Diagnosis code output question

[RolentoGrenades]

So on the '91 dx 2.0, I decided to try the jumper wire/check engine blinking method to see if I could pull any codes. Here's what I did. I warmed the car up to normal operating temp, turned the car off, ran the wire from TE1 and E1 and got inside and switched to my accessory position. What happened was the light blinked continuously without ever stopping. What does this mean exactly?

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by RolentoGrenades

So on the '91 dx 2.0, I decided to try the jumper wire/check engine blinking method to see if I could pull any codes. Here's what I did. I warmed the car up to normal operating temp, turned the car off, ran the wire from TE1 and E1 and got inside and switched to my accessory position. What happened was the light blinked continuously without ever stopping. What does this mean exactly?

No codes.

Incidentally, this is the mode (with the engine running) you use to check base timing.

-Charlie

[RolentoGrenades]

Originally Posted by white90dx

No codes.

Incidentally, this is the mode (with the engine running) you use to check base timing.

-Charlie

Ah, that's a relief. Interesting about it being the mode for base timing. As you may have seen, I recently replaced my timing belt. Now it seems like the car is having trouble between second and third gear with very low accelerating power. When I give it some throttle it sort of jumps into gear and does fine, but I have to press down a little much. Wonder if it's something to do with throttle linkage or if the crank/cam gears aren't perfectly lined up?

Edit: Seems when the car is really warm after driving it for about two/three minutes, that problem lessens. Weird. Bad tranny perhaps?

[Doctor J]

Verify that your valve timing is correct (silly question but looks like cam timing is over advanced) then, accelerate to 15 mph in L ; at 15 mph shift to 2nd and see if symptom persists

[RolentoGrenades]

Originally Posted by Doctor J

Verify that your valve timing is correct (silly question but looks like cam timing is over advanced) then, accelerate to 15 mph in L ; at 15 mph shift to 2nd and see if symptom persists

I shifted to second from 15 mph, stopped at the sign, hung a right and the car had normal shifting power. If it's over advanced, it's probably only by a bit right? I think what might have happened is the belt jumped one tooth or something. I had to take it off the other day due to an oil leak because of a pesky missing bolt (which I detected AFTER the belt was already off), inserted the bolt, then put everything back together again. Before I did however, I noticed my cam mark didn't meet with my crank mark, so I put the belt on, rotated the cam mark properly, then double revolutioned the crank to meet with the cam, put the belt back on and did the normal tensioning. The car doesn't idle rough or anything and I do hear sort of hissing from around the throttle body area (have not detected exactly where, but I replaced my induction hose with a junk yard one after having my original one ripped and was simply duct taped for ages). Think maybe the induction hose is causing this?

[Doctor J]

Hissing around the throttle may indicate a vacuum leak ( a reason for reduced power)To check the cam timing a) warm up the engine and bridge TE & E1 terminals b) attach the timing light and start the enginec) if valve timing is 1 tooth retarded it will show about 5 degrees after TDCd) if valve timing is 1 tooth advanced it will show about 25 degrees BTDCEach tooth equals to 15 degrees timing shift

[RolentoGrenades]

Originally Posted by Doctor J

Hissing around the throttle may indicate a vacuum leak ( a reason for reduced power)To check the cam timing a) warm up the engine and bridge TE & E1 terminals b) attach the timing light and start the enginec) if valve timing is 1 tooth retarded it will show about 5 degrees after TDCd) if valve timing is 1 tooth advanced it will show about 25 degrees BTDCEach tooth equals to 15 degrees timing shift

You were right about my ignition timing being advanced. It was off at least four teeth! What happened was, I had no idea to retard the cam gear one tooth while tensioning and in addition, get the cam right to begin with, haha. I had my mirror tilted slightly when checking the small inspection hole and I was off big time, dude. I reset it today and all my power is back, not to mention it runs correctly in every aspect including shifting. Thanks a ton for your help on that!

I did notice a bit of coolant on the cross member (the one running from the front of the car back toward the exhaust) after operating it, so I will keep an eye on my reservoir to see if it's leaking. So far, so good. Might have been me overfilling it to begin with or a clamp being loosened (I tightened one up a bit on the water bypass). Hard to say, but the reservoir should tell the tale.