Knock knock knock.. Engine rebuild time - suggestions appreciated

[empersons]

So I took the all-trac into the snow to test out the locking center differential. It works real well . Sadly, on the way home, I heard a knock in the engine. Immediately pulled over and towed it home.

Currently have the head removed and the valves look fine. We are thinking its a rod bearing because we can here a faint noise when hand turning the crank.

Since the whole engine is coming apart, it looks like we are going to rebuild the engine and clean out the intake manifold (that thing is black inside). I am seeking advice, suggestions, anything from anyone with experience. I have zero experience in this department of internal engine repairs and very little in automotive in general.

Thanks, Eric

[Grego 92]

Just off the top of my head....

My advice is to research things to be done "while you're in there". I've found these things out late (for my 22RE) and it's really slowing down my build, but rather do it right the first time and prevent having to take things apart that I had just put back together.

Things such as seals, thermostat, gaskets (specially head gasket), bearings, sealant type (toyota fipg)...go with OEM if you can afford it.

Get the head and block cleaned and checked by a machine shop. If new rings, make sure you get the cylinders honed. If they are boring make sure your pistons/rings are for the same boring.

Have your crank checked. If they need to grind down make sure your bearings are for the same level of grinding.

When you hot tank stuff, usually they will fit whatever you can give them. So ask them how much stuff you can give them for the same price. Other things you could give them would be the valve cover, manifold, etc....I wouldn't give them my pistons though. Make sure the head bolt holes are CLEAN, chased, and free of debris, you could get false torque readings if they still have gunk.

Consider sending your fuel injectors off for cleaning and calibration.

Look at your motor mounts while it's out, good time to replace them.

Change the alternator brushes if they haven't been done.

Change the starter motor contacts if they haven't been done.

Change your belts.

Good time to change the oil pump, water pump, and fuel filter.

Don't forget to put sealant on the end cam caps if it says to do it in the manual, you'll spring a leak like I did on my 2VZ-FE.

Don't cut corners by not plasti-gaging the bearings on the crank and caps on the camshaft.

Use Assembly lube where it says to (bearings, caps, priming oil pump, etc...)

Don't RUSH...if you have another car to use, take your time

The dealer shop manual is 10x better than the haynes/chiltons manuals.

[white90dx]

Wow! That just about covers it.

I'll second the 'OEM where possible" suggestion too.

-Charlie

[empersons]

Thanks for all of that. As far as honing, is that something a machine shop should handle, or can it be done with a drill and attachment? is it even necessary if the cylinders look fine?

Im sure I will have more questions as this makes progress. Cleaning and polishing is what I will be doing this weekend. Any suggestions on removing the build up in the intake manifold? Or is that what a hot tanking is? I'm new to this, so pardon the lack of knowledge.

I do have shop manuals for the car which are Amazing!

Thanks Guys!

[Grego 92]

Yes, a machine shop does the honing. Although some guys do it at home, I wouldn't recommend it unless you have some experience. It's arguably not absolutely necessary and your machine shop should let you know if it is needed or not, and whether any boring will be needed. If you change/replace rings you need to hone no matter what. I think most would say if your tearing down that far then why wouldn't you at least hone and get new rings.

I would spend a significant amount of time finding a highly recommended machine shop in your area because their advice is going to set the path for your rebuild. Ask friends, auto shops, and dealers who they use. Out of four I've used, I will only go back to two of them.

Also, I am no expert and have limited experience, so triple check everything I say by researching and asking other people. I have only done one top-end rebuild and am currently doing a full re-build.

p.s. Don't forget to wear gloves! is that you in your album pictures with those oil/carbon/dirt covered hands? hahahaa

[empersons]

I found a shop near me that will hone the cylinders and surface the head. I have also sourced a reputable parts store for a full gasket set, rod and main bearings, thrust washers, oil pump, piston rings and head bolts. In my previous engine pull a few months ago, i replaced water pump, timing belt, harmonic balancer, oil pan, fuel filter (haven't actually replaced, still in the box in my garage), plus the seals. So it looks like I will not be spending as much, but i know not to put a cap on engine work, cause things come up.

Is it good to polish the intake and exhaust ports? Is it ok to fill the intake manifold with gasoline to clean it?

[empersons]

the guy covered in grease and all is my friend. I didnt look much different but not as bad as he did. We usually wear gloves, but they tear and the next thing you know your buried in grease and no gloves. I will be using safety glasses for this project.

[Doctor J]

Make sure that the head is machined on the mill, not on the belt sander. If head has no corrosion and the engine is not overheated, cleaning the gasket surface with odorless mineral spirit is good enough (machining is not needed) The head must be out of flat .002 inch over entire length with surfece rougness Ra 40 to 60 micro inches for OEM head gasket. Use NEW bolts for the head.
Use green plastigage to measure bearing clearances.

[Brandondavis]

If you plan on rebuilding the 3sfe your better off getting a swap especially if its all-trac.Me personally I would get a 3sgte turbo its almost a direct swap only mods needed would be changing the harness and installing the engine.Plus if its not already a 5speed id go ahead and just get a front clip of a celica its 1200 bucks on a website i found awhile back.

[empersons]

Originally Posted by Brandondavis

If you plan on rebuilding the 3sfe your better off getting a swap especially if its all-trac.Me personally I would get a 3sgte turbo its almost a direct swap only mods needed would be changing the harness and installing the engine.Plus if its not already a 5speed id go ahead and just get a front clip of a celica its 1200 bucks on a website i found awhile back.

If you can send me the link for that clip for $1200 i would consider it. I haven't found anything for less than $1800-$2000. I know there are a couple guys on here that have done the swap, seems like the challenge would be blending the wiring harness.

[Brandondavis]

http://www.flashoptions.com/product.asp?prodID=143
thats the website imsure shipping cost a bit but as far as the wiring just take it to a local shop that does shit like that its very possible to find someone to mix the harness.

[white90dx]

Just bringing a $1200 clip up to snuff is going to cost what his stock motor rebuild will cost... (gasket kit, timing belt, water pump, clutch, flywheel, etc.) What about shipping? Then you have to add on the cost of the custom work that would have to be done for the 3s-gte (wiring and piping/intercooler) and it suddenly starts to cost as much as the car is worth. Its all in what you want out of the car...

Having actually done this swap (twice!), I will just tell you up front that it will cost at least twice as much as you think it will to do it right (and reliable).

-Charlie

['88 All-Trac]

Edit: Damn, Charlie beat me again. Damned satellite internet.

And again, he's right. I'm going to do a 3SGTE swap with mine solely because reliability will not be a factor once I have the money to do it- It's a 23 year old car and isn't as nice as something I'd like to be driving in, say, 10 years. If I wanted a reliable Camry, I would do nothing more than rebuild the stock engine.

[jonsey1886]

Originally Posted by empersons

I have also sourced a reputable parts store for a full gasket set, rod and main bearings, thrust washers, oil pump, piston rings and head bolts. In my previous engine pull a few months ago, i replaced water pump, timing belt, harmonic balancer, oil pan, fuel filter (haven't actually replaced, still in the box in my garage), plus the seals. So it looks like I will not be spending as much, but i know not to put a cap on engine work, cause things come up.

Was going to suggest RockAuto.com....they have a Master rebuild kit (minus the oil pump) for about $300 USD buy the pump separately for $79 if you so choose or buy a Master kit w/ the pump for $389 (only problem for you is that it includes the timing belt & kit which you said you already did)

of course this doesn't include shipping, but for me using my ZIP code the 389 kit comes to 404+change and the cheaper (300) kit comes to 315+change.

And yes I have used them for parts before, quality is good.

[Brandondavis]

You can do it reliably which is my plan in the furred but ur looking at 5000$ in a build for high boost and another 3000-5000 for the components to do it.expensive but worth it I'm not getting rid of my Camry