Flywheel inspection plate

[dem2757]

is the only way to get this off by removing the center cross member? the service manual goes
remove drive plate cover blah blah blah.

except its behind this big support. if anyone has taken it off without the member being dropped i would love a how to on it. i need to check my torque converter bolts

[white90dx]

Remove the starter instead.

-Charlie

[dem2757]

can i still access the torque converter bolts?

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by dem2757

can i still access the torque converter bolts?

I thought about it after my post... if they come in from the engine side, no... thought there is a cover plate opposite the starter that can also be removed. I'm not sure how much the exhaust manifold would be in the way for that one. You can at least verify that all the bolts are in place through the starter hole.

The lower crossmember isn't that hard to remove though... 4x 19mm, 9x 14mm and a few 10mm bolts, if I remember right. You don't have to support the engine during the process, as it still has the two hanger mounts in place.

Why do you suspect anything with the torque converter bolts?

-Charlie

[dem2757]

oh okay. i read somewhere on here that if the bolts are loose then it makes an ticking sound like an egg whisker.

i have this sound when in reverse and drive 2 and L but not nuetral or park so i suspect it might be the bolts. well. hopeso

[Doctor J]

That nosise may come from exhaust or even the drive belts.
The quick and dirty ghetto procedure to access TC bolts is to bend the exposed portion of the bellhousing cover toward the exhaust manifold after removal of one 14 mm bolt. However, if you bent this cover too much, you may not be able to bent it back like it supposed to be.

[dem2757]

could it quite possibly be my timing belt?

its only when in gear, and the belt is under the most stress when in gear, and when under load it is very noticeable. belt is old too.

['88 All-Trac]

How is the belt placed under increased stress when the engine is under load? Sorry, I don't quite understand but I'm also very tired.

I used to get a sort of ticking... Was a loose nut holding the exhaust manifold on.

[dem2757]

the crank pulley drives the belt around the two camsaft sprokets. when the crank spins faster due to the faster rpms, the belt is spinning faster and turned harder. hence why most belts snap or tear when under load and not at idle. i need to post a video of the sound. its bothering me severly

['88 All-Trac]

I suppose that makes sense, but I usually place load and engine speed in different categories, which is why I was confused. Thank you for clarifying that for me.

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by dem2757

the crank pulley drives the belt around the two camsaft sprokets. when the crank spins faster due to the faster rpms, the belt is spinning faster and turned harder. hence why most belts snap or tear when under load and not at idle. i need to post a video of the sound. its bothering me severly

Timing belts often snap at or near idle... or rather, just coming off idle. My Alltrac timing belt snapped in stop and go traffic on the freeway like this. (then again, the other 3s-fe timing belt snap happened at freeway speeds...). The widely spaced pulses of the engine 'tug' alternately on the belt, especially if it is loose. A high speeds, it is a much more constant pulling, which is also a stress.

-Charlie

[dem2757]

that too haha.

i think something is loose in the transmission cause its definitely metallic

[Doctor J]

Try to do the stall test; if noise will get bigger then it most likely the TC or related components

[dem2757]

it gets bigger and louder the higher the rpm. it doesnt sound necessarily "faster" though, if that makes sense?