Thamnks for axle help, now engine problem 88 camry

[tom42nm]

Recently posted on finding correct axles for 88 Camry wagon, 4 cyl. fwd. 5 speed. 195000miles.
Found a place in Utah to rebuild the original.
This car is new to me.
I got the bolt on drive shafts working (bolts on the pass side carriar bearing fell out and the axle drifted out of the diff an inch or so while driving 55!) with no major tran or diff damage.
After driving approx 1000 miles (35mpg/mostly highway) I noticed that in 4th or 5th the engine would seem to load a bit then smooth out.
Suddenly today I have a rough acceleration, smooths out at higher (2000) rpm when sitting in the driveway.
Drove about 70 mi and seems a little rough, smooths out, a little rough etc.
Of course I am going to check the plugs, although this feels more like fuel or spark.
Any ideas greatly appreciated.
Tom

[tom42nm]

PO told me they were changed recently. He was incorrect.
Maybe 2004.
Did find a lot of oil in #3 plug reservoir on plug wire. Is that a concern?
Cleaned up, new plugs (side of cardboard plug box + top = .032 right?) runs good, slight stumble on first acc pedal at low rpm.
So, new to me like I said. Obvious major tuneup, wires,cap, coil?
Also need to find oil leak(s).
Ring gear needs to be replaced. My wife does not appreciate having to rock the car 50 percent of the time to start it.
If I am doing the timing belt scenario and the flywheel (might as well do clutch too) should I pull the engine (have hydraulic hoist)?
Thanks again
(I do search this place all the time on this car. Wish posters would id the vehicle right away. Saves time.)
Tom

[white90dx]

Not sure why nobody else has responded...

You probably need a new coil for the ignition problems, though I would check the spark plug gap with the right too also. Hopefully you used Denso or NGK plugs - just the standard coppers - they work well and are cheap. Wires+cap and rotor would also be good to change if you don't know their age. Go with stock ignition components if you plan on keeping the car for a while - they cost more but actually work.

Oil in the spark plug tube should be fixed. It is either a leak around the top (donut seal on the valve cover) or at the base (sealant around the tube). Do the valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals and see if that fixes it. Re-sealing the bottom of the tube is more difficult.

For the starter... are you sure it is the ring gear on the flywheel? Pull the starter to verify. I would suggest cleaning or replacing the starter solenoid contacts and possibly adding a secondary starter relay (see the stickied post at the top). Any loss of voltage at the starter solenoid can cause problems.

-Charlie

[tom42nm]

Charlie. This is my 5th attempt to reply.
There is something wrong with this website. I log in, post a reply and get the message thast I am not logged in. Also, many times the site loads to blank frames and quits.

Plugs took care of major missing, but still at idle up to 1500 rpm.
Pulled dist cap and have oil. Know I've seen discussion of that but cannot search anymore with the current state of affairs (do they want me to be a paid user? mI will if I can be sure it will work.
Pull dist and replace oring or seal on shaft?
Is there a way to check coil?
Pretty sure ring gear from ppo and po. If I pull starter in no start position, should be able to see ing gear?
Hope this posts.
Tom

[tom42nm]

If I use quick reply it seems to go through.
New dist cap, rotor and wires cured the problem with the low idle miss and surging.
When you say stock do you mean oem like Denso etdc.?
Carquest and Napa here have to order everything.
Next is the oil leak(s) and the starter problem.
Thanns, Tom

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by tom42nm

If I use quick reply it seems to go through.
New dist cap, rotor and wires cured the problem with the low idle miss and surging.
When you say stock do you mean oem like Denso etdc.?
Carquest and Napa here have to order everything.
Next is the oil leak(s) and the starter problem.
Thanns, Tom

Odd about the login issues. I have never had any problems (and I'm a non-paid user - and have used both Mac and PC with multiple browsers).

Glad to hear the ignition problems are better now. Normal distributor oil leak is from the o-ring that you can buy separate, but it can also leak internally requiring a full distributor rebuild kit (or new distributor). Oil in the distributor can cause ignition problems, so you should probably fix it. You can visually inspect the coil (look for cracks) and you can check with a multi-meter. Often, even new coils are right at the edge of the electrical spec, but seem to work just fine.

If you get just one click (or no click) when the starter isn't working, you probably have an issue with the starter solenoid (follow the plan from my first post). If you get grinding or crunching noises, it is a ring gear or starter gear problem. If you have the no-start problem and it is the ring gear, you can remove the starter and see a small section of the ring gear where it would meet the starter. There is also a large inspection plate below the motor, but you have to remove the lower cross members to get to it.

-Charlie

Edit: PS - when I say stock, I mean OEM - like, with a Toyota part number on the bag/box. Ignition components are one of the places it make a difference on these cars. Filters, oil, etc. you can get from anywhere...

[tom42nm]

Thought I would continue this thread as the issues are the same.

Recently posted re loss of power at 55 (and now loads at all speeds).
88 4cyl power loss at 55mph

Oil inside distributor cap so emailed kbox to make sure the kit would fit this dist. Will double check coil when I pull, mark position on engine and dist body so it all goes back without a timing issue.
See, I have learned a lot from searches on this forum
Is there a way to post pictures here to document steps in case anyone would like to see them?

Replaced starter with Denso which worked fine for about 2 months and then just grinds or does not engage. Jumpered direct from battery to starter with the same results.
Soo- ordered a ring gear and am tackling the transaxle removal this week.
Muchas Gracias

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by tom42nm

Oil inside distributor cap so emailed kbox to make sure the kit would fit this dist. Will double check coil when I pull, mark position on engine and dist body so it all goes back without a timing issue.
See, I have learned a lot from searches on this forum
Is there a way to post pictures here to document steps in case anyone would like to see them?

Replaced starter with Denso which worked fine for about 2 months and then just grinds or does not engage. Jumpered direct from battery to starter with the same results.
Soo- ordered a ring gear and am tackling the transaxle removal this week.
Muchas Gracias

You can upload pictures to your gallery on here (I think) or use any of the standard photo sharing websites (I use photobucket). You can link them here using the "[ I M G ]" tag (remove spaces, use the shortcut in the editing window or the link you can get from the photo sharing website). Put in your descriptive text, and you are done.



Quote this post and you can see how its done...

Have you checked to make sure the starter problem is your flex plate and not the starter teeth? The starter solenoid may not be fully pushing the starter gear out before spinning, which would give you the problem you are seeing.

-Charlie

[tom42nm]

Uploaded distributor picture to photobucket.
Now to see if I can get it into the post.
Remember- I just got this car!

[tom42nm]

Well it worked, so I can post pictures through the process of neglected maintenance.
Thanks.

[tom42nm]

Cracks in the coil?
This one has .8 ohms pos/neg and 9.6K pos and high tension.
Car ran fine and acted up about 20 mi ago.
Remember- resurrecting, not my maintenance.
If it ran this long with a coil like that -I love this car!

[dem2757]

dammmmmmmmnnnnnnnnnn that is one effed up dizzy

[tom42nm]

And still running!

[71Corolla]

It's only melted on the bottom.

[tom42nm]

Nothing a little JB Weld can't handle!