1st & 2nd Generation (1983–1986 & 1987-1991)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1983-1986 & 1987-1991.
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Just finished doing the brakes all around. I replaced the rotors and brake pads up in the front. Greased the 2 bolts that hold the carrier to the caliper (hope I got that terminology correct). I also applied anti squeal to the back of the new brake pads and let it set up for at least 10 mins before I placed the metal covers on the back of pads. Then installed them and tested. The front works fine.
Now, for the rears, the rotors still look like they have a lot of life on them (this car only has 77k original miles on it). So, I replaced just the pads with new Toyota OEM ones. I noticed that in the rears there are 2 metal plates, anti-squeak plates, on the inner pad and 1 metal plate on the outer pad per each side. I also only have 1 bolt as the top connection is like a slide pin system. I greased both the top slide pin and the lower bottom bolt. I also applied the anti squeal to the back of all the pads, let them set up for 10 minutes and then applied those metal plates. Installed the 4 new brake pads and went for a test drive. All seemed good.
Well, today when driving I notice a squeal-squeak from the rears. Especially if I gradually brake, come to a stop. Not as bad when braking quicker.
Have I missed something in regard to greasing a part? Or could it be those inner 2 metal plates that are creating the noise? If so, should I eliminate 1 of those plates and which one (one is solid, the other is slotted). The rotors looked smooth, clean but should I have had them turned? Just curious.
Any help-advice in regard to the noise would be great. Thanks so much.
Mahalo,
glen
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
The new Toyota brake pads did not come with shims (I guess I got the terminology wrong, as I called them the metal plates). I figured I could reuse the original "shims" that came on the car and were attached to the original brake pads that I was replacing.
Should I not use these shims? Or should I get new ones?
Sounds like you got cheap pads. Your procedure sounds good. I generally use just a bit of grease between each layer of shim and then from there to the caliper and that's it.
The only squeaky brakes I have had recently are on my WRX, and that's because I'm missing the backing shims.
-Charlie
__________________
2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
I've been installing pads front and back for awhile now without shims, no problems with squealing or other noises. Sumitomo, Akebono, Toyota OE and others often don't come with any shims, just make sure you put brake grease where ever the pad contacts the caliper and caliper bracket/clips.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
Aloha Charlie and 71Corolla-
Thanks for your help. I would think that original Toyota pads would be good? My friend is at a Toyota dealership and gave me a good price so I went with him instead of getting something from Autozone, Kragen, Napa as they say. In fact, the pads I got from Toyota look exactly like the original ones I took off and must be at least 15+ yrs old (assuming they might have done 1 rear pad change).
So, I may try both of your suggestion about using the same brake grease I applied to the bolts and sliding pins, I may use some in between the 2 metal shims on the inner pad of each side. I had bought this anti squeak stuff that is a bright orange and worked fine for the front brakes but maybe the grease will be better.
Also, I was concerned about putting grease in that little area where the pad goes, like a tab on each side because I did not want any of that grease to go onto the rotor. But maybe I should apply just a little onto those clips that you are speaking about. Might try a q-tip or something to apply those areas. I could also eliminate one of the 2 inner pad shims and that might quite things down too.
Again, thanks for all your help.
Mahalo,
Glen
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Corolla
I've been installing pads front and back for awhile now without shims, no problems with squealing or other noises. Sumitomo, Akebono, Toyota OE and others often don't come with any shims, just make sure you put brake grease where ever the pad contacts the caliper and caliper bracket/clips.
Did you clean the brake dust off of everything? Because that can cause squealing. Toyota original pads are excellent BTW, especially for the Gen2 Camry's they last a long time and are easy on the rotors.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
Sorry I could not get back to you sooner, we had our first car show (Vintage hot rods, American Muscle) as an outreach for the senior citizen organization that I volunteer at.
So, I finally was able to get back to the rear disc brakes today! I took your advice and I did a better job of spraying the brake cleaner on the disc (both sides as best as possible), the caliper, caliper holder-brake pad holder, piston area, etc..I put a pan underneath the area and did see residue-soot so that was a great suggestion.
I also checked the pads and shims. Turns out that the anti squeak stuff did a good job of adhering the metal shims to the pads, even the pads that had 2 shims on it, were secure. So, I took your advice and put a little brake grease on the back of the metal shims of each pad. I also put a little grease on the clips that attach to the caliper holders, where the brake pads click into. Most of the clips were on snugly but one set was a little loose, so I took them off and put some grease behind them and re-attached them. I am sure on the next brake job I should replace those clips.
Lastly, I did notice something I had not caught before on the driver's side rear piston: The rubber seal was broken in an area and a small peace had come off. I am sure this is due to age. I cleaned the area as best as I could and I applied some grease there.
I put the wheels back on and took her for a spin, both freeway and street and she performed like a champ; I did not hear any noise and the brakes worked fine. I hope this continues.
I know that I need to do something about that seal around the driver's side piston. Is that hard to do? What is involved and should I get the parts from Toyota? Also, can you do the work without taking off the caliper? I ask because in the rears for my car, there is only 1 bolt at the bottom but on top is a slide pin mechanism and the length of brake hose up there is quite short so it is hard to get the caliper to slide off of the long pin. I am trying to avoid having to take the brake line off because I know that will mean I will have to bleed the brakes. So, if there is a way to repair the piston seal without taking off the brake line, would be much appreciated.
Thank you again for all your help!
mahalo,
glen
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Corolla
Did you clean the brake dust off of everything? Because that can cause squealing. Toyota original pads are excellent BTW, especially for the Gen2 Camry's they last a long time and are easy on the rotors.
You can remove the caliper without taking off the brake line. Use penetrating oil and let it soak for a bit, there is likely quite a bit of rust and crud built up in the area. Remove the spring loaded clip that goes between the line and the bracket welded to the strut, and also remove the E-clip. This will give you enough slack to be able to pull the caliper off the slide pin.
The dust seal I believe is held on by a circular spring clip, it is hidden by the rubber boot you will need to take a thin screwdriver and move the boot out of the way to see it. You should be able to get a replacement at most parts stores, or Toyota if you want.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
Aloha 71-
thanks for the heads up on the dust seal change. Once I get the old one out, should I spray the area with brake cleaner? Also, should I put any grease around the area before the new dust seal goes on? Thanks again for your help and advice on getting the caliper off!
Mahalo,
glen
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71Corolla
You can remove the caliper without taking off the brake line. Use penetrating oil and let it soak for a bit, there is likely quite a bit of rust and crud built up in the area. Remove the spring loaded clip that goes between the line and the bracket welded to the strut, and also remove the E-clip. This will give you enough slack to be able to pull the caliper off the slide pin.
The dust seal I believe is held on by a circular spring clip, it is hidden by the rubber boot you will need to take a thin screwdriver and move the boot out of the way to see it. You should be able to get a replacement at most parts stores, or Toyota if you want.
Clean the caliper with brake cleaner before you remove the seal. If you use grease, put a very small amount on the inside lip of the seal, the grease will be a dust magnet if it is exposed. Use only synthetic grease.
edit - if there is crud built up under the seal, I would remove that with a rag, you don't want to spray cleaner in there and drive the particles into the piston.
__________________ 2000 Lexus ES300 Millenium Edition1MZ-FE 64,000 Km 1993 Camry V6 LE3VZ-FE 164,000 Km SOLD but still in the family 1990 Camry LE2VZ-FE 202,000 Km 1987 Camry LE3S-FE 435,000 Km 1971 Corolla 2-door Coupe2T-C 260,000 miles
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