1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
The 2VZFE in my 91 Camry has seen better days even though it still pulls like a train.My question is,should I rebuild it with a turbo or leave it in naturally aspirated form?
why would you spend that kind of money and time rebuilding a 91 camry with turbo? i don't see how it would be worth it, given that it is a camry and how old it is.
__________________
2005 Toyota Solara SE 2.4L
2004 Subaru Impreza WRX 2.0L
2011 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 5.4L
why would you spend that kind of money and time rebuilding a 91 camry with turbo? i don't see how it would be worth it, given that it is a camry and how old it is.
Why?...Why do people take oddball cars and modify them?
It has 240,000 kms on it and an auto tranny.I don`t want to be fitting 1MZs or anything like that.My point is:Is the 2VZFE robust enough to either receive boost or be modified in N/A form?
you can get custom parts for it, there is not a big support for the 2nd gen aftermarket performance though.
build a y pipe under the engine though, that helps a lot with the hp and flow of the engine. the ugly crossover robs it of power and heats up the rear bank too much.
IF YOU TURBO IT::::::
you need to get new pistons and a new crank. re-bore your block or get a new block and heads from a lower mileage engine. the internals of the 2vz ARE strong enough to handle boost IF the crank and pistons dont have age. if you boosted it without modifying the internals youd probably throw a bearing. probably gonna need to clean your injectors or get better flow ones.
Modifying the N/A engine would be cheaper and easier
Turboing would be $$$$$$$$$
The Following User Says Thank You to dem2757 For This Useful Post:
you can get custom parts for it, there is not a big support for the 2nd gen aftermarket performance though.
build a y pipe under the engine though, that helps a lot with the hp and flow of the engine. the ugly crossover robs it of power and heats up the rear bank too much.
IF YOU TURBO IT::::::
you need to get new pistons and a new crank. re-bore your block or get a new block and heads from a lower mileage engine. the internals of the 2vz ARE strong enough to handle boost IF the crank and pistons dont have age. if you boosted it without modifying the internals youd probably throw a bearing. probably gonna need to clean your injectors or get better flow ones.
Modifying the N/A engine would be cheaper and easier
Turboing would be $$$$$$$$$
Thanks again mate.The N/A route sounds like the most practical.I suppose the y pipe would lend itself to the easiest turbo installation ever but the internal work on top sounds elaborate...I`m crazy,but not foolish I suppose the exhaust,cams and some head cleaning up should provide me with sufficient power huh?.
very much so. just build the custom y pipe to get the better exhaust flow and then clean up your top end for best results. add a cold air intake and relocate your battery to get the better air flow.
Thanks again mate.The N/A route sounds like the most practical.I suppose the y pipe would lend itself to the easiest turbo installation ever but the internal work on top sounds elaborate...I`m crazy,but not foolish I suppose the exhaust,cams and some head cleaning up should provide me with sufficient power huh?.
Really though, what are your goals? What is sufficient power? Answer those questions honestly first, and then you can more easily figure out a plan of action.
If you want 20 more horsepower - keep it N/A. If you want 100 more horsepower... well, forced induction is much more cost effective (actually, a motor swap would be better at that point...).
-Charlie
__________________
2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
if he wants 100 more HP, he's going to need a driveline replacement, suspension replacement, frame stiffening, better/wider tires, fuel system upgrade, etc. etc. etc.
__________________
2005 Toyota Solara SE 2.4L
2004 Subaru Impreza WRX 2.0L
2011 Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 5.4L
if he wants 100 more HP, he's going to need a driveline replacement, suspension replacement, frame stiffening, better/wider tires, fuel system upgrade, etc. etc. etc.
exactly. just add 30-40 with some tune ups and youll have a decently quick car. the 2nd gen isnt a heavy sedan so pulling 180-190 would be fun, especially with a 5 speed.
Really though, what are your goals? What is sufficient power? Answer those questions honestly first, and then you can more easily figure out a plan of action.
If you want 20 more horsepower - keep it N/A. If you want 100 more horsepower... well, forced induction is much more cost effective (actually, a motor swap would be better at that point...).
-Charlie
Ok,here`s the low down.The vehicle which I happen to possess here in Australia wasn`t manufactured in high numbers,at least not with all the extras and "imported from Japan" V6.Now,as far as I know,this version (with V6) never had a manual as an option,thus leaving me with a dilemma of sourcing a manual gearbox.Then,there`s the rest of the driveline to consider as well such as diff,driveshafts etc,and then you have compliance.I`m not sure how the laws work where you are but here in Oz,you can`t just fit a turbo to a non turbo manufactured car and go un-noticed,especially by the cops or road traffic authority who may pull you over.Hardly worth the hassle for 70 odd kilowatts,doncha think?I may as well stick with the N/A and auto trans,which I`m sure with a cooler and shift kit would be happy with even up to 50 extra N/A kilowatts.I`m sure this is achievable without a turbo.You see,this car was purchased recently as a project in mind.Budget for the car is $5000 AUD,with much of the work,including body performed by myself.In fact,the only outside work may well be the suspension,in as far as labour goes,that is,and labour,as yuo well know,eats up a big portion of one`s budget.I`ve done it to other cars in the past with mods of varying degrees,then sell them as I get bored.It`s not gonna be a show stopper or a quarter mile tearer,just a comfortable cruiser with some added grunt to add to it`s looks.The suspension will be lowered after I repair a bit of rust and a couple of dents.It will be out of the ordinary,yes,but then again,I`ve been known to always seem to modify the cars that others won`t
Edit:The budget is obviously revised without a turbo in mind.Another 3 grand or so would have been added for forced induction.You see,I`m the type that would purchase a turbo,or a wastegate,or a cold air induction and throttle body set-up on Ebay or the wreckers,or add a piggy back chip to the ECU rather than a Wolf 3d or,tell my friend at the exhaust shop that I want the least expensive yet most effective set-up for either turbo or N/A,or purchase and fit/have fitted the least expensive yet most effective suspension set-up,or straighten and paint my own car.It may be inexpensive,but cheap it ain`t.Everything I`ve done and in most cases,had done to it was done properly.
Last edited by TWO-VEE-ZED; 07-15-2011 at 09:46 PM.
Reason: Forgot extra info.
exactly. just add 30-40 with some tune ups and youll have a decently quick car. the 2nd gen isnt a heavy sedan so pulling 180-190 would be fun, especially with a 5 speed.
Unfortunately mine is mate.With the whole caboodle(Electric windows,power this and that and blah blah),it weighs in at around 1300 kgs-fairly heavy,even for a V6 of only 2.5 litres.Then again,in the Toyotas they have here,the Japs are famous for saddling heavy bodies to otherwise decent,but in this case not quite right for the job engines.Another example is my ex`s Soarer which I personally purchased whilst in Japan in `99.It has a N/A 2JZ-A beaut and powerful engine,even without a turbo,yet when fitted to a car that weighs almost two tons,it lacks a bit in the take off department,as does my Camry.With another 40-50 kilowatts and more torque,it should hopefully overcome that
Last edited by TWO-VEE-ZED; 07-15-2011 at 07:48 PM.
Reason: Made a mistake in wordin
Manual swap (yes, it can and has been done in Aus/OZ, search "JetSpeedCamry" here) and headers/full exhaust. That will get you the speed you want (it will probably be 30-40% more power at the wheels) and you won't have any problems with engineering/safety inspections.
Too bad though, because for your budget you could have close to 300hp from a 3s-gte... (but down there would require upgraded brakes, and the inspections, etc.) It is all illegal up here, but it isn't too hard to stay 'under the radar' about it.
-Charlie
__________________
2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.