a junk yard and still running. I have grown to like this car a lot. I even made the A/C work when it grunted at me.

Ant info at where to start would help...

Chuck D

71Corolla · 05-27-2011, 06:43 PM

Most common areas are the oil pump seals (gasket, and shaft seal) and the front crank seal. When doing the timing belt, it is a great time to also replace these seals along with the camshaft seal.

Heedehcheenuh · 05-27-2011, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71Corolla

Most common areas are the oil pump seals (gasket, and shaft seal) and the front crank seal. When doing the timing belt, it is a great time to also replace these seals along with the camshaft seal.

Is the oil pump bolted behind the crank timing gear? That may be where the oil is leaking from. I have the Hayes repair manual looking at the pics. I just need time to do the work when it comes time to get it done. I am a Chebbie V8 man so this is all new to me. I have old hot rods and am now trying to learn these Toyota repairs.

Chuck D

71Corolla · 05-27-2011, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heedehcheenuh

Is the oil pump bolted behind the crank timing gear?

Taken from this thread.

After you remove the timing belt, it's simple to replace the gasket. Keep in mind that shaft seal can also leak, so you either will need to replace it, or replace the oil pump itself which is not a bad idea given the mileage on your engine.

Heedehcheenuh · 05-27-2011, 07:39 PM

I see now. I work for Advance Auto Parts so i will look the parts up in the morning. Do you think I may get by with not removing the timing gear? If I just pull the pump. Left top bolt looks about where the oil is trickling out from. Don't have to worry about it rusting for a while but will have to replace some bushings and mounts from oil soakage.

Chuck D

71Corolla · 05-27-2011, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Heedehcheenuh

Do you think I may get by with not removing the timing gear?

Which gear? To get the pump out, you have to remove the timing belt, and remove the bolts securing the oil pump. Seeing you work for Advance Auto, you can probably get an Aisin pump assembly for a good deal so just replace the entire unit which will come the "spaghetti" gasket. You can replace the shaft seal (see that thread I linked to) if you want instead of the whole pump, but you may also need the shaft itself because the seal wears a groove in them, so they will continue to leak even if you replace the seal.

Heedehcheenuh · 05-27-2011, 08:06 PM

Shows my newness to the Toyota brand. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced last yr I should have had this done at the same time. I was driving to work one morning and the belt broke. Called one of my shops and had then replace it but had no idea at the time. It may have messed up this new belt also.

go figure.

Chuck D

holmesnmanny · 05-28-2011, 03:56 AM

Just to clear it up. Is it safe to assume you would use the red label rtv on the oil pump housing and blue label rtv on the water pump housing?

***96paseo*** · 05-28-2011, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by holmesnmanny

Just to clear it up. Is it safe to assume you would use the red label rtv on the oil pump housing and blue label rtv on the water pump housing?

For the sump, you can use a thin coating of FIPG to help the paper gasket seal. The oil pump itself is sealed by an o-ring and RTV or FIPG is not necessary nor should it be used there. The only difference between the blue and red is hi-temp or regular duty. I recommend using either Toyota FIPG or Permatex ultra black since they are oil resistant. I prefer high tack for paper water pump gaskets but the blue or red you mention will work.

Synthetic composite or rubber/metal water pump gaskets don't need FIPG. The only exception is if you have a damaged sealing surface. I.E. pitting, corrosion or deep scrapes that traverse the entire sealing surface. In that situation, FIPG is highly recommended.

holmesnmanny · 05-28-2011, 05:03 PM

Thanks for the help. With regards to the oil pump, instead of having to use a hoist to hold the engine with the oil pan off, can I instead take the timing side things off, with a jack and wooden block under the oil pan, then put the mount back on temporarily while working on the oil pump and oil pan, then put oil pump and oil pan back on, then put the jack and block under the oil pan to get back to finishing off the rest of the timing belt components?

***96paseo*** · 05-30-2011, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by holmesnmanny

Thanks for the help. With regards to the oil pump, instead of having to use a hoist to hold the engine with the oil pan off, can I instead take the timing side things off, with a jack and wooden block under the oil pan, then put the mount back on temporarily while working on the oil pump and oil pan, then put oil pump and oil pan back on, then put the jack and block under the oil pan to get back to finishing off the rest of the timing belt components?

Yes, you can go that route. Thanks to the cross members, this platform is very difficult to get to the bottom end. Not only do you have to remove both crossmembers but also the bell housing cover to get to all the oil pan bolts. I used two jacks, one bottle and one floor in tandem to support the engine while i had the oil pan, sump and timing components off the engine. With the engine still on its LF and RF mounts, remove the horizontal crossmember. Then support the motor on the differential housing with a jack. Then, you can remove the other cross member and have access to everything. There are three motor mounts on the vertical cross member so it will be a bit tough to remove. Getting the cross members back together will prove most challenging. Thats why the FSM recommends the hoist. I struggled quite a bit to get the bolts to line up again. Good luck.