88 front left axle match problem - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

tom42nm · 06-29-2011, 01:56 PM

I posted before on the problem I have finding a 88 camry 4cyl fwd 5 speed bolt on half axle Japan made.
The left ones just are not there.
Does anyone have the dimensions for this half shaft?
Anyone now if I can sub one from an automatic?
Tom

white90dx · 06-30-2011, 10:52 AM

You can't use the automatic axle, but what you can do is just use a later non-bolt-on style 5-speed axle without issue.

-Charlie

'88 All-Trac · 06-30-2011, 11:27 AM

Kinda off-topic: Do those bolt-on stubs work for the All-Trac?

On-topic: If they do work, I'll gladly pay the difference between bolt-on axles and one-piece axles if you'll ship 'em.

More on-topic: The one-piece axles, in my humble opinion, work perfectly fine... Though the snap rings are a nuisance; I have a very hard time with those. I still recommend those over hunting down the bolt-on kind.

Charlie, will the V6 axles work for his application?

white90dx · 06-30-2011, 11:41 AM

I am pretty sure the inner stubs are different between each transmission - 4 or 6 cylinder auto or manual, along with auto or manual Alltrac... Err... I take that back - V6 axles are the same between auto and manual.

Really though, the goal is to match the transmission side and the hub side (the easy side!) - it doesn't really matter what is in between unless you are breaking axle shafts (which I have done!).

Another reasonable option is to have your axles rebuild by an axle shop... then you don't have to worry about getting the right parts at all, you will just have to be without the car for an extra day or two.

-Charlie

Sturdavj · 06-30-2011, 03:57 PM

I ran into a similar problem on my 90’ axles.

I was able to pop out the short bolt-on stub axles from the 88’ transaxles, and then insert my new 90’ axles into the 88’ transaxle.

Both were automatics one a 88’ and one was a 90’

tom42nm · 07-01-2011, 01:54 PM

Found a couple places selling bolt on saying right and left are the same. I think that is true for automatic, not for five speed manual.
I have found a push in and wonder if it will fit Japan and US.
Could you explain the clip?
Passenger side seems to be no problem, just driver side.
Do I have check manufac date as 7/88 seems a change point.
Should I just buy a non bolt up for an 89 5sp japan fwd 4 cyl?
Thanks
Tom

white90dx · 07-01-2011, 06:20 PM

The clip is just a snap ring that is around the inner splined section of the axles (inside the transmission). It is the same on the bolt-in and snap in axles - the difference on the bolt-in axles is that you leave the short inner section 'snapped' into the transmission (you don't loose the trans fluid when changing the axles, among other things). In my experience, it takes two pry bars (one on each side of the axle) and a good amount of strength to pop the inner section out of the transmission. Drain the transmission or be ready for a fluid splash! Luckily, it is only necessary on the driver's side (the passenger side is held with an external c-clip at the jack-shaft bearing).

Just get the one-piece axle and pop it in place of your original one. The parts counter guy won't know the difference when you return your stock axle for a core return.

-Charlie

tom42nm · 07-12-2011, 04:08 PM

So the clip is on the end of the splined shaft and stays on when removing and when inserting through differential seal?

Any tips for removing trans fill plug?
Got it off once, now very tough. Stsarting to round off head.
Impact wrench?
Tom

white90dx · 07-12-2011, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom42nm

So the clip is on the end of the splined shaft and stays on when removing and when inserting through differential seal?

Any tips for removing trans fill plug?
Got it off once, now very tough. Stsarting to round off head.
Impact wrench?
Tom

Yeah, the clip is just a split ring that should stay on the shaft (and come with a new 1-piece axle).

Use a 6-sided socket. Always remove the fill plug(s) before the drain plugs (which it sounds like you might be doing already.

). Hopefully you don't have to cut it off...

-Charlie

Sturdavj · 07-13-2011, 02:48 PM

When I removed my trans fill plug, I used a 3/8" drive and 2 extension, a 4" & a 8" with a six sided socket.

I came at it from over the top of the rear cross member, they are tough to remove once they start to round. If you get stuck you may to drop the rear cross member to gain better access

good luck

tom42nm · 07-14-2011, 09:16 PM

Got the six point. (The nearest parts store is 35 miles away, a NAPA and CarQuest. The only six point in town was impact 1/2 drive. Lucky to get that!)
Now with passenger side bolt on axle (88 Camry 4cyl fwd 5sp) should I be able to unbolt outboard axle, move it out of the way, pull/drive out the shaft in the differential (unbolting the carrier bearing of course) to replace the differential seal?
Tom

white90dx · 07-15-2011, 11:14 AM

That should work. Its up to you whether you think it would be easier to separate the axle or pull it from the hub (remove the big axle nut and two bolts on the ball joint to get it out).

No need to unbolt the carrier bearing - just remove the cir-clip that holds the inner axle in place (at the carrier bearing). Unless of course, it is rusted in there... which has happened to me.

-Charlie

tom42nm · 07-15-2011, 07:23 PM

So the nuts and separation at the bolt on joint is not a simple pry the mating surfaces apart?
Tom
How to I det a sig that says
77 F350
77 F150
86 Jaguar XJ6
88 Toyota CamryWagon
91 Mercedes 300TE 4matic

white90dx · 07-16-2011, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom42nm

So the nuts and separation at the bolt on joint is not a simple pry the mating surfaces apart?
Tom

You should be able to pry the joint the joint apart after removing the bolts - I'm not 100% sure you will be able to get it out of the way to do what you need after that though.

For the signature, go to the "control panel" link near the top and look over all the options on your user control panel - it should be in there.

-Charlie

holmesnmanny · 07-18-2011, 03:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white90dx

The clip is just a snap ring that is around the inner splined section of the axles (inside the transmission). It is the same on the bolt-in and snap in axles - the difference on the bolt-in axles is that you leave the short inner section 'snapped' into the transmission (you don't loose the trans fluid when changing the axles, among other things). In my experience, it takes two pry bars (one on each side of the axle) and a good amount of strength to pop the inner section out of the transmission. Drain the transmission or be ready for a fluid splash! Luckily, it is only necessary on the driver's side (the passenger side is held with an external c-clip at the jack-shaft bearing).

Just get the one-piece axle and pop it in place of your original one. The parts counter guy won't know the difference when you return your stock axle for a core return.

-Charlie

Just to reconfirm since I had a shop do my two front axles when I first got my car. I have axles that use hex bolts. Is it really simply as easy as separating the axle from the knuckle and taking out the bolts and it just comes off? I'm assuming you're referring to people that have axles that have splines.

I never did watch the guy do my axles like I should have.