Changing Plugs 2VZ-FE 1990

[jonsey1886]

As the title says I'm changing the plugs on my 1990 (Wagon) V6 2VZ-FE, because last time it was done they didn't use platinum plugs and it's been about (or just over) 30k miles. (records indicate change at about 122k miles September 2007, it's now 152k January 2012)

See here for more info on my car

So time for a change and I'm hoping when the previous owner had the work done by the shop they didn't use sub-quality (non-Toyota) Rotor, Cap, & Wires as those will be a pain to change.....any quick way I can check that without having to disassemble everything?

Second and more important question....how the DEVIL do I get to the the 3 "back" plugs on the engine?! Without breaking (or contorting) myself all to bits or having to remove the manifold back there preferably as I can't seem to figure it out and I'm hesitant to do anything without having a good idea what I'm doing. I've checked the Haynes, Chilton's books and the FSM but no specific directions.

I did a quick search but couldn't find the answer to this so if anyone can enlighten me I'd appreciate it.

Finally I'm a pizza delivery driver so I'm trying to squeeze all the gas mileage I can out of it and it was very very well maintained by the previous owner (all work done by shops). I unfortunately don't have the financial ability to continue that trend and am trying to do what I can by myself.

[zythr]

Originally Posted by jonsey1886

As the title says I'm changing the plugs on my 1990 (Wagon) V6 2VZ-FE, because last time it was done they didn't use platinum plugs and it's been about (or just over) 30k miles. (records indicate change at about 122k miles September 2007, it's now 152k January 2012)

See here for more info on my car

So time for a change and I'm hoping when the previous owner had the work done by the shop they didn't use sub-quality (non-Toyota) Rotor, Cap, & Wires as those will be a pain to change.....any quick way I can check that without having to disassemble everything?

Second and more important question....how the DEVIL do I get to the the 3 "back" plugs on the engine?! Without breaking (or contorting) myself all to bits or having to remove the manifold back there preferably as I can't seem to figure it out and I'm hesitant to do anything without having a good idea what I'm doing. I've checked the Haynes, Chilton's books and the FSM but no specific directions.

I did a quick search but couldn't find the answer to this so if anyone can enlighten me I'd appreciate it.

Finally I'm a pizza delivery driver so I'm trying to squeeze all the gas mileage I can out of it and it was very very well maintained by the previous owner (all work done by shops). I unfortunately don't have the financial ability to continue that trend and am trying to do what I can by myself.

With regards to the back plugs, I recall this being discussed in the 3rd and 4th Gen Camry Forum, you should probably check there. Both V-6s are similar with regards to trying to gain access to the back plugs. Barring that, I believe there is a tool or you can fashion one, that could reach back there to be able to remove the plugs (I can't recall the tool name). This could be why Toyota used Platinum plugs on these engines, that would not need to be replaced until 60K. (though some owners do it much earlier).

[dem2757]

universal joint, 6 inch extension, and a spark plug socket are all you need. plus the ratchets and torque wrench ;]

takes 2 hours if doing plugs, wires, and cap and rotor

[jonsey1886]

Originally Posted by dem2757

universal joint, 6 inch extension, and a spark plug socket are all you need. plus the ratchets and torque wrench ;]

takes 2 hours if doing plugs, wires, and cap and rotor

Ratchets? Wouldn't that only be 1 ratchet?

bolt the universal joint, then the extension, then the spark socket........and I'm ashamed to admit I've never owned a torque wrench, probably can borrow one from my roommate though.

Not doing wires, cap, or rotor as I DON'T have the money for Toyota stuff, and am hoping the $600 or so charged to the previous owner was proper OEM quality components.

[dem2757]

youre probably gonna need a 4 inch extension too. i think i used one. the rear cylinders are 1,3, and 5 numbered from the passenger side to drivers. for 3 and 5 i was able to use the 6 inch and a ratchet by sneaking my hand under the intake and working from the drivers side. i had the wires removed though.

for number 1: itll go ratchet, 4 inch, universal, 6 inch, socket. an easy way to do it is feed the 6 inch and socket into the tube first then connect everything else.

[white90dx]

You won't be able to get accurate torque setting from a torque wrench through a universal joint - you will have to do it carefully by hand (or remove the upper intake manifold).

If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten the spark plug until you can just feel the crush gasket finish crushing. No more. It should be easy to achieve with an 8-10" ratchet (try it on the front plugs first to get an idea what I mean).

-Charlie

['88 All-Trac]

Yar. I typically feel for just barely contact and then go 1/4 turn. It may not be the most precise method but I've never broken a plug and the crush gaskets always come out crushed just right...

But I've never been able to feel the crush gaskets well. If you can, I recommend Charlie's method.

[dem2757]

i just used the torque wrench with no issues.

its only 13-15 ft lbs so you could over tighten the plugs easier with just a ratchet. however id rather slightly over tighten than under tighten though, my coworker blew a plug out of his head and ruined his threads by an under-tightened plug.

its really not that hard to do though. definitely cheaper than getting a mechanic to do it, and the intake is only a problem with larger arms and hands.

[white90dx]

Originally Posted by dem2757

i just used the torque wrench with no issues.

How do you know there were no issues? Applying torque through a universal joint (unless it is perfectly straight) invalidates the torque measurement...

Then again, I don't use a torque wrench on my lug nuts or most places. The only place that I religiously use a torque wrench is on engine internals (cam caps, rod bolts, head bolts, etc.). Maybe you shouldn't listen to me on this one.

-Charlie

[dem2757]

i think the torque loss is minimal. like off by -2 ft lbs. i would have to test it out though. plus who knows how out of calibration my torque wrench is lol

[Grego 92]

I would change the PCV/grommet and clean the hose out if you're going to remove the plenum, can't remember if you can get to it without removing it.

[jonsey1886]

Okay I changed them and except for the rear plug closest to the driver's side (plug #6 I believe) they all took about 5-10 minutes each. The last one took about 2-3 HOURS?! As I think I started with the ratchet going to wrong way (tighter) and then had to back it out.

I was thinking about changing the fuel filter (as I have an extra new one from my old car that I bought right before it went all to hell), but couldn't get the bolts off the top or bottom so I just said screw it.

Now the car won't start for some reason, it will crank but won't turn over

Any ideas?

[dem2757]

made sure the rotor was on right?

uh look for loose connections and stuff. did you disconnect any ignition wires?

[jonsey1886]

Originally Posted by dem2757

made sure the rotor was on right?

uh look for loose connections and stuff. did you disconnect any ignition wires?

Just changed the plugs, no cap, wires or rotor were changed. The wires were removed and then reinserted 1 by 1 as each plug was swapped out.

Also I finished the last plug & reinserted the wire after the sun had set, mostly by feeling so I'll check it out in the morning.

[dem2757]

it should fire even if one plug was not getting spark. make sure your coil lead wire is on tight