tune up problem - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Studetrucknut · 09-10-2011, 07:22 PM

Just bought a rust free, never been in snow, 89 V6 Camry with 139K miles. It had the ware pump,timing belt and can seals replaced at 138K. Now here is the problem: We test drove the car about 30 miles before we bought it in both town and interstate and everything ran and looked great. After we got it home at high rpms it sounded like metal on metal rapping in the motor but it would not do it at low or medium rpms plus a little white smoke out hte exhaust. Changed the cap,rotor, spark pugs and wires. The cap and rotor was very pitted and corroded. spark plugs: 1 and 3 - nice brown, 5 brown and wet, 2 clean and wet, and 4 and 6 black carbon. Now it it is blowing a lot of white smoke out the exhaust but the rapping noise is gone. also the idle is erratic now. (I recheck the firing order and fit on the spark plug wires and still rough idle). I'm at wits end now any ideas would be a great help.

'88 All-Trac · 09-10-2011, 09:10 PM

Head gasket will cause the white smoke... Is usually caused by water or coolant in the cylinders.

As far as the rapping noise, not sure what that could be. Perhaps a bearing going bad. How is your oil looking?

Studetrucknut · 09-10-2011, 09:32 PM

oil is clean and clear(not milky), and I haven't shown any loss of antifreeze- still full

71Corolla · 09-10-2011, 10:43 PM

When you say "2 clean and wet", wet with what? Have you done a compression test?

Studetrucknut · 09-11-2011, 08:49 AM

I haven't done a compression test yet. By clean and wet - no carbon on plug and smelled like gasoline, plugs 2 and 6 were firing intermediately

white90dx · 09-12-2011, 11:16 AM

Is the smoke white (water) or bluish-white (oil)? It sometimes hard to tell the difference from the driver's seat. Also, water (errr... coolant) would have a sickly sweet smell and the oil would smell like burnt oil.

I would guess you have a couple bad cylinders - rings, bearings or headgasket, depending on the specific problem. A compression test will go a long way in telling you what's up. A bore scope would be good too, but those aren't around most home shops.

-Charlie

Studetrucknut · 09-12-2011, 08:32 PM

Well I got a compression tester and I have no compression in the #2 cylinder(both dry and wet test) and 160 lb in #4 and 180 in #6. did not check 1,3,or 5 after discovering #2's problem. also before I did the compression test I hooked up a timing light and the timing was 5 degrees before TDC. don't know if that is correct, the manual I have doesn't say. Thanks for the help. I'll be popping the head off this weekend. On a side note it seems once you get 1 toyota others keep coming - a 90 Corrolla followed me home today.

white90dx · 09-13-2011, 12:51 PM

Base timing should be at 10*BTDC, but you have to check with the motor warm and the T and E1 connections in the diagnostics box jumpered, otherwise you will get a false reading. That info is on the emissions sticker under the hood.

Hopefully the bad compression is due to something stuck in a valve and not a bad piston... let us know what you find!

-Charlie

Studetrucknut · 10-02-2011, 03:30 PM

Well finally I got the motor out of the car and tore it apart- removing the camshaft gear was a pain. I made a special tool to get them lose. All that work and found that the #2 connecting rod broke and tore up the crank and cylinder wall. Looking for a new engine for it, the body and interior is in excellent shape so i think it will be worth to get it going again. On a side note my Studebakers are a whole lot easier and cheaper to work on.

dem2757 · 10-02-2011, 09:20 PM

i dont even wanna know how that rod snapped. was the engine shaking at all since there was no compression?

Studetrucknut · 10-03-2011, 10:26 AM

All the boy said was that it started ticking. the motor ran and there was a slight vibration just like it was off time a little. we drove it into the garage think it was just a blown headgasket. It was plus a little more

white90dx · 10-03-2011, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dem2757

i dont even wanna know how that rod snapped. was the engine shaking at all since there was no compression?

Well, the 2vz is known for bad bearings... So, spun bearing, high RPM, snap. I'm surprised the rod didn't go through the block or something...

-Charlie

Studetrucknut · 10-03-2011, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white90dx

Well, the 2vz is known for bad bearings... So, spun bearing, high RPM, snap. I'm surprised the rod didn't go through the block or something...

-Charlie

I found a 90 2VZFE motor with 140K on it, Do you think it would be wise to put new bearings in it before I install it. I was planning to replace the timing belt and water pump before the install

dem2757 · 10-03-2011, 04:33 PM

really? my 293700 mile 2vz begs to differ

white90dx · 10-03-2011, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dem2757

really? my 293700 mile 2vz begs to differ

The exception that proves the rule.

Really though, I have seen many 2vz's die from bad bearings.

Just run the motor as is (well, aside from the new water pump/timing belt and crank/cam seals). Consider using 10w40 to help with any possible large bearing clearances.

-Charlie