3sfe celica st162 teardown - in australia

[progenysw]

hi all,
new to forum, just seeing if i can post ... read on

[progenysw]

ok, here's the story
bought the car as a non runner. blown head gasket, oil like milk chocolate.
pulled the engine using a hoist and a tiedown strap. back of engine bay covered in oil so decided to do a full rebuild
head done, was warped, so been fixed with new valve seals and seats done
couple of questions pls
1. the haynes manual shows a hoist point somewhere on the r/h side of the block. can't find it . do i need to remove one of the bolts and attach a shacke to it?
2. what size chain do i need for the hoist chain ?
3. does anyone have one of these for parts? need some trim bits
thank you in advance, will post photos

[white90dx]

This is the gen2 Camry sub-forum - but we still have a 3s-fe engine so a lot crosses over...

Hoist points are on a hook bolted to the alternator bracket and a hook that is part of the spark plug wire bracket (next to the distributor).

You don't need anything too big for the chain - just be aware that the engine+transmission weighs maybe 600lbs. Just get a chain that is rated at least twice what you are lifting. I also double-up the chain when I'm lifting.

Check toymods for more local guys to you for the trim bits.

-Charlie

[progenysw]

jad a look at some phots and looks like in the later versions, theres a hook bolted to the block
like this one here
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...24kk9.jpg/sr=1
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0051_large.jpg
( are they using a seatbelt?)
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...52_819x614.jpg
i definitely dont have so we'll go to the wreckers and get one
is there only two hooks all up?
some photos show people also using the power steer bracket

[progenysw]

well, the monumental job is all done
x block rebored
x new piston& rings
x all new pumps
x new distributor
x new head ...
x new belt
put all together, banged it it back into the bay, and no bang! it just kinda splutters and doesn't catch
i get sparks on all four cylinders and there is burn residue on the sparks, so it must be firing.
i have left the air intake system off, although i have connected up the air sensor. everything else is attached
looks like the position of the distributor rotor is right (eg TDC and the no1 cylinder )
shorted the diagnostic pins and no error codes are showing ( continous falshing)
can anyone please help? have i left anything out?
thank you
ps does anyone how to tell #3 and #4 injector connectors. they're same length and the same colors

[MR2Jedi]

Is fuel getting into the cylinders?

[66conv6]

For the Camry, I believe someone has said in the past that the air intake system needs to be hooked up for the engine to run.

[MR2Jedi]

^ Ditto. If it uses an air flow meter, it must be hooked up or fuel pump will not engage.
If it's hooked up, move the flap to simulate air coming in and see if you can hear the fuel pump run.

[progenysw]

hooked up the intake. research indicates the sensor is just for air temp ( confirmed by code #8 if i disconnect). no change
i can hear the fuel pump startup briefly when i turn the key, so that's working
what esle could it be?

[white90dx]

Fuel injectors are batch fire, so there should be no difference between them - plug them in however you want.

I think you should check the timing belt install, along with the cam phasing inside the head since those parts have all been replaced.

Can you post a picture of the engine bay - it will be good for us North American guys to see what we are working with - other countries got slightly different external engine setups (air metering, exhaust, etc.).

-Charlie

[progenysw]

1. well, white90x was right! took off the valve cover to check for the timing marks and presto - the dots were off by 6 teeth. obviously i didn't read the manual thoroughly enough about the 2 sets of marks on the gears, so I aligned the wrong ones eg the factory assembly mark to the timing mark.
now the engine has so much comporession that the starter has trouble turnng over the crank, so i'll charge the batt. o.nite and will try again tonite
2. is there anyway to check the belt timing without taking off the whole belt cover. looks like there's a rubber inspection cover. maybe i can take that off and use a mirror?
at least the belt must be enageged though, because the cams turn when i turn the engine over
3. is there an easy way to check if the injectors are firing and the fuel pressure's ok? the manual talk about a pressure tester gadget

[white90dx]

You will need to remove the upper timing cover to do re-check the timing belt. Since the cams were so far out, just try it with them adjusted correctly and go from there. The belt is probably ok, especially if you did it out of the car.

-Charlie

[progenysw]

took off the timing cover ( what an incredible pain in the a.. to get to it, much worse in the Rh driver cars because the brake cylinder is right next to the cover) and the timing is spot on eg TDC 0 mark aligns with hole in the cam pulley against the cover mark
but... not a whimper of life.
any ideas? is it a fuel-related problem?

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by progenysw

took off the timing cover ( what an incredible pain in the a.. to get to it, much worse in the Rh driver cars because the brake cylinder is right next to the cover) and the timing is spot on eg TDC 0 mark aligns with hole in the cam pulley against the cover mark
but... not a whimper of life.
any ideas? is it a fuel-related problem?

Pop the spark plugs out after cranking - check for fuel smell on them. You can also do a compression test to make sure your cam work was correct.

I assume no codes still?

-Charlie

[progenysw]

used the fp/b test, pump runs ok, can feel pressure in the pipe. so will try to pulse an injector by running a wire from battery/ c if that works