Transmission jerks hard when going into Reverse and partly when going into Drive - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

holmesnmanny · 07-28-2011, 01:01 AM

Yes, I have looked extensively and can't find an answer.

I have been working on this for quite a while. The transmission has no problems whatsoever out of the fact that when I put it into Reverse it jerks really hard and makes a noise. It also does it when going into Drive but it's not as bad. The axles are both brand new Oreilly axles. The mounts are as of a now completely new. I have adjusted the kickdown cable and that doesn't help. As I already said, the transmission has NO other problems. It shifts great, doesn't slip, changes all gears fast and smooth and exhibits nothing else. It would appear there is too much play somewhere where the axles meet the transmission or I would hate it to be the transmission itself, it's like maybe the splines are bad. Looking over the diagrams at toyotapartszone I can't really tell what it could be. Whatever the axles go onto(they attach something using hex bolts), maybe it's that or maybe it's whatever that piece that goes into the transmission could be the culprit. When I put it into drive and let it idle it has a clunking as if there is too much play too, like it's rattling wherever it is that it has too much play. When I put it into neutral the rattling goes away. This engine is in complete perfect shape and almost everything under the hood is either new or completely cleaned out. I have this car in perfect shape.

Anyone have any ideas ?

Doctor J · 07-28-2011, 08:54 AM

Check the differential oil level
The similar problem takes place when the oil level is too low causing wear in the differential pinion bushings

holmesnmanny · 07-28-2011, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doctor J

Check the differential oil level
The similar problem takes place when the oil level is too low causing wear in the differential pinion bushings

The tranmission fluid has about 6 drain and fills. I also dropped the pan and cleaned it out and replaced the filter. There were absolutely no shavings at all. It just had some sludge.

I have drained and refilled the differential fluid. There were, however, shavings at the magnetic plug. I used a hand pump to refill it until it started flowing out of the filler hole.

dem2757 · 07-29-2011, 10:50 AM

post a vid of the noise please if you can!

holmesnmanny · 07-30-2011, 05:44 AM

I took it down to a trusted mechanic and he said it was simply a sign of the transmission going out. I got a price quote from attarco to rebuild it for 495 including a rebuilt torque converter so I'm probably going to go that route. It's not a major problem at this point but I'm going to probably pull it within the month. This won't be so bad since I need to replace all the seals and the belt, replace some of the freeze plugs, the power steering pump, and most of all, the rear main seal as well.

'88 All-Trac · 07-30-2011, 06:39 PM

Wow, only $495 with a rebuilt TC? That's a smokin' deal! Good find. Last quote I got for a tranny rebuild was on a standard north-south orientation GM 3L30... For $1200.

holmesnmanny · 07-31-2011, 01:42 AM

There are people on ebay that have good reviews that do rebuilds

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus...Q5fAccessories

Here's a quote for what I found. It says sold out but I called and they do them for that price.

http://www.attarco.com/index.php?mai...&products_id=8

I bought an h22a honda motor from them that was as good as advertised.

Doctor J · 08-01-2011, 10:02 AM

Get the second opinion; do the stall test. Ask to explain what part is to be going out?
A clunk noise at the torque applied calls for the differential wear or for the wear in OD gear set (located under the rear transmission cover).

holmesnmanny · 08-02-2011, 02:15 AM

Ok, I'm going to take it down to aamco for a free diagnostic check in the next couple days.

Like I said, shifting and driving isn't a problem, it shifts fine, doesn't slip, and doesn't delay going into any gear, but I hear the play when I'm driving. Like I said, all the mounts are good. I actually replaced the center and rear mounts when I first got the car. Then I replaced the passenger side and then transmission side about 5 months later, then the front mount, when I knew something was still wrong. I checked the rear mount and saw it was broken, probably because all the other mounts were bad when I replaced it and all the pressure was on it. So I replaced that hoping that the jerking from drive to reverse would go away and it didn't. It's really a hard jerk and I hear a clunking when I take off in drive and in reverse. I know all of my struts and strut mounts are bad as well so that will need to be replaced.

Doctor J, my cv shafts are the bolts-on type, that go onto another piece on either side, the passenger or driver side, that in turn goes into the transmission. Is there any way that either one of those intermediate pieces are bad ? If they could be, I know how to get the shafts off but I don't know about those pieces. They have a snap ring that I would probably have to buy a tool for.

Doctor J · 08-02-2011, 08:40 AM

The worn struts and hard upper suspension supports can cause jerks under intitial torque
The "stub shafts' to which axles are bolted to are going into the bushings these bushings can get worn (it is common on 4 cylinder car, driver side). Check the axial and up and down play of each with axle attached

holmesnmanny · 08-02-2011, 10:25 PM

Hey Doctor J, I called a couple of dealerships and they're telling me that I have to buy the whole assembly in order to get the intermediate shafts. Furthermore, I consulted by alldata manual and it only shows the 4 cylinder model but it shows both a "center drive shaft" and "side gear shaft". Can you help out with parts and part numbers. I also looked at toyotapartszone and it doesn't show those pieces. It shows a bunch of parts but nothing like that.

can you help me out ? I may just go down to the junkyard and take apart one and take that down to the dealer and see what they think if I have to.

http://www.mediafire.com/i/?4ti2bomdifevr75

holmesnmanny · 08-02-2011, 10:46 PM

Also, when I put the car in drive I hear the clunking that has the "beat" of the engine itself. When I take it out of the gear the sound goes away so I know it's drivetrain related. Can all of this possibly be the worn struts afterall? I just can't imagine the suspension being the cause of that sound when I move the car from drive to reverse but you would have more experience.

white90dx · 08-03-2011, 11:33 AM

The intermediate and stub shafts don't wear it would be the carrier bearing that would wear (at the bracket to the block). I got complete shafts from the junkyard that were totally mistreated and the stub shafts were still fine (I just needed the stub shafts, carrier, etc.).

You can get under there and wiggle things around to see if there is any play. There will be a bit right at the transmission but everywhere else should be free of play.

After verifying it isn't suspension, I would guess it is coming from inside the transmission...

-Charlie

Doctor J · 08-03-2011, 03:42 PM

It can be a silly statement but sometimes when the front and rear motor mounts are not aligned properly, the engine metal will touch the frame when car is put in gear [forward or reverse] and will transmit all noise into the frame.
With car in gear and handbrake set wheels locked get a listening device and touch various parts of the transmission housing to hear the noise.
The only part of the transmission that makes noise in all gears except P & N with car standing still is the torque converter.

dem2757 · 08-03-2011, 10:49 PM

i get the same type of issue. noise when in reverse and drive. a ticking metallic noise that matches rpms. Car shifts fine except overdrive wont lock up. fluid is new, not burnt and coming clean red with no metal.

only get a "clunk" when putting into drive in the winter when its at 20 degrees Fahrenheit. 2VZFE A540E