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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-17-2011, 06:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine mounts

I can remove these two crossmembers without needing to support the engine correct?





Me engine is noticeably flexing when in gear, and i need to change the front rear and center mounts.

Preferably WITHOUT my heavy V6 crushing me haha

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Old 08-17-2011, 07:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
 
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Yup, as long as the two upper mounts are in place (transmission (under the air box) and engine (timing belt side))

Don't be afraid to remove them, it is much easier than trying to wiggle the mounts out without removing them.

-Charlie
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Old 08-17-2011, 10:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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sweet thanks!
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Old 08-18-2011, 03:41 AM   #4 (permalink)
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FYI All three of the "other" mounts(front, center, rear) lower mounting bolts go through that center mounting member. When removing that center member you will need to take off the other three mounts.
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:13 AM   #5 (permalink)
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would you advise me to try and crack the mount center bolts first before i loosen the mount to crossmember bolts?
or can i just take the crossmember off, leave the mounts attatched to the engine and then unbolt the 3?
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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It is easier to pull the engine mounting bolts on the X-member, then X-member. This will allow for the best access for the engine mounting bolts.

When re-assembling I use Loctite 242 blue, I think Toyota uses 277 red. In any case be sure to use loctite on your nuts/bolts,
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sturdavj View Post
It is easier to pull the engine mounting bolts on the X-member, then X-member. This will allow for the best access for the engine mounting bolts.

When re-assembling I use Loctite 242 blue, I think Toyota uses 277 red. In any case be sure to use loctite on your nuts/bolts,
I don't think there is any Loctite on those engine mount bolts... If they are torqued correctly, they shouldn't come loose (mine haven't with 10's of thousands of miles with hardened motor mounts with multiple engines). I guess you can tell if there was some sort of thread locker on there when you take them apart though... Definitely don't use any 'permanent' thread locker on any of those bolts/nuts.

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Old 08-18-2011, 10:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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good advice from everyone! i hope this resolves a lot of my sound/ clunk problems
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Howdy Charlie

Toyota’s thread locker is used on the X-member bolts where they bolt into the sub frame assembly. At least when I dropped mine it was.

Yes your right thread locker might not be needed……

242 blue is serviceable/removable, ½ step above no thread locker. Being an ol’l biker I am in the habit of using blue on anything that vibrates..

JS
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sturdavj View Post
[COLOR=black]242 blue is serviceable/removable, ½ step above no thread locker. Being an ol’l biker I am in the habit of using blue on anything that vibrates..

JS
I would use loctite on almost all fasteners on a motorcycle... (heck, I do even on my mountain bike)

On my cars though, I only use threadlocker on internal engine/transmission fasteners. Oh, and thread sealant/locker on the flywheel/flexplate bolts - learned that one the hard way.

-Charlie
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:40 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I agree
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