Timing belt and water pump change. Need advice on pulley spot rust. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 06-03-2011, 09:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2nd Generation Timing belt and water pump change. Need advice on pulley spot rust.

Hello TN
I have a 91 camry with the 3sfe motor. Had a tapping in the timing belt cover about 4-5 months back but I didnot have the money or time to fix at the moment. Now it is summer and school is over and work is picking up. So time to play
Long story short the day before my last final my engine just died while going up a hill. I managed to get it into q parking lot and walk to class haha. After my final I came back to give my car a good look over while I waited for the tow truck. I pretty much assumed that it was the timing belt letting go. I got down on the ground to look up and way water pouring. Or dripping rather by this point lol. So that means the water pump seals let go also...

Well while I was waiting to get the money for the timing belt the car sat in the drive way. With the remainder of a timing belt (oddly enough, turns out to look like my car had a ferbby as it's last meal :P) and moisture. I got around to getting new water pump, tb, idler, tensioner, and seals. I started the normal disassembly. I found about an 1/8th of a timing belt remaining. Along with a fluffly blown in fiberglass insulation type of material, which in my best guess is the old timing belt fibers and rubber degraded by running in water.

Today I started cleaning out all the fluff. I blew most of it out then used a skewer to get the crevices. As I started to clean the old belt out of the pulleys I noticed that the teeth were very rough in spots. Upon closer inspection it appears to be rust from the moist belt fluff sitting on the pulleys.

So this leads me to my question. What shall I do about these pulleys? Can I use a chemical to remove the rust? Do I need to sand them down some? How smooth does everything need to be tooth side in the timing system.

Thank you very much for any help!! Toyota nation has really been a life saver for me


(appologies in advance for any words that don't seem like they go where they are, posting from an iPhone with much to large thumbs!!!)
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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All surfaces of the pulleys(cam and crank) should be smooth and free of corrosion. Any rough areas will cause additional wear to the belt and may even cause it to break. Try using a wire wheel and gently remove the surface rust. Once you've done that, you can see if the metal is pitted or not. If it is, use some fine grit 400 sandpaper and clean up the pitting. Follow up with even finer 800 grit and get it as smooth as possible. Your other option is to get new pulleys from JY or dealer.
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 249,xxx miles - New water pump, TB etc etc
1989 Camry-Gone but not forgotten. Car has become a birthday gift for my cousin.
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles - New flasher relay installed.
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply!any idea how much the new pulleys cost?
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Old 06-03-2011, 05:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't know how many miles on your car but if over say, 150,000 I'd take off that crankshaft gear and pull the oil pump cover and replace the spaghetti o-ring seal, oil pump shaft seal, and crank shaft seal. This is one of those perfect "while you're in there" scenarios. I did exactly that and my bad oil leaks were considerably reduced. I don't think you need to pull the oil pump itself to replace the paper gasket but then, to each his own.
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Haha ya it's at almost double that mileage, 297,000 to be exact. How hard is the oil pump to get off? And how do I go about getting those pulleys off?
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm not familiar with the crank gear removal as I had a shop do mine but the oil pump doesn't need to come out, just the oil pump cover. There are a handlful of bolts (5-7?) holding the pump cover on after you remove the crank gear.

Come to think of it, it might be worth replacing the oil pump itself with that kind of mileage. One of the recent postings had a photo of the bolts to remove.
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Old 06-04-2011, 02:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Keep in mind that there are three different length bolts on the oil pump. Make sure you keep track of what goes where during the dis-assembly. I like to lay the bolts on a towel in the same pattern/shape as the pump itself. This helps to eliminate confusion later. You will need a puller for the harmonic balancer. You will also need two bolts for the balancer that don't come with the kit. IIRC, M6x1.0x30mm will fit. Its the same for the 5SFE crank pulley. There's a DIY in the Gen3/4 section that im pretty sure has the info. Or do a search. +1 on doing the seals while your in there. Since you haven't posted about a massive oil leak, I'd say yours were done once before, but its good maintenance and the seals aren't expensive. However, you may want to consider replacing the oil pump at your mileage or at least spec the "drive rotor tip to driven rotor" and "driven rotor to case" cleareances. Removal of the sump requires that the oil pan be off the engine. There is also a paper gasket that seals the pickup tube that should be replaced. As for prices, I saw some for cheap on the web. Here's a link. Thats only for the crank sprocket. I didn't look up the cam but its on the exploded diagram. Good luck.

http://www.dealerdirectparts.com/198...amry-dlx-4.htm
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 249,xxx miles - New water pump, TB etc etc
1989 Camry-Gone but not forgotten. Car has become a birthday gift for my cousin.
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles - New flasher relay installed.
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Old 06-07-2011, 07:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I recently replaced my timing belt and the seals mentioned above. The most difficult part of the job for me was removing the cam seal. Having the front of the engine so close to the strut tower makes it bear to get out. If you have decent oil presure, I'd probably just replace the seals mentioned and leave the old pump in place.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:19 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey thanks for all the replies! Sadly things have gone south on the project and I am goin to have to wrap it up today. I will be wire brushing the pulleys and getting them as smooth as possible.

I do however have one more question before my hard ware store run!! What type of sealant do I need for the water pump? Is the paper gasket good enough? The pump had some orange sealer when I removed it.

Any reply would be greatly appreciated as the wife of the man who graciously let me use his drive way, is getting very annsey about the liability of me working on my car there

Thanks,
Hotchi
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Old 06-08-2011, 05:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I just put a few dabs of black RTV on the gaskets to hold them to the water pump during assembly. Also, remember to use new O rings on the hard lines.

Good Luck - Paul
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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She runs!!! It's a beautiful site! Silent! Thanks for the help everyone
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