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1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991. Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 08-25-2011, 04:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Battery doesn't hold a charge even though battery and alternator are new

Hey all, I'm new to this website. I have a 1987 Camry (4 cylinder, 4door). I don't really know much about cars, plus my usual mechanic is stumped, so I thought I'd bring my situation here. My car has 187,000 miles on it. I bought it used at 156,000 miles. Beginning 1 year ago, the car battery started holding less and less of a charge, giving a slow crank at startup. Eventually, the battery would no longer hold a charge from the alternator, and died alltogether. I went and bought a brand new batttery for the car. Within 2 months, the (new) battery was dead, also no longer holding a charge. Took my car to my regular mechanic. First thing he did was start the car, then disconnected 1 of the battery terminals. The engine immediately died. He explained to me that the problem was the alternator. It was no longer working properly, so it no longer giving the battery (or the engine) the juice they needed to stay operational. He said the car needed a new alternator. He put on a brand new alternator, and charged the battery to full capacity. New problem. Even with a brand new alternator and a fully charged battery, if I let the car sit for more than approx. 7 days without using it, the battery completely dies alltogether giving me NO crank at startup, not even an ignition click when I turn the key. Took the car back to the mechanic. He tested the output voltage of the alternator and said it was perfectly in spec for my car. I suggested putting in a stronger powered alternator. He said an alternator with too high a voltage output will overcharge and damage the battery. I have not been back to him since. What I did (for the meantime) is bought a Schumacher portable charger. When the battery's cranks start sounding too slow, I take it out, charge it overnight, and put in back in the car before going to work the next day. I have to do this 2 or 3 times a month.
My question to you all is, what could be making every battery that I put in that car drain within a week of non usage? If the alternator is in spec and works, why is the battery not getting charged sufficiently during normal use? And why would a fully charged car battery DRAIN EMPTY if the car has not been driven for 5 to 7 days? Any help regarding this matter would be GREATLY appreciated!
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Most likely you have something draining the battery. For instance, a trunk light staying on or a power seat, window or other accessory with perhaps a bad switch so the motor continues to draw current even tho it's run to it's limit.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the desolate one View Post
And why would a fully charged car battery DRAIN EMPTY if the car has not been driven for 5 to 7 days? Any help regarding this matter would be GREATLY appreciated!
I'm not saying this is your issue, but offering it up as a line of thought for you and your mechanic to consider. I had a very similar kind of issue with my Highlander some months back that went unsolved until a repair shop that specialized in electrical systems narrowed the problem down to the regulator for the A/C compressor clutch. Apparently what was happening was the bad relay was allowing the compressor clutch to constantly engage/disengage all night long even though the car was turned off, and within just a couple of days that "unseen" action would wear the battery down to a dead state. Regulator replaced and the issue was resolved. Just some food for thought.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yup, it sounds like it is time to break out the multimeter and look for the hidden power drain.

Any chance you aren't turning the key to the full off position when you remove the key? (you should have to push the black button above the key to turn it to the off position) With worn keys you can remove the key in any ignition position...

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Old 08-25-2011, 09:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I second white90dx. My ignition key comes out in any position. I always have to make sure the key is in the off position. Alternative would be a new ignition switch.

I had a problem with the battery going dead after some days too. Culprit was previous damage to the rear body of the car. This caused the trunk lid to not line up enough when closed. The interior trunk light switch would keep the light on all the time. Never could get the switch to work properly with the previous body damage so I removed the trunk light bulb. Problem solved.
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:11 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you can start the car within seconds of turning it off but you can't start it days later it can only be an electrical drain...as everyone is already saying. I assume you checked that to make sure. If you can't start it after turning it off then it could be your battery connections(normally on the positive side) that has developed a corroded film where it goes on the battery terminal.

Just adding to what Charlie said, I had the same issue, if you can remove the key without having to push in the black button you would still have a drain if you have all the accessories off.
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:36 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the desolate one View Post
My question to you all is, what could be making every battery that I put in that car drain within a week of non usage?
And why would a fully charged car battery DRAIN EMPTY if the car has not been driven for 5 to 7 days? !
i've had this same issues for years and never been able to figure it out or find an electrical shop willing to track down the drain. given i do have a lot more electrical equipment on the car that is not stock, it still would be great to figure out what drains the battery.

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Originally Posted by white90dx View Post
Yup, it sounds like it is time to break out the multimeter and look for the hidden power drain.
for those of us less experienced with tracing power drains, any suggestions on common places to start for this car?
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white90dx View Post
Yup, it sounds like it is time to break out the multimeter and look for the hidden power drain.

Any chance you aren't turning the key to the full off position when you remove the key? (you should have to push the black button above the key to turn it to the off position) With worn keys you can remove the key in any ignition position...

-Charlie
You guys are GREAT! Thanks to all who suggested the worn key and the black button! My key is so worn down that I can take it out of the ignition in virtually any position. Also, I do not even REMEMBER the last time I used the black button to turn the ignition all the way off! For at LEAST year, I have been simply turning the key as far as it will go, then snatching it out, not using the black button. WOW! Problem solved literally since the last time I logged on! I've put a total of about 3 new batteries in it over the past year, plus bought that Schumacher, all because I forgot that I needed to be pressing the black button to turn the ignition all the way off. At least now I know what is going on and how to rectify it. This site is the LICK!


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Old 08-26-2011, 11:28 AM   #9 (permalink)
3s-gte in a Camry?!?
 
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If you want to keep yourself in check, get new keys cut at the dealer using your VIN - you won't be able to pull them out without the button (unless your lock cylinder is very worn too).

Of course, that let me to the opposite problem... I hadn't driven an automatic for many years when I got my Alltrac, and sometimes I forget to put it in Park when I stop - and they keys won't come out no matter what you do (as long as it is a fresh new key). Imagine how stupid I felt when I figured out (after like 10 minutes) what I was doing wrong.

-Charlie
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Old 08-26-2011, 01:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white90dx View Post
If you want to keep yourself in check, get new keys cut at the dealer using your VIN - you won't be able to pull them out without the button (unless your lock cylinder is very worn too).

Of course, that let me to the opposite problem... I hadn't driven an automatic for many years when I got my Alltrac, and sometimes I forget to put it in Park when I stop - and they keys won't come out no matter what you do (as long as it is a fresh new key). Imagine how stupid I felt when I figured out (after like 10 minutes) what I was doing wrong.

-Charlie
Thanks for the advice. I'll have to do that when I get some times. I'll write a note to myself to do that. I'd rather have a new cut key and not be able to pull it out unless using the black button. That way, I don't "forget" about it, like I've done over the past year with my super worn out key.
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