re: 89 V6 Camry Front Brakes...

[sfjen]

Aloha Folks-

Finally got the struts done in the front. Was looking at the brakes and I know they need attention. I feel pretty confident that I can do this and hope you can give some advice.

1. When I had to take off the brake caliper as I was doing the strut work, it seemed that the "disc" was loose, is the only thing that holds our "discs" in place the brake caliper system? Just curious about this as I saw nothing else holding it.

2. Parts: Do you all buy genuine Toyota discs and pads and caliper bolts-boots or do you buy after market? If you buy after market which brand or kits are good and are those slotted disc brakes good? Also, when you buy from either Toyota or after market have the discs already been "turned" so that they can be installed right away?

3. Tools: Are there any any special tools that one needs especially in regard to the "piston" being able to compress it can get over the new parts?

4. Grease-lubricants: What areas get grease or a lubricant: pads or bolts?

5. Have any of you painted your calipers and if so do you clean them off with brake cleaner or something else? And after painted how soon can the calipers be re-installed?

Thanks for any all help-advice.
Mahalo and Happy 4th of July

[atobe]

#1. that's how they are(floating caliper design) if you can some how figure a way to get the rotor to leave w/o taking of the caliper, then you some how defied the laws of physics,nature.
#2 brembo makes pretty good blank rotors i think they're about 36$ on tirerack. Slots also wear down the pads faster.(I never tried it, may be next set) I also run them with ebc pads they're kinda dusty for saying "dust free" on their box. But this combo stops pretty good. If you buy the rotors new there's no need to do anything before installing them, other than may be a quick spray with brake cleaner to get the oil,minerals off that was used during manufacturing.
#3 any C clamp that fits in there will work, or you can get the tool @ sears i think it's like 10-20$ anyways.
#4 NONE
#5 no idea never done it.

[sfjen]

Aloha Atobe-
Thanks so much for your reply. I forgot to add that my Camry is the V6 Wagon. So, I was looking at Tireracks website and it looks like they sell 2 different discs for the front: 1 for the non-wagon and 1 for the wagon. Is there a difference in what discs my wagon should be using? Thought that was different. Thanks again.
Mahalo,
glen

Originally Posted by atobe

#1. that's how they are(floating caliper design) if you can some how figure a way to get the rotor to leave w/o taking of the caliper, then you some how defied the laws of physics,nature.
#2 brembo makes pretty good blank rotors i think they're about 36$ on tirerack. Slots also wear down the pads faster.(I never tried it, may be next set) I also run them with ebc pads they're kinda dusty for saying "dust free" on their box. But this combo stops pretty good. If you buy the rotors new there's no need to do anything before installing them, other than may be a quick spray with brake cleaner to get the oil,minerals off that was used during manufacturing.
#3 any C clamp that fits in there will work, or you can get the tool @ sears i think it's like 10-20$ anyways.
#4 NONE
#5 no idea never done it.

[91 Camry]

#5. I actually painted my calipers flat black yesterday. I used CRC Brake cleaner. Sprayed it on and dried it off with a rag. did a coat of primer and 3 base coats of flat black.
just follow the instructions for your paint. as to when they can be handled and when it is fully cured. it is normally 24 hours...what i did with mine

[sfjen]

Aloha Atobe-
Forgot to ask you something: I am sure I will be cursed for this and I do not mind, let me know if this is not kosher:

So, I have been going to the local junk yard-pick your own part place regularly as I try to find parts for my wagon. Today, I come across this one Camry from I think 1991, in very nice shape and well cared for, maybe it was donated and they did not want to sell it. It was already elevated with the wheels off. My eye just happened to looked at the brakes and I swear the brake pads were almost new and evenly worn.

Would it be all right to use this pads? And feel free to tell me no! I was just so amazed that they looked almost brand new and were thick like new pads.

Thanks again for all your help.
mahalo,
Glen
PS: do you ever use the stuff that helps the brakes not to squeak, I think it is put onto the metal plates that attach to the pads?

[91 Camry]

Originally Posted by sfjen

Aloha Atobe-
Forgot to ask you something: I am sure I will be cursed for this and I do not mind, let me know if this is not kosher:

So, I have been going to the local junk yard-pick your own part place regularly as I try to find parts for my wagon. Today, I come across this one Camry from I think 1991, in very nice shape and well cared for, maybe it was donated and they did not want to sell it. It was already elevated with the wheels off. My eye just happened to looked at the brakes and I swear the brake pads were almost new and evenly worn.

Would it be all right to use this pads? And feel free to tell me no! I was just so amazed that they looked almost brand new and were thick like new pads.

Thanks again for all your help.
mahalo,
Glen
PS: do you ever use the stuff that helps the brakes not to squeak, I think it is put onto the metal plates that attach to the pads?

only use that stuff if your brakes sqeak. if they dont, just let them be

[sfjen]

Aloha 91-thanks for the advice on that and what you did to paint your calipers. I was just thinking about it. What do you think about "reusing" the almost brand new brake pads I found today on another car? I felt the silence was deafening (meaning you might be trying to say, don't do that!)!
Mahalo

Originally Posted by 91 Camry

only use that stuff if your brakes sqeak. if they dont, just let them be

[91 Camry]

i dont know about that. if the pads for the wagons are interchangeable with the sedans, and they still seem to have some meat on them, i say go for it! but i dont know for sure if they are interchangeable

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by sfjen

Aloha Folks-

Finally got the struts done in the front. Was looking at the brakes and I know they need attention. I feel pretty confident that I can do this and hope you can give some advice.

1. When I had to take off the brake caliper as I was doing the strut work, it seemed that the "disc" was loose, is the only thing that holds our "discs" in place the brake caliper system? Just curious about this as I saw nothing else holding it.

2. Parts: Do you all buy genuine Toyota discs and pads and caliper bolts-boots or do you buy after market? If you buy after market which brand or kits are good and are those slotted disc brakes good? Also, when you buy from either Toyota or after market have the discs already been "turned" so that they can be installed right away?

3. Tools: Are there any any special tools that one needs especially in regard to the "piston" being able to compress it can get over the new parts?

4. Grease-lubricants: What areas get grease or a lubricant: pads or bolts?

5. Have any of you painted your calipers and if so do you clean them off with brake cleaner or something else? And after painted how soon can the calipers be re-installed?

Thanks for any all help-advice.
Mahalo and Happy 4th of July

Here's my version:

1. The disk is centered by the hub and held in place by the wheel. It isn't going anywhere unless the wheel is off, which shouldn't happen while you are driving! Feel lucky that your disks are loose - they can rust on there and be very hard to take off sometimes...

2. Use whatever parts for the disks and pads. Unless you are doing high performance driving, any should be fine. If you can lock up the brakes, you have enough braking power. Any disks you buy new should be ready to install after cleaning with brake parts cleaner (they are shipped oiled to stop rusting and it needs to be cleaned off). There is little reason to get slotted rotors. They wear pads faster, are more expensive and (think about this) have slightly less surface area for actual braking. The up side is that they wear pads faster (removing glazing if you heat them up to much) and look 'cool'. (yes, I have them on the fronts in my WRX... )

3. The piston should easily compress with no special tools, though you can use a c-clamp to make it easy. Other cars sometimes need a special tool.

4. The slider pins that the caliper ride on should be lightly greased. Also make sure they look like they are still in good shape - they can wear and cause braking problems (uneven pad wear, bad brake performance, etc.). The back side of the pads can also be greased to reduce the chance of brake squeaking - it is not there for lubrication, but to absorb the vibration of the pads that makes the squeal/squeak.

5. Brake cleaner and scrubbing with a wire brush should be good unless the calipers are rusty should be good. Make sure to use high-heat paints...

-Charlie

[sfjen]

Aloha Charlie-
Thanks for heads up about using a c-clamp to compress the piston. Also, about the slider pins. I wonder if I should get that from Toyota or just any parts store for those slider pins? Also, the part about cleaning of the rotors with brake cleaner because they are shipped with an oil coating is good to know!
Mahalo
glen

Originally Posted by white90dx

Here's my version:


3. The piston should easily compress with no special tools, though you can use a c-clamp to make it easy. Other cars sometimes need a special tool.

4. The slider pins that the caliper ride on should be lightly greased. Also make sure they look like they are still in good shape - they can wear and cause braking problems (uneven pad wear, bad brake performance, etc.). The back side of the pads can also be greased to reduce the chance of brake squeaking - it is not there for lubrication, but to absorb the vibration of the pads that makes the squeal/squeak.

5. Brake cleaner and scrubbing with a wire brush should be good unless the calipers are rusty should be good. Make sure to use high-heat paints...

-Charlie

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by sfjen

Aloha Charlie-
Thanks for heads up about using a c-clamp to compress the piston. Also, about the slider pins. I wonder if I should get that from Toyota or just any parts store for those slider pins? Also, the part about cleaning of the rotors with brake cleaner because they are shipped with an oil coating is good to know!
Mahalo
glen

You shouldn't need to replace the slider pins. Just check them and make sure they move freely. (not loose, there will be some 'viscosity' to it) They are probably a Toyota-only part. They are really more like long bolts with a special shank on them. They both hold the caliper in place (radially and axially) and allow movement (depth or z-axis) as the pads are squeezed together.

-Charlie