Smoke from Under Hood and No Power Steering

[jefe]

Today I noticed smoke coming from under the hood when I stopped. It looked like it was coming from behind the intake manifold, and I thought maybe it was some spilled oil buring off, but it kept smoking. I was worried maybe it was something bad so I limped home at 30 mph.

When I was almost there the steering started squealing when I turned the wheel, and I eventually lost power steering and the wheel got really hard to turn.

91 Camry 3sfe automatic with 305K miles.


Really appreciate any help here.

[84Cressida]

Sounds like your power steering leaked all out and was starting to smoke due to the heat.

[jefe]

Originally Posted by 84Cressida

Sounds like your power steering leaked all out and was starting to smoke due to the heat.

You're absolutely right, Thanks!

Funny...after limping home last night I saw a puddle of red on the floor of the parking garage not too far from where I might have stopped and thought..."Look's like someone's leaking transmission fluid."

Now to track down the leak...

Next question 2 questions:

1. Did I do any damage to the power steering system by driving it till it started squealing and gave out?

2. My tools and workspace are about an hours drive from my apartment. If I find the leak, can I JB Weld it or something so I can drive out to where my tools are?

Thanks.

[84Cressida]

It really depends on whether the power steering pumped got burned out or not. You use less power steering at speed and the pump doesn't have to work as hard. If there was residual fluid left in the system I think you'll be fine. I once drove from Chico, CA to Red Bluff, CA at like 5:30 AM in my Cressida, which had a slow P/S leak at the time, and was pretty close to empty when I set off. I was stupid to not check it before I left, but I was hanging with my gf the entire night and it was basically a screw it moment because I was tired and wanted to go home to sleep . The pump was fine when I eventually went to top off the reservoir, and there was no damage otherwise, so I think you'll be fine.

I could smell power steering fluid home on that trip and could feel it somewhat that the p/s wasn't acting normal and could hear the "moaning". As for limping it back to where your tools are, depending on how bad the leak is, you could just top off and just drive it there. I wouldn't do any finicky welds to it, because the high pressure hoses are not something to weld up.

[Doctor J]

You may want to cut the PS belt and drive it without PS.You will have to use more efforts on the steering wheel at low speed, but at least the pump will not lock up while driving.

[jefe]

Originally Posted by Doctor J

You may want to cut the PS belt and drive it without PS.You will have to use more efforts on the steering wheel at low speed, but at least the pump will not lock up while driving.

Looks kinda difficult to replace that belt, is it?

On the upside I found the leak. Need to look through my manual (which is out with my tools!) before I can tell you where it is though.

[atobe]

lower the alternator by it's tensioner so you can get that belt out. there should be enough room for you to slide out the belt side ways down by the car's body. then take out the PS pump belt the tensioner's in the back. then remove that belt also.

[jefe]

Originally Posted by atobe

lower the alternator by it's tensioner so you can get that belt out. there should be enough room for you to slide out the belt side ways down by the car's body. then take out the PS pump belt the tensioner's in the back. then remove that belt also.

Thanks, that was really helpful! I just was able to get the belt off in the parking garage. I could barely loosen the PS pump tensioner by getting to it from underneath. Without having the car up on ramps, it took some contortions. Let me know if you have any suggestions for getting a better angle on it. I am going to drive it out to where I have my tools and a place to work on it.

I'll try to describe the leak: If you are in front of the car, the steering wheel goes down to what I think is the rack. Anyway as you look down at it, on the left (passenger side), there are 2 small metal tubes (similar in appearance to brake tubes) coming out. One of these (the one closer to the top and front) is leaking. I have no idea how to get to it, but hopefully the service manual will say.

I'd appreciate any advice.

[Doctor J]

Can you snap a picture of it with a cellphone or equivalent?

[jefe]

OK, here is an update – I followed the instructions in the manual. One of the tubes on the steering gear housing was leaking. I couldn’t get it off without pulling the entire housing out and in doing so ran into more problems that I desperately need some help with. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this!…

1. When I was trying to remove the lower crossmember, there was 1 bolt that goes into the lower suspension arm shaft that just keeps spinning without coming out (on the left of the picture below). You cannot get to the nut on the other side. So, I tried to remove the lower suspension arm shaft (see page FA-59 of the manual) and the same thing happened with the middle bolt…just spinning and spinning, but not coming out. I tried to hammer a pry bar (you can see the marks between the left and middle bolts), but it won’t come out. How do I fix this?




2. One of the front bolts for the center member sheared off. I am guessing I need to drill then have a tap with reversed threads to get it out. Any product recommendations for this?




3. The Universal joint for the steering is pictured below. One of the black rubber washers broke free, so I am guessing I should replace this Universal Joint?




4. I damaged the boots on the tie rod ends hammering the “pickle fork” in to separate the ball joint. I assume I can get replacement boots? Also I notice the bolt for the joint spins freely and there is no head to grab to hold it from spinning. How do you get the castle nut back on tight when replacing it when the bolt is spinning free?



5. The leak was from one of the tubes shown detached here:

I am planning on taking the other one off and replacing both. Any reason I should replace the whole steering gear housing (rack?) instead?


6. I had to remove the Engine Rear Mount. I also have access to another mount. The black rubber inside looks beat up. I am assuming I should replace these. Can you just replace the rubber or do you have to replace the metal bracket and axle going through it too?




7. The high pressure and return line that go into the steering gear housing rack are as old and beat up as the rest of the car but still work. Plus they look tough to replace and route. The return is a rubber hose with a metal insert toward the end. Should I maybe just replace this insert and leave the rest?



8. The high pressure and return lines were really tough to get off. The manual calls for 33 ft-lbs torque on them. There is no way I can get a torque wrench in there; too tight. I barely got the nuts on the hoses off without stripping them. OK to get them as tight as I can and then just make sure they are not leaking?


Keep in mind this car has 305K miles and mostly original parts. Driven hard. It took me a day and a half to get this far so I want to fix whatever I should while I have it apart (aside from replacing the whole entire car!)

[white90dx]

Wow, lots of things to do there...

1. You can pry down on the crossmember while working the bolt with an impact gun to probably get it off, but that doesn't solve the real problem. You will probably have to cut in there to get a replacement weld-nut put in there. You will probably have to have that done by a professional...

2. Careful drilling with a left-hand drill bit (well, many, small to large) may take it out on its own. Spray it down with PB Blaster to loosen the rust while you figure out what do to here.

3. If it now has any play in it (other than normal universal joint rotation, of course), you should replace it.

4. I've had better luck with a puller instead of a pickle fork to get tie rods out. If there isn't too much rust, you can even just use an old nut and hammer... (not necessarily recommended). When re-assembling, it won't spin. Once the tapered section is fitted in place, it will hold it from spinning.

5. Its hard to tell what else could be wrong with the rack. If the boots on either end are torn and have been for any length of time, get a rebuilt rack to re-install...

6. I don't see any obvious cracks, but its hard to tell from the picture. If there are any visible cracks in the main section of the mount, replace it.

7. not sure

8. Sounds like a good plan. Clean everything up down there as much as you can so you can tell if the new parts are leaking after installation.

All those pictures make me glad I live in Southern California... My 320k mile Camry had effectively no rust on it (well, none of my Camrys had rust, actually...). Good luck!

-Charlie

[jefe]

Thanks Charlie. Is there any way I can e-mail you or PM you? I kind of want to step back and get some "big picture" advice on this car. If need be I can post a new thread, but I'd prefer to egt a few selected opinions if possible...