Testing the evaporator out of the car? (Gen2 Camry)

[DaveCC]

Well, I followed the good advice I'd gotten and ordered an expansion valve as part of my AC rebuild.

Today I pulled the evaporator from under the dash and this is what I found:

http://oi55.tinypic.com/4lh9o8.jpg

http://oi56.tinypic.com/egedj8.jpg

http://oi54.tinypic.com/20h3tky.jpg

In addition to the usual leaves and stuff, there is carpet fuzz caked around one spot. Is this evidence of a Freon & oil leak? It sure looks to me like it's the evaporator and not the o-ring joint of the expansion valve and tube. Or is it?

What is the best way to test the evaporator for leaks while it's out of the car?

(I sure wish there was a better forum in TN to post this. It's a question more than Gen2 Camry owners can answer. The Tech forum isn't visited very much, looking at the stats...)

Thanks,
Dave

1989 Toyota Camry LE 4-door miles (Japan built) 165K
2.0L, 4-cylinder engine (3S-FE)
4-speed auto trans (A140E)

[Doctor J]

You may do a bubble test by filling evaporator with dry air or nitrogen at 60 PSI
The picture of adapters and brief explanation how I did test my car's a/c system shown at My a/c project for 87 Camry
The evaporator fitting adapters are fairly easy to machine; one is used as a plug , another has fitting for gas supply.

[white90dx]

I don't think it would indicate a leak. Ever notice how the clothes dryer screen has uneven lint deposits? The air coming through the evaporator probably just flows right to that area more than others. It doesn't look like there is any excessive oil in that area...

My hunch is any leaks you have in your system are o-ring related...

-Charlie

[Doctor J]

I used 3 day static pressure drop test for each component and it indicated leak in the condenser.

[DaveCC]

The expansion valve's sensor bulb is attached to the line going to the evaporator with a metal strap. Around this is a *very* tightly adhered foam blanket: no space between the sensor/line and the blanket. I had to destroy it to get it off.

I know this insulation is necessary to avoid any sweating of the assembly which, I presume, effects the temperature sensing & regulation.

What is an equivalent insulator I can use from my tool box when I put in the new valve that will give the same results?

Thanks,
Dave